Whats a FIPL?

[Mike]

Moderators note: Please see the end of this thread for updated information. Do NOT rely on the below alone.



The following article was put together by Bobby aka turbo69 and covers the checking and reseting of the FIPL.
Many thanks to Bobby for contributing and we hope that someone somewhere out there benefits from this article.




Fuel Injection Pump Lever (FIPL or TPS) Check and reset procedures.

The FIPL is a fundamental part of the operating system of the E4OD transmission. It aids the Transmission Electronic Control Assembly in determining proper shift points in relation to throttle position and allows the computer to determine both WOT for downshifts and idle position for TC lock and unlock.

Resetting or replacement of the FIPL can solve many of the problematic shifting issues with the E4OD trasmission mated to the 7.3L IDI's.

Below are simplified procedures that can be used to adjust/reset the FIPL.

Hook up the negative lead of the volt meter to the battery ground and the positiove lead to the center GY/W ( grey/white wire which is the FIPL signal wire, I use a paper clip up the side of the wire in the connector. The FIPL must be attached to the wiring harness. Engine low idle speed must be set to specs prior to adjusting the FIPL.

Engine off key on........
With a warm engine, key on, engine off measure the voltage at the GY/W wire, if adjustment is required loosen either the bracket with bolts or just use the slack in the Torx screw holes. Now gently rotate the FIPL until you get some where between 1.05V and 1.1V. then tighten the torx screws or bolts which ever you loosened ensuring no movement of volt setting . Rotate the throttle lever to WOT see if you get 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V.

The FIPL mounting bracket can be moved but ensure it is centered for a good rotation. Any adjustment should be made by only rotating the FIPL. If a new FIPL is required, check tang engagement as you take off the old FIPL and then make sure that the tangs in the new FIPL engage the throttle lever properly.

The closed throttle voltage: 1.1 V, .........wide open throttle voltage: minimum of 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V.


DIESEL FIPL SENSOR INFO

DATE 1992

REASON
Early Black FIPL has High Failure Rate

RECOMMENDATION
Always replace the black colored early FIPL or any colored FIPL having 60 thousand or more miles, with the late gray colored FIPL.

PART NUMBER
F2TZ-9B989-C

 

[Big K]

setting to the values found here in this updated version will yield MUCH improvement than the values in the old article.so much so,you'll think you swapped in a fresh trans.



A/T - E40D FIPL Sensor Trouble Shooting & Adjustment

TECHNICAL BULLETIN # 186A

TRANSMISSION: E4OD

SUBJECT: FIPL troubleshooting & adjustment procedures

APPLICATION: Ford

DATE: Jan 1994

E4OD
FIPL Trouble Shooting & Adjustment Procedures (Diesel Applications Only)
Poor transmission performance and/or premature transmission failure may be caused by a defective Fuel Injection Pump Lever (FIPL) sensor, or sensor signal. The sensor is located on the Fuel Injection Pump (Figure 1) and is used to inform the Transmission Control Unit Assembly (computer) of throttle position.

Ford Motor Company recommends that the FIPL be checked or replaced every 50,000 miles. However, it is possible for a FIPL sensor to fail at less than 50,000 miles. Therefore, it is highly recommended that you install a new "upgraded" FIPL sensor when a transmission overhaul is performed on any diesel applications.

You should also be aware that early design FIPL sensors are not as desirable as late design sensors.

Another potential concern is that the wiring harness leading to the FIPL sensor may be broken or shorted to ground. Closely inspect the harness where it is routed across the top of the engine to the FIPL sensor. The natural vibration of a diesel engine can easily wear through the wiring insulation where it contacts the engine, brackets, etc.

Note The voltage specification for signal return (item 2, page 2) was incorrect on the original bulletin. Remove original # 186 from your files and replace it with this revised bulletin. # 186A.

Note For testing and adjustment information see following information.

TESTING THE FIPL SENSOR

Note During these tests the negative lead of the voltmeter MUST be connected directly to the negative battery post and the computer and FIPL harnesses must not be disconnected.



1. Wire A is reference voltage sent to the sensor from the computer ORANGE/WHITE

TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be approximately 5 volts.

2. Wire B is the ground path from the FIPL sensor to the computer BLACK/WHITE

TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be volts?? or less.

