Turbos

budtoh3zo

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What can i get the most power out of Banks, ats, hyper max. I am going to be running stright piped with them so the banks exsust system i dont care about. thanks.
 

Mike

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I know which one will go the deepest into your pocketbook, but the ATS seems to be a popular upgrade for the N/A guys.
 

argve

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Choosing a turbo between the ATS and BANKS systems is pretty much the same just what options you want it to come with (like gauges and exhaust).

As you mentioned you said you are not going to be worried about the exhaust so that pretty much says to me skip the Banks unit. Now you need to look at how you want the turbo located on the engine.

Banks is centered over the intake manifold at the rear where as the ATS is off center a little towards the passengers side. I hear from the guys that have the ATS that getting to the glow plugs on that side can be a pain, I know that when I had The Enterprise that I could get to all the glow plugs pretty easy except for where the glow plug relay was relocated to but seeing as how you have a 6.9 that would not/should not be a concern. once you bring the ATS system up to the same level as the BANKS the price is the same but your not going to be interested in the exhaust because your going to do your own. So I would recommend the ATS if you want a wastegated system or Hypermax if you want a non wastegated system.

Now talking about WG vs NON WG. Biggest thing you will notice between them is that the WG turbo will pull from the instant you mash the pedal, the NON WG turbo will lag some (in my opinion it's actually quite noticeable) I wanted the power right off the line at very low rpms so WG was the way for me. I have driven a NON WG Banks (early version) on a comparable truck and noticed the lack of off the line power right away, but at speeds it pretty much felt the same.

Hypermax does not come with an exhaust system that I'm aware of it's cost is lower than either ATS or BANKS.

Now here is the differences that I seen when shopping between the ATS and BANKS

Banks comes with these extras that ATS does not

Gauges - pyro and boost
exhaust (on top of that banks comes with 3.5inch vs the 3 inch that ATS sells as an option - ATS assumes you will use the stock exhaust or fab up your own).
Transcommand (only for the 7.3's that are equipped with an E4OD) - this will not be a concern for you.

I ran my system with and without the muffler. Performance was about the same, did shave about 50 degrees off the peak EGT's when making a hard pull, but overall I did not see much improvement. I will say that after I lost the muffler she sounded better but while making a long pull up a grade with the TT strapped to the back it would sort of drone on you after about 2 hours of screaming down the highway. I looked at adding it back in more than once after taking a trip because of that reason. But around town she sounded pretty good - had a nice rap to the exhaust note at around 2100rpms - sort of like a gasser big block.
 

budtoh3zo

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would the half inch make much of a differance? I know i want wasegated. I would also run stright piped like i am now. Im also thinking of Stacks.
 

argve

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Don't know (difference between 3 - 3.5) but i can tell ya that she would shoot the exhaust stream out the tailpipe when I was getting on it, and if smaller I would expect that to be even more so. Remember you can only shove so much crap through a given size pipe before you start building up backpressure which eats away at power. So bigger will be better, but you can get a local shop to fab something up for ya I'm sure in like 4inch, I can't see a need for anything larger than that on an IDI they don't move that much air, but still quite a bit.
 

Mike

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The larger the exhaust the lower your EGTs will be.
 

Mike

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That I dont know, I am running a 5" straight pipe on my 7.3PSD that exits infront of the rear wheel. Pulling my 26' TT at 70 mph I run 1100°-1150° on the flats and will get around 1250° pulling up a grade. Unfortunately I did not take everybodies good advice and install guages before all my mods (DP,open element air intake,SCMT etc) so I dont have any solid "before" data. Theres a few pictures of the exhaust in my webshots if you click the link in my sig.
 

budtoh3zo

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I run 1200* and will hit 1400* since then i have limited to 1200* but every so often i loose track and hit 1300* so i need to get it lowered even abit.
 

Mikes91

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Yup... you're risking thermonuclear meltdown.

Best to defuel or make things cool... 1300 is H O T T - HOT!
 

budtoh3zo

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Im supprised i never melted down its hit 1450* before for about a min stright. i was mad when i heared that, last time my truck was lent out to family
 

argve

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Well you can tickle 1500+ and still be ok but you can't do it for more than a second then you best be getting it back under control. There are time limits that are your saving grace if you will, yes the gasses are reaching 1400 but the metal in there has not actually reached that temp yet - but it will very quickly - quicker than you think. So an occasional bump above the magical melting point of alum is ok but you can hang out there for long at all, then you also don't want to cool down too fast either your I'm sure you will introduce thermal shock to the parts, so ease off the go pedal a little than remove your foot and all should be well in Diesel land. But the way to be safe is NEVER REACH ABOVE 1200 on the gauge and it's no worries mate. My rule of thumb for was never get above 1200ish and I can hang out all day long at 1125ish while pulling the trailer up a hill.

Now in my goat I will slam 1500+ but only for half a second when playing, but will bring the temp down slowly until under about 800 then it's foot off completely.
 
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