Where should I send my injections pump?

[Lonesome7.3]

This is my first Cummins 12V and I have no idea where to go or where to send stuff. I think my injection pump is bad and I am hoping sending it off to be rebuilt is cheaper than buying a new one. While it is getting gone through are there any mods that can be done to give my engine some more output? Who should I send it to? What should I know and what kind of questions should I ask before I send it off?

 

[rebel_horseman]

You can get a reman pump from Pensacola Diesel fro $575: http://pensacoladiesel.com/dodge-cummins/fuel-injection-pumps.html

If you want it rebuilt and modified you can send it to Piers Diesel in WA: http://www.piersdiesel.com/ If they rebuild it ask them to put a 3200 RPM spring in it. The spring gives you another 800 RPM but folks have dynoed and said it also frees up about 30 HP or so. I know it made a world of difference in my 1st Gen. There are other mods such as a 14mm head but that isn't necessary unless you're looking for over 400 RWHP.

 

[Lonesome7.3]

Thanks!

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Injection pumps seldom fail such that the engine won't start/run.

I would exhaust ALL possibles before I blamed the pump.

The insides of the Bosch VE are simple, barely a hand-ful of parts.

 

[Lonesome7.3]

I Agree, I just want to be ready if I do have to send this thing off.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I Agree, I just want to be ready if I do have to send this thing off.

I used to think injection-pumps were all some black-magic bunch of tiny springs and B-Bs to fly out and never be seen again.

I have wasted a ton of money at the "fuel-injection shop", simply because those guys keep it a big secret just how simple a pump is.

They take your pump and go back behind closed doors and tell you to expect it to be ready in a couple weeks, after you give them a couple hundred dollars deposit.

As soon as you are gone, they run back in there and, in about fifteen minutes, have the problem fixed and the pump back together, using a ten-dollar seal-kit and maybe a two-dollar spring or such.

They then go fishing and play golf with your deposit money and let on like they are just finishing up when, two weeks later, you show up with five-hundred more dollars to pick it up.




I had a VE pump to spring a flood of fuel from the main head seal; it was throwing a stream wide as a hand-saw blade, losing gallons a minute.

I had no money and plenty of time.

I got estimates of from $600 to $1200 to reseal and recondition the pump; this with ME taking the durn thing off of the engine and then re-installing it.

Let me say now that I would much rather rebuild ten pumps than to install one on an engine.


I was pointed in the direction of a pump rebuilding video and complementary booklet, excerpts of which were shown on You-Tube, and available on E-Bay.

Fifty bucks for the DVD and fifty more for the complimentary booklet.

I took a chance and ordered both.

I'm glad I got the booklet, as there is a tool shopping list that alone is worth the fifty bucks.

I took that tool list and went to Larry's Discount and Harbor Freight and bought every single tool listed that I did not already have; I spent maybe $35 and had a shopping-cart full of stuff.

I watched that DVD a hundred times, rewinding and rewatching parts of the process over and over.

I read that booklet until the pages looked like a ten-year old copy of PentHouse in a nine-year-old boy's tree-house.


I ordered up a complete DGK-121 seal kit, in fact I ordered ten of them.

My son (his truck) and I pulled the pump off the engine, and set in on dis-assembling and repairing it.

I had every last single piece, part, and participle laid out across the surgically clean bench, soaking submerged in clean fuel to prevent this Kentucky humidity from flash-rusting the pristine polished steel parts.


The on my face was a mile wide when the engine roared to life at the first touch of the starter-button.

We didn't even "crack" any injector-lines, even though we had all six of them completely off of the engine.

I was about half-expecting for there to be at least a few drips here and there, but that pump was and still is as dry as a bone.



You can do likewise and keep most of your money in your pocket.


If you do follow this advice and do save a ton of money, you can mail me a fifty for talking you into it.

 

[Lonesome7.3]

Thanks for the information!

 

[h2odrx]

If you do follow this advice and do save a ton of money, you can mail me a fifty for talking you into it.

was this on your cummins?

 

[Lonesome7.3]

I would prefer to do it my self anyway.

 

[rebel_horseman]

Yep there is a lot of good information out there on rebuilding the VE (and pretty much everything else under the hood.) From what I've read it's not too bad, and it's better when you have the right friggin tools. Also, like was said earlier, the worst part is getting the cotton picking thing off the truck. There are 3 bolts holding the pump on; 2 are pretty easy to get to but the 3rd takes a contortionist midget with a C-shaped box end wrench to get to and once accessed you can only move the wrench about 1/16" either way before hitting the block or pump housing. It's at least a 12-pack and 3-wrench repair so that you can throw one when removing, one when installing, and still have one spare.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

was this on your cummins?

The first one we did was on my son's truck/engine.

 

[Lonesome7.3]

I watched a video made by Chrysler to train thier techs. I agree, the prpeer tools makes it look very easy to pull. Being since I plan to biuld more Cummins powered rigs, I think it would be worth buying the tools.