Ujoints, spring bushings, and more

[79jasper]

This will be long. Help where you can. Lol
So I think (well I know) I need to replace the slip yoke on my 1994 F350 4x4. The caps have been spinning in the yoke side.
I had bought the duralast ujoints from AutoZone, they don't have those anymore. Basically all moog now. I believe the moog 232 is correct. Which seems to be a 1350 series.
But I read here http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/frequently_asked_questions.html#faq_id9
"What is the difference between 1310, 1330 and 1350 Series?

The "series" of a driveshaft or universal joint is determined by the actual dimensions of the u-joint. While the front and rear u-joint can be of two different sizes the shaft is only as strong as the smaller one. The 1310 series u-joint measures approximately 3 1/4 inches wide. The 1330 and 1350 both measure approximately 3 5/8 wide. The 1310 and 1330 series can have cap diameters of 1 1/16 and/or 1 1/8 inch or a combination of both sizes. The 1350 series has a cap diameter of 1 3/16 inch and the body and journals are bigger than the 1310 or 1330. Remember 1350 is almost never found in production car driveshafts."

This is the yoke I'm looking at. http://shop.broncograveyard.com/mobile/BW-1356-Transfer-Case-Slip-Yoke/productinfo/31671/


I'm also ready to fix the stupid double cardone joint on the front shaft. The ujoints are good, it's just the rest of it. I know the spring is gone.
Is this the "whole rebuild kit?"
http://shop.broncograveyard.com/mobile/CV-Head-Ball-and-Spring-1990-96/productinfo/32485A/



In resealing the tcase halves earlier, I saw this. Would that worry you? Or is that pretty standard?

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Also going to undertake the spring bushings. I think mine are the sleeved type, not the molded.
Front

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Rear

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I've found a front hardware kit, but nothing on the rear yet.

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[laserjock]

Okay, so my truck ended up having a 1350 slip yoke for some reason. The driveshaft I bought had a 1330 slip yoke. Conversion joint later, they were mated up. Everything else was 1330 except the ******* oddball on the rear axle. It was the 1.0625 on two and 1.125" on the other two.

As for the lines on the tcase, I don't have an educated opinion but I'd be a little concerned. Those castings aren't exactly pristine though at least mine weren't. Could be casting marks or could be cracks forming.

On the spring bushings. All of them I've ever done (with one exception) had the metal sleeves. When I put the energy suspension bushings in, the sleeves were not required. Now the exception. The rear shackles. I guess I got the molded ones with the replacement kits (both of mine were bad) I pressed them out but the poly bushings wouldn't press back in (too big) so rather than turning them down, I ended up pressing the new rubber ones back in. They are new. Figured why fight it.

For hardware, I bought grade 8 bolts and nylock nuts. The fronts are 9/16" I believe and rear (front hanger) was 5/8. I ended up using the bolts that came with the shackles which were I believe m14 which is really darn close to 9/16 as well.

There's a good article somewhere here about changing the bushings. If yo can get the nut off, you can generally lever the spring to one side then the other and reach up in there with a thin cutoff wheel and cut the bolt off on either end if it won't come out of the center sleeve. Basically I use a ball joint press to push out the center and then use a hack saw to split the sleeve and an air chisel to roll it up a bit and drive it out. That's one job I really hate.

 

[79jasper]

Put the order in earlier.
Went ahead grabbed the jbg front hardware kit.
I'll use fastenal for the rear.

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[no mufflers]

aren't the springs generally 3'' in the rear? im pretty sure mine are 3''.

 

[79jasper]

I think so.
Mines a chassis cab.

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[laserjock]

That's why they are smaller. Cab and chassis has narrower springs. Hmm. All bets may be off on fitment though.

 

[79jasper]

Haha I figured.
We'll see when they get here. Lol

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[Pork_Chop50]

Energy Suspension Parts is where I found all of my suspension bushings. I took a guess with the rear shackle molded or sleeved option and got it wrong the first time. If you have the ability, undo the rear shackle to at least confirm what you have. FWIW I really noticed and liked the change in how the suspension felt after swapping to poly. More firm with less roll and the handling became more responsive. Granted these aren't sports cars, but every little bit helps.

 

[79jasper]

The site didn't help much. I tried that. Lol

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[Pork_Chop50]

Another, and no idea if this is any better, but Energy Suspension has their own main website with the cab chassis listed. I found some part numbers that didn't cross over to F-350 so it might be worth looking.

 

[79jasper]

Looked there also.
That site used to have the dimensions listed also.
All I could find were some stated "not for chassis cab," and the others didn't say.
I'm willing to bet I might have to shorten them.

But on the ford parts website, they don't differentiate different part numbers for chassis cab.
And since the chassis cab aren't as common, you can't really find people that have done it and can say if they're different.

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[Pork_Chop50]

Then I am sorry I can't be of any more help and best of luck. I do find it amazing yet obnoxious that the OBS and Bricknose don't seem that old yet finding parts can be a real needle in the haystack search for some things.

 

[79jasper]

Well the front went great. Pretty easy actually. The front hanger bushings in the frame were gone. Metal on metal. Lol
Sad to say, the rear was the wrong kit. I was able to cut them down to make some work for now, but they ain't right and I'll have to find the right ones.

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[79jasper]

So on the energy site, they do have a f-sd/cab and chassis option, but they don't list anything for the rear. Looks like the standard d60 front kit.


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