Turbo and Head Gaskets

[analog]

I just picked up an older style Banks Sidewinder. It is the non-wastgated version.

I am preparing for the install, and doing some thinking about everything I want to do while the truck is down and in the garage.

I believe my head gaskets are leaking, as I get coolant under the truck, and have spotted it slowly dripping from where the head meets the block, in the back on the passenger side. I also have oil in my coolant, and replacing the oil cooler o-rings does not seem to have fixed that little problem. I haven't noticed any leak on the driver side head gasket.

Anyway, since I am putting the turbo on, I figured now would be a good time for new head gaskets, since they are probably original to the truck (146K miles).

Is this something I should buy at schucks/napa? Is a certain brand of head gasket better than another? Price isn't a major issue, since I would rather spend now, and not have to do this again for a long time. Considering the turbo will also put more strain on the gasket.

Any advice about this procedure and gotchas to look out for would be appreciated.

Oh, I was also thinking about putting the head studs on I've seen mentioned over at TDS. It seems they are beneficial for a turbo'd motor If not, what is the benefit to using them?

 

[The Warden]

I went through much the same process last summer, except I had acquired an old ATS instead of a Banks.

I went with Fel-Pro gaskets after being told that the quality was as good as Ford's without paying a small fortune. There are some who strictly only use Ford parts, though.

The big thing with the head bolts/studs is that, one way or another, you should be replacing the bolts. Some people have re-used them without issue, but I would be VERY wary of doing so on an engine that's going to be receiving a turbo. I opted to go with studs because the ARP kit was actually less expensive than buying new bolts from Ford or IH. Also, the studs are stronger, allowing you to torque to a higher number safely. IMHO, the more clamping force on these heads, the better. I don't remember the exact physics of this, but studs also naturally clamp better than bolts do.

Mel did a very good write-up on his head job and submitted it to TDS as an article, although I don't know if it's made the migration over here yet. Also, I did a write-up of my job, if you'd like to take a look. Click here for my write-up, including a comparison between the stock head bolts and the ARP studs. Unfortunately, I don't think ARP's making studs for the 7.3l yet, but I think you can get 7.3l studs from Ken at DPS.

The biggest thing I learned is that, while you can do the head job (even with adding studs!) with the engine in the truck, if you have the facilities, pulling the engine out of the truck will make your life MUCH easier. Or, you can do what towcat did and disassemble the front clip from around the engine.

Hope this helps some...if I can think of anything else to add, I'll put up another post.

Good luck!!!

 

[analog]

Thanks for the link to your site Warden! Lots of good info there. While I would like to put on studs, I just gandered at the DPS price... $675?! Holy crap! I'm not going to be pushing that much boost to justify that price. Napa sells a replacement bolts set for $61. I assume that is per head, so would need two of those kits.

Anyone have an opinion on the napa head bolts?

I'm considering pulling the motor, but that seems like a lot of work. Warden, when you did yours in the truck, it didn't appear to be too major a hassle... are your pictures leaving out all the cursing and swearing moments? Is the major hassle all the climbing around like a monkey to get to things, or is it that wrenches and sockets don't fit? I can deal with being a monkey, but get very annoyed when I can't get a wrench on a bolt.

 

[towcat]

I'm considering pulling the motor, but that seems like a lot of work. Warden, when you did yours in the truck, it didn't appear to be too major a hassle... are your pictures leaving out all the cursing and swearing moments? Is the major hassle all the climbing around like a monkey to get to things, or is it that wrenches and sockets don't fit? I can deal with being a monkey, but get very annoyed when I can't get a wrench on a bolt.

How old are you and how strong is your back? Each head weighs almost as much as a honda motor. Also, you take a pretty big gamble of screwing up the headgasket if the install is not perfect. Also, the head bolts on the passenger side are a small challenge too. Easier to pull off the radiator support and you won't hurt yourself as badly. At that point you might want to go all the way and pull the motor.

 

[analog]

How old are you and how strong is your back?

, my back is much weaker than my age should allow. That said, if I do this on the truck, I'll use my engine hoist to pull/replace the heads in a nice controlled manner. Or, I'll rig a pully system from the garage ceiling. But, I think the engine hoist should reach just fine.

 

[dave85]

Engine in truck....

, my back is much weaker than my age should allow. That said, if I do this on the truck, I'll use my engine hoist to pull/replace the heads in a nice controlled manner. Or, I'll rig a pully system from the garage ceiling. But, I think the engine hoist should reach just fine.

I did mine with a 1 ton come along and everything is fine.

Having said that, pulling the engine is better.

Dave

 

[rthomas]

i'll second the pull it vote, gives you a good opprotunity to do some other things while its out




dave, are you still moving up here?

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Had to change the HG's on the Beef awhile back and blasted a couple of bolts off in the block due to ole mother rust. Shame on that motor. Got a donor motor and then had to cheange them also after install. Was much easier pulling the motor that doing them in the engine compartment the second time around. Less worries about FUBARing the HG's
I used thee Fel-Pros's also and were reasonalby priced.

Ron

 

[Agnem]

If the shop is well equipped, doing them in the truck isn't too bad. Naturally, anything done to the motor outside the truck is easier, but I find laying under the truck (to get the motor out) to be more of a pain than crawling around on top of it. Headgasket/turbo how to is over on TDS under the Contents/6.9/7.3 tips section. It's a real pain they don't let you link from outside. I'll have to do an updated version of that article for this site.

 

[analog]

Thanks Mel, found the article. More good stuff there!

Does anyone happen to have the instruction manual for the old Banks Sidewinder non-wastegated they could send me a copy of?