Work Truck Threw a CEL. Turbocharger Underboost Condition Detected

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This code has been coming up quite a bit and I finally actually saw the gauges show 0 boost when it should definitely be putting out boost. So I know its throwing the code for a reason, I just don't know why. We took it to a "reputable" diesel mechanic (unfortunately he's a Duramax guy, so ya never know what to really trust out of what he says) and he said "Its a Ford, beat the $h!^ out of it, its the only way to treat a PSD." I'm sorry, but I've grown up with diesels all my life and if I know one thing about them its that you don't treat them like a race car.
So back to actually fixing my problem. What is the normal cause of a "Turbocharger Underboost Condition Detected" code? This truck has about 23,000 miles on it and we only use it to haul heavy loads, so it gets a workout every time its out.
 

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2006. We take really good care of this truck. It doesn't make sense why something is broken on it in less than 30k miles.
 

dsltech83

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If the truck sets alot the vanes on the turbo could be rusted up and not moving.The fuel filters could be clogged up not giving the engine enough fuel to make boost, air filter plugged up, FICM could be junk, CAC boots blown, intercooler tanks broken,there are lots of possibilities on a six liter. Does it run and start ok?
 

Newman

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Your not driving the truck enough! IMHO it should not sit for more than 2 weeks without being warmed up to normal operating temperature.
 

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I drive it 5 or 6 times a week, most of those times I'm hauling 4 or 5k pounds on the bed. Granted I don't drive it very far, hence the low mileage, most of my deliveries are within 10 miles of my work.
What I don't understand is it will boost 10psi almost all the time, but then randomly when I'm haling one of those 4 or 5k pound loads and climbing a hill, when I crest the hill and let off the throttle it'll throw that code and it wont boost the entire rest of the drive.
 

snicklas

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Have you blown an CAC boot? I would think if the veins were sticking due to rust/soot, it would overboost, not underboost. If the veins are stuck, they would be stuck in "small turbo" mode and it would spool up in a heartbeat and blow a boot, or possibly a tank off the cooler itself. I am thinking a sensor problem. What boost gauge are you reading? A stock, or "tuner" gauge? Or is it a real gauge like in your brown truck? When the CEL light is on and the boost gauge is showing 0 PSI, do you still hear the whistle? A 6.0 whistles like nothing else I heard..... I love how mine sounds.....

One thing is, there is some truth to the run it hard the D-Max guy was telling you. With the EGR and the VGT, a 6.0 dose not like to be babied. Do not thrash it, but when up to normal operating temp, at least once or twice a week you should give it a couple good heavy throttle take offs..... Not to the floor from a dead stop, but once you are rolling, roll into the throttle and go to WOT, like getting on the interstate..... I have driven mine like this since I got it, and have the factory turbo and EGR in it. They have not been cleaned.... ever. Also, do not let it idle excessively..... they do not like that either. If it does idle for over 5-10 minutes, the next couple of take-offs, get on it and blow any soot out while it is still "fresh" and has not set up.....

I would check the boost with a real gauge if this is a factory gauge... and go from there....

Also, what are yes seeing for boost numbers when it is running right, and no CEL on? I know that a 6.0 makes boost almost all the time. If you are seeing numbers like you would expect from your brown truck, all the time, something is wrong. 10-15 psi is low to middle numbers for a 6.0. On a WOT loaded acceleration you should see almost 30 psi of boost. If I remember correctly, an overboost CEL is set at something like 30 or 32 psi on a stock truck. My 03 does not have a boost/pyro yet, and I am running 100% stock and I have not set any over/under CEL's but if it was indeed not boosting, you would know it.... I would think it would either smoke like a coal truck, or de-fuel to the point it would not pull itself.

What are the specs on this truck? Auto or 6 speed, Axle ratio? Miles?

On mine, an 03, 5 speed Auto, 3.73 axles... you can FEEL the boost. If I do a WOT take-off, like I described above, it keeps the boost/fuel lower through 1st and 2nd. When it hits 3rd, it will really fuel, not rolling any coal, it may haze a bit, but you can feel the boost come up, it will set you back in the seat and just flat go until you let off the throttle. It will run like that all the was up to the speed limiter, not the governor. A 6.0 PCM/FICM will de-fuel at ~98 MPH. It will keep you in the seat until there, or you let off...
 
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This truck whistles like no other, I mean it sounds like a jet airplane under 10psi, above 10psi it sounds like a semi truck. I do have to admit it sits and idles almost every time I take it out because I sit with the truck while I wait to get unloaded.
I don't beat the snot out of it like that guy told me to but I would say I drive it how you describe, roll into the throttle to make it work a little bit. I want to feel that the turbo is actually working. The highest I've ever seen the boost gauge get to was 25-28 psi. Its the stock gauge too. My boss doesn't want to put any of that other stuff on there, I can't convince him it needs them.
It runs 10-13psi almost all the time when I'm cruising, but if I'm hauling and accelerating it will climb up there to the 25psi range. Only one time did I see it go over 30psi, that was when the light first started coming on.
 

snicklas

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OK... seeing 30 and a CEL, that would be an Overboost light. I do not think that it kill the boost if it overboosts. The 6.0 does not have a wastegate. I am not sure why it is showing 0 PSI unless it has blown a boot, or the CAC itself. Could you use a pressure tester to verify there are no leaks. IT sounds like the fitst time it overboosted, it may have blown a boot, or a tank. If so, that is why it is showing 0......
 

snicklas

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Would a clogged EGR valve cause a no boost condition. I know it causes issues, but not sure a no boost would happen. I think he blew a boot, when it overboosted, which could have been caused by a stuck unison ring in the turbo, which would allow it to overboost, the one time he saw over 30 PSI and set a CEL. Now that it is blown, or has a split, on a high boost condition, such a climbing a hill loaded, it would blow the boot, or split, or tank open, causing a low/no boost condition. This is why he still hears the whistle, but shows no boost, it is blowing out the hole instead into the intake..... This is just my hypothesis, but seems the most likely..... since he did see an overboost before this all started......
 

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The weirdest thing is that it only does the 0 boost every once in a while, it will remain a 0 boost engine until it is shut off and allowed to cool down. If say a couple hours later I take it out again it will run 10-15 even 20 psi. Then if I mash it down and try to build boost again it'll creep a little and I'll get to the speed I want and let out of the throttle and it'll go 0 boost again. I'm thinking you're right and something blew off or has a hole in it or something, but on the other hand I don't know how it could push out 10-15 or 20psi boost with a blown boot or broken IC.
 

Silver91Hatch

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The 6.0L issues with no boost.

Blown intercooler tanks
Slit CAC couplers
Bad MAP/line
Sticking EGR valve
Sticking VGT

I am betting that since its intermittent, its most likely on of the latter two. The VGT vanes get stuck and/or the unison ring cracks and binds in its "bore" and that will cause no/low boost concern.

Also if the EGR valve sticks open it will force the air out of the exhaust instaed of presurizing the intake manifold and will cause no/low boost levels.

EGR is easier to check. Pull it out and see what you have. If its carboned up or has a chunk holding it open clean it out and reinstall. If it recarbons in a short amount of time the intake manifold will need to be pulled and cleaned/soaked.

If its the turbo you can remove it and remove the rear cover. Check the unision ring for cracks or rust. If the CHRA is rust it will need to be replaced. If the unision ring is cracked will need to be replaced.

Most of the time high idle/short trip vehicles build carbon in one of the two areas listed above and will cause this concern.
 

jonathan

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it could be a vac pump my friends dads was running funny and the dealer said it was the vac pump.....just a idea.
 
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