VE Rotory pump removal

79gmccrewcab1t

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I am have to remove my injection pump on my 1st gen but I need to know if there is any secrets I should know prior besides a special wrench. I've heard something about setting number one cylinder at top dead but dont know if that was meant for the p pump or what.
Is there anybody who can walk me through this?
I'm not new to the auto world just most my exsperience is with gaser's and its esier to ask for help than to say oops I f$%#$& that up now what!
 

alienturtle

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Iv pulled my pump to rebuild it. The rebuild at the top of this page is mine. I hope this works for you as i dont have the right terminology so "thingy" will be used a lot

1) remove the throttle linkage and the bracket that holds it. should be 2 bolts on the intake and one down by the bottom of the pump.

2) remove any wiring from the ksb and fuel shut off switch.

3) remove that little boost elbow from the top of the afc on the pump and the head

4) im not sure but mine had a bracket that went from the block to the bottom of the pump to support it. remove that.

5) use a 7/8 wrench to loosen and take off the 6 injector lines from the injectors. you can choose to leave them on the injection pump like i did and remove as an assembly or remove the lines from the pump. Its really hard to get to the lines down on the pump so i just removed the lines with the pump.

6) remove the bolts holding down the metal line holders to the head.

7) you will have an oil fill on the front cover. You need to spin that off like a nut counterclockwise. This will allow you to access the nut that holds the pump to the gear. remove that nut.

8) Now remove the 3 nuts that holds the pump to the housing. They make a special tool (bunt U shape wrench) to get to the back one. I just took a cheap wrench put it in the vice and used some heat to bend it. Bam special tool.

9) This is where it gets tricky. There is a key way or woodrift key that is on the shaft of the pump and in the gear. The gear must be pulled off with the use of a puller. If you take a mirror and look into the timing cover you will see 2 bolt holes in the gear where the puller bolts thread into. The center of the shaft of the puller pushes on the pump shaft and separates the gear from the pump. My key came stuck on the pump when i did this. I dont know what to tell you other than prey yours does to.

10) once you use the puller to pop the gear from the pump shaft you can give the pump a good wiggle to break it free from the gasket. you will have to do some tossing and turning to get the lines clear of everything as they are attached to the pump but it does work.

NOW!! I did not put my motor at TDC. I have heard that some pumps dont have key ways as they are a tapered shaft. So you must put everything at TDC and use the plastic push pin on the back of the timing cover to lock it in TDC. On the side of the pump there is a bolt you remove and then take this keeper out and then tighten the bolt back down. This locks the shaft of the pump from turning. So when it goes back together everything is the same.

Cheers
 

alienturtle

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yeah you want to get that taken care of ASAP. You can buy a "KIT" that comes with the cover gasket and front seal as well as a tab that you bolt over the hole so the little alignment pin doesnt walk its way out. or you can buy the gasket and seal and just make a little tab yourself. To be honest with you i didnt even put a tab over mine. I just took a punch and smashed the corner of the hole in. no way for the thing to walk its way out.

;Sweet
 

alienturtle

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sweet man. My motor is sitting on the garage floor and i just pulled the head off it today. Poor trucks all torn down again lol
 
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