3. Wire C is the throttle opening signal sent to the computer from the FIPL sensor . TEST With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF and the throttle at idle position, voltage should be approximately 1.2 volts. With The throttle fully open, voltage should be approximately 4.5 volts. ORANGE/WHITE (CENTER WIRE)


The sweep from 1.2 volts at idle to approximately 4.5 volts at full throttle should be smooth. A meter with a snapshot or min/max capture mode is useful to catch intermittent "opens".

If the previously described range cannot be attained, FIPL adjustment can be achieved by rotating the sensor (on its bracket) one way or the other until the voltage values are satisfactory.


.................................................. ................................................

DIESEL FIPL SENSOR INFO
DATE 1992
REASON
Early Black FIPL has High Failure Rate
RECOMMENDATION
Always replace the black colored early FIPL or any colored FIPL having 60 thousand or more miles with the late gray colored FIPL.
PART NUMBER
F2TZ-9B989-C




........
end of article.
couple more things that are not included here that you need to know:
engine should be warmed up first (or i guess as long as the fast idle isn't set is all) and normal warm idle must be set to 650-700 RPM.
T-15 is the size for the small bolts.T27 for the large mounting bracket bolts.
oh,as far as test #2 there.the reason why the voltage is blank (??) is because there is non there,being that it's the ground wire of course.if you suspect a faulty ground,then you would check it for resistance i should think.
when asking for the part at an auto store,don't ask for a FIPL (fuel injection pump lever) you'll just get the deer in the headlight stare.
tell them you need a TPS (throttle positioning sensor) and their computers will find the correct part for you.

more info;
don't be concerned with the color of the FIPL/TPS you find in the stores today.if your sold one that has black plastic,this does not mean it meets the specs of the failure prone ones of yesteryear.


Last edited by FORDF250HDXLT; 12-17-2011 at 09:32 PM.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

A/T - E40D FIPL (TPS) Sensor Trouble Shooting & Adjustment (Diesel Applications Only)

A/T - E40D FIPL Sensor Trouble Shooting & Adjustment

TECHNICAL BULLETIN # 186A

TRANSMISSION: E4OD

SUBJECT: FIPL troubleshooting & adjustment procedures

APPLICATION: Ford

DATE: Jan 1994

E4OD
FIPL Trouble Shooting & Adjustment Procedures (Diesel Applications Only)
Poor transmission performance and/or premature transmission failure may be caused by a defective Fuel Injection Pump Lever (FIPL) sensor, or sensor signal. The sensor is located on the Fuel Injection Pump (Figure 1) and is used to inform the Transmission Control Unit Assembly (computer) of throttle position.

Ford Motor Company recommends that the FIPL be checked or replaced every 50,000 miles. However, it is possible for a FIPL sensor to fail at less than 50,000 miles. Therefore, it is highly recommended that you install a new "upgraded" FIPL sensor when a transmission overhaul is performed on any diesel applications.

You should also be aware that early design FIPL sensors are not as desirable as late design sensors.

Another potential concern is that the wiring harness leading to the FIPL sensor may be broken or shorted to ground. Closely inspect the harness where it is routed across the top of the engine to the FIPL sensor. The natural vibration of a diesel engine can easily wear through the wiring insulation where it contacts the engine, brackets, etc.

Note The voltage specification for signal return (item 2, page 2) was incorrect on the original bulletin. Remove original # 186 from your files and replace it with this revised bulletin. # 186A.

Note For testing and adjustment information see following information.

TESTING THE FIPL SENSOR

Note During these tests the negative lead of the voltmeter MUST be connected directly to the negative battery post and the computer and FIPL harnesses must not be disconnected.



1. Wire A is reference voltage sent to the sensor from the computer ORANGE/WHITE

TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be approximately 5 volts.

2. Wire B is the ground path from the FIPL sensor to the computer BLACK/WHITE

TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be volts?? or less.

3. Wire C is the throttle opening signal sent to the computer from the FIPL sensor . TEST With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF and the throttle at idle position, voltage should be approximately 1.2 volts. With The throttle fully open, voltage should be approximately 4.5 volts. ORANGE/WHITE (CENTER WIRE)


The sweep from 1.2 volts at idle to approximately 4.5 volts at full throttle should be smooth. A meter with a snapshot or min/max capture mode is useful to catch intermittent "opens".

If the previously described range cannot be attained, FIPL adjustment can be achieved by rotating the sensor (on its bracket) one way or the other until the voltage values are satisfactory.


