Won't start, what's next?

Sorro71

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Long story short, I went to start the truck this morning. Turned the key to on, fuel pump started, glow plug relay kicked in and cycled, the wait to start light went out, turned to start and nothing. I checked all the connections and they seemed fine so I dismantled the top of the steering column to check the actuator. The actuator and the rack that gets driven by the key cylinder was ok and meshed correctly. While I had it apart I replaced the key cylinder. Then I regreased the components and reassembled the column. Tried to start it, still nothing. I then turned the key on again and this time bridged a wire across from the battery to the small pole on the starter relay and was able to start the engine. So somewhere between the key cylinder and the starter relay there's a problem. I've tried to trace that wire back from the relay with not a lot of luck. Can any one tell me what colour wire the start wire is at the steering column and the correct way to bypass the start in gear switch on the C6.
Thanks in advance. If you have any other ideas on what it might be, I'd sure like to hear from you
Sorry if I don't get back to you guys straight away, my time zone is about 18 hours different to the east coast of the States.
 

PapaJammie

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The start in gear wires are red/blue. There is a plug on the transmission that you can jump if you feel like that's your problem.


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FORDF250HDXLT

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sometimes when it's gets real cold out,the fender mounted solenoid/relay can stick.the first thing to try is simply tapping it lightly when you turn the key and get "nothing".
if that doesn't work,hook up a test light to the small terminal where the power is supposed to be coming from,from the key switch.when you turn the key to start,you should see the test light,light up.if it doesn't,the key switch or it's fuse/fuseable link is blown.
if it does light up,then your key switch is working ok,try tapping or replacing or jumping the solenoid (like you did) and the truck should fire and run.
manual trans owners; always use extra caution.setting e-brake and even then,standing to the side of the truck for good measure.don't get run over!:D

edit;
oh right.like already stated above.if you get no light on your test light,don't forget about the NSS.if it went bad,the test light also will not light up.
 
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jwalterus

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manual trans owners; always use extra caution.setting e-brake and even then,standing to the side of the truck for good measure.don't get run over!:D

I don't have to worry about it, I had a pushbutton I used when my ign switch crapped out, and after I fixed it I never bothered taking that out

laziness = safety :rotflmao
 

Sorro71

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Didn't get back to it today. I'll try those couple things tomorrow. 99% sure I have tried to start it in neutral.
Thanks for the advice. I'll let you know how I go;Sweet
 

icanfixall

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My guess is the neutral start switch on the side of the C6 trans.. Really nothing wrong with using the jumper wire to make it run. Just remember it MUST be removed to shut down the engine. If you use this emergency way of starting please remember to remove the jumper from the battery.
 

Sorro71

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Gone from bad to worse today. First I jumped the NSS reconnected the batteries and tried to start but still nothing, so I tried to start it by bridging across to the starter relay like before. The engine turned over but no start this time just a heap of smoke from the exhaust. I'm getting power to the GP's but when I tested them with a multimeter they are all burnt out, they were okay the other day:dunno. So I've dug a bit deeper into the dash. Being a vehicle that has been converted to right hand drive the wiring is a bit hard to follow. Has anyone had trouble with the ignition switch at the bottom of the actuator rod? which caused the truck not to start.
With the glow plugs I have found another GP controller in the dash, so I can only assume the OE controller doesn't work as intended and probably the other controller as well. Looks like I have some head scratching ahead.:frustrate :drunk:.
If any one has a wiring diagram for the truck that shows the key switch and glow plug system theycould post up it would be most appreciated.
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The other GP controller in the dash

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FORDF250HDXLT

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well,isn't the power for the glow plug relay right off the fender mounted starting solenoid (through a fuesable link for it right there too)? so i guess that only makes sense that if the solenoid is sticking or you don't have the ignition switch power,energized for whatever reason (which is easy info to get inside 30 seconds with a test light) then power isn't going to go across and power up the GPR either.
^of course this is,hoping the po run his trigger wire off it,in place of the oem.there's no way of knowing without tracing that aftermarket one you found out.no ones wiring diagram can help you with that.
if it's there in the dash,it's anyone's guess but he could of used the ignition switch as the trigger and if this switch failed,it would explain why you lost both things too.only a meter can help you now.


so it's just one problem still,most likely.now that it's too cold to start without GP's you see the truck won't start now,without also jumping power to the GPR or using some other form of starting aid.

it's always when it's freezing cold outside, these issues rear their ugly heads.you gotta love it.:D
 
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franklin2

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How would that glowplug timer work? Is there a light or something that tells you not to start it? Or did they splice into the wiring(the red/blue) and that box won't let it crank until it's finished whatever it does. If that's the case maybe that is your problem.

I don't know why so many people have an aversion to a pushbutton glowplug system. Not much different than a manual choke on a carb, or the manual fuel switching valve setup some people use. You are in control. You determine the time the glowplugs are on. I have even tried cranking it and then holding the button for the glowplugs in at the same time. You can hear the starter slow a little bit and then it fires right off.
 

Sorro71

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From what I can gather from their website it takes the place of the solid state controller. It has adjustable timing as well as adjustable pulse after start.
The only real aversion I have to manual system is that I'm not the only one that drives it. But I'm the only one who will fix it and buy parts. I've had other diesel machines with manual glow plugs and had no problem with them until someone else uses them. Even if you run them through what to do and why you do it.
So I have to make it as foolproof as I can.​
 

Sorro71

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Things were flat out before Christmas so I closed the bonnet and walked away in disgust. It was getting towards the end of January so I thought I better have a look at the damn thing again. So I pulled the instrument cluster and found that the ignition actuator had broken. I had checked it earlier and it was ok. I think I broke it after I checked it and tried doing other things before Christmas. I really had the ***** with thing back then. Anyhow I purchased a new actuator over here at over $60. You guys don't know how good you have it in USA. put all the column back together and it still wouldn't start. Ok so we started at the starter solenoid and worked our way back the neutral saftey switch at the box which I had bypassed earlier. Well there it was when some f!&king fool(namely me) bypassed the neutral switch which side did he join together for what ever reason I joined the two red and blue wires coming from the gearbox side not the solenoid side so it was never going to start :***::tool:frustrate So I twitched the wires together and you guessed it, away it went. Feeling kinda stupid right now. Gonna go drink some beer.
Thanks to all that tried to help;Sweet
 

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