.................................................. ................................................

DIESEL FIPL SENSOR INFO
DATE 1992
REASON
Early Black FIPL has High Failure Rate
RECOMMENDATION
Always replace the black colored early FIPL or any colored FIPL having 60 thousand or more miles with the late gray colored FIPL.
PART NUMBER
F2TZ-9B989-C




........
end of article.
couple more things that are not included here that you need to know:
engine should be warmed up first (or i guess as long as the fast idle isn't set is all) and normal warm idle must be set to 650-700 RPM.
T-15 is the size for the small bolts.T27 for the large mounting bracket bolts.
oh,as far as test #2 there.the reason why the voltage is blank (??) is because there is non there,being that it's the ground wire of course.if you suspect a faulty ground,then you would check it for resistance i should think.
when asking for the part at an auto store,don't ask for a FIPL (fuel injection pump lever) you'll just get the deer in the headlight stare.
tell them you need a TPS (throttle positioning sensor) and their computers will find the correct part for you.

more info;
don't be concerned with the color of the FIPL/TPS you find in the stores today.if your sold one that has black plastic,this does not mean it meets the specs of the failure prone ones of yesteryear.

the part #F2TZ-9B989-C listed on page one in the main article in post one,is updated.it's now: Motorcraft CX1448 for those in need of replacement and wish to use Motorcraft.was just looking to replace the one on log truck as part of my tune up as iv no idea how many miles are on it.

cool.other replacement parts in case needed:

Throttle Position Sensor: CX1448

Fuel Injection Pump Throttle Position Sensor Bracket: 9F878

Fuel Injection Pump Throttle Position Sensor Bracket Screw: 9F885

Fuel Injection Pump Throttle Position Sensor Bracket Locator Screw: 9F887

Fuel Injection Pump Throttle Position Sensor Screw: 9F883

Fuel Injection Pump Throttle Position Sensor Bracket Screw Washer: 9F888

source; fordparts.com

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

insert negative lead of multimeter into negative battery post.
select 20v DC.
insert positive lead of multimeter into bottom wire plug without disconnecting anything.
turn the key to RUN (engine off.) turn on meter to get aprox 5V DC.
if you don't get 5 volts,then repair this plug or the wire so you do,or all effort is worthless.

next insert positive lead of multimeter into center wire plug also without disconnecting anything.while leaving throttle linkage alone,and AFTER you already set your idle speed to 650-700 rpm (with the cold advance solenoid off,or unplugged for good measure if engine is cold) tweak your TPS so you get about 1.20 V
push your throttle linkage forward to WOT so you then get aprox 4 - 4.5 V. (i didn't snap a pic of that.oops.sorry.anyway mines a bit low actually.iv got 4.0V.i should work to see if i can bump this up a tad without effecting my idle reading some more.shifts great with 4 V though fyi.)
keep tweaking the TPS until both voltages are accurate...that's the tricky part.
while doing this with an unknown mile/old TPS,slowly push the throttle wide open,looking for any dead spots with your meter.if you find any,replace the TPS asap and adjust as needed again.........actually,you know what guys.this trans is far to expensive to mess around with.if you have an unknown aged TPS,do yourself a favor and just replace it.

if your still having issues,be sure to set your meter for OHMS.
turn the key OFF (for safety of your meter) and inspect resistance between negative terminal and the top wire plug pin.repair wire if your getting too much resistance.ideally,you want 0 ohm's.i didn't test mine,so i don't know what's common.very little if anything to account for wire length...maybe,but if you clearly see high resistance,repair the wire so you have a good clean ground to your TPS.
the article didn't specify readings,they clearly skipped that and left ?? for "voltage" which is also inaccurate no less.it's like someone didn't get a chance to finish the test and they left it out lol.but you want very low,if any resistance reading there anyway.i didn't bother because my trans downshifts and upsifts flawlessly.had i an issue,i would test the ground wire.pretty basic anyway.


iv kinda been thinking about building my whole E40D harness myself with tinned marine grade wire with all new plugs,but since everything seems ok for me still (hard to image with a 19 yr old truck though really?) that i haven't bothered yet.
anyway,make sure you have good wires for this trans,or you'll be fighting gremlins from now until a zf5 swap.
when all working correctly,a zf5 truck with all things equal,couldn't touch you off the line from 0-60.

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