the installation of transgo's E40D-HD2-D reprogramming kit (shift kit)

[FORDF250HDXLT]

the installation of transgo's E40D-HD2-D reprogramming kit (shift kit)


the instructions:

caution! this was originally written in the diesel section.the drill bit sizes i used here are for the diesel engine!!!!! be sure to use the chart i used along with the directions from transgo to find the correct size holes to start with,for your particular setup!!! consult the instructions.disregard my scribbles.

video:
TransGo Engineering Solutions

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

it all begins with a good old fashion atf bath.......ah there's nothing like some atf in the hair.ah come on,it's the shampoo of real men!
yes i have a new 4r100 pan with drain plug going in with this kit and flush.my mama didn't raise no fool.

drop that solenoid pack.don't be a sissy now.your not gunna brake it.(well ok.go real easy on unhooking that connector.remember no screw drivers!!!! press in from the front/open side you can get to,and pull up at same time.flush the **** out of it with cleaner first though.) but once the bolts and nuts are off.simply reach up there and press down on the plug while pulling down with the other hand.she'll come.it's just an o-ring.

spin them bolts out of that accumulator body.leaving the two nuts to hold 'er there for ya until your ready to drop it in your pan.

do the same with the main valve body.yeah,it's a lot.hang in there.you've almost got 'em.........whoah caution!
take note of those two bolts towards the inside you see there....yeah those ones! don't touch those or you'll wish you didn't with the upper case of the main body coming down along with a couple check balls falling out on you and likely being lost forever lol.
also watch the video,he shows you which bolt to rob temporarily from the front,to help hold up the rear.do this now also or regret it forever!!
remove all but those two bolts and the two nuts.like the others,once the shower of atf subsides a bit,go ahead and remove the two nuts and lower the main body into your pan.

bring these parts to be modified inside unless your a lucky SOB with a heated shop!

starting with the accumulator body,notice iv got the slot where noted in the directions of the accumulator body.therefore no drilling is required for mine.

flip her back over and start gutting her.starting with the 3rd piston.note the upper springs are the ones removed.the orange ones along with a white one as noted are going in,in their place(just toss the oem ones over your shoulder.you don't want them for anything. )

mod that 4th piston.same deal here.oem springs are up top (to be going in the trash) with the new orange set going in.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

ah nuts.my bad on this one! better check them instructions.i was having such a good time,i was forgetting i was taking pics.i had installed the first part of this assembly here.once installed (it was a bit of a ****** so i didn't want to pull it for the pic lmao.sorry!) i then snapped ya one.
basically though what i missed to show,was replacing that regulator valve.the oem one was a bright colored purple.you replace than with the new steel one supplied in the kit.reuse the little spring and then set that clip back in (yeah i had this all done when i remembered the cam right here.no biggie.the instructions are clear.) then simply install the springs as shown.

install blue spring as noted in step 4 of instructions.final mod of accumulator.
your adding this short blue spring where there was no spring at all currently.
(find this particular short blue spring in the same pack of the other accumulator springs.not to be confused with a blue spring in other package.)

moving on to the solenoid pack modifications.
notice the EX hole in my pack.no drilling required.see all those slots as well compared to the instructions? see how all those are able to flow atf through there.

additional.take note
this great time to clean the s pack pins.
this is the main line of communication between the trans controller and your transmission.these pins can't be over clean.take your time and make them shine.
upon reasonably,just before plugging it in,apply a nice dose of Permatex 22058 dielectric tune-up grease.

side note and pic;
check out this pic.here is a pack i pulled from my f250 (i had to replace that due to extremely corrosive pack plug that i just couldn't ever get clean.) and it doesn't have hole EX.notice how all these passages are full as well.no atf can flow up around there.that s-pack would be one that would require the modifications.
i have a transgo tugger kit installed in that truck (by trans shop during reman) when i went to replace the pack a few months ago,i didn't know to look to see if the new pack i put in required modding.come warm weather i'll take a peek and mod it if needed.
(yeah i know this ones dirty.it's junk.i pulled this out of the junk pile for ya to compare.)
this makes ya wonder, if this was the pack in the trans during a reman with the install of the tugger kit,then why wasn't it modified? the bad electrical pins should have been discovered during the reman as well too anyway,with a new pack going in at this time.it's as if this pack went without proper inspection all the way around by the trans shop unfortunately.

now it's time to figure out what you want for shifts.step it up and make 'em like a man shift.don't girl out now and go too easy ya sissy.so big or go home!
ok.seriously.do be a bit careful.you can always make the holes larger if one or more shifts are bit too girlish still.that requires draining the juice again so do consider an 4r100 pan.
2nd.for diesel .110-116. using a chart i quickly googled,and as you can see i did a little scribbling of what i found here on the sheet.
http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-drillsize.htm

i went with a 7/64 drill bit here.

3rd.i used the supplied drill bit (this is the one shown pointing to the holes in the pics.) which is for page 4.it say's it's an .081.yeah it's on the large end of things for this one,plus this old gal has 5:13's uh oh......im not scared,but probably should be lol.

4th.give me a nice firm final shift into OD too.i'll like it.i went with a 3/32 bit here.

this completes the steps i'll be doing for my diesel work truck.the parts are ready to go back in the truck once i perform the instructions on page 4 tomorrow. yes i'll have the pics for ya of course! seriously,you got worried?

stay tuned and keep it right here on channel 444 log truck as i take this E40D sissy shifting slush bucket and transform her into a crisp shifting beast.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

now is the real fun part....not!
caution!
carefully,carefully,and carefully,remove the bolt you robbed earlier to hold up the rear of the separator plate along with the two and the plate labeled "up"....while keeping your hand spread out as much as possible so you can lower the plate down and off the studs as gently and smoothly as possible.careful!!! springs,check balls and other small items such as poppets and screen can go flying if you try and rush it.careful now.careful.did i mention you should you should be careful?

next.it's time to consult the instructions to see what you need to do.
with mine,i had the hole at 90.with a hole here,it then tells you not to use balls 10 and 11 if this is case.this appears to be letting you know how it is,rather than do anything about it.as the ball 10 and 11 are not even there anyway.
so checking out the holes at the three "D" locations,i found the provided bit was the same size as all these holes on mine.so nothing required here.(yes i know,some of mine "appear" to be out of place over on one side there.this is just because a couple over there can roam from one position to the other here.follow the chart and move them if it makes you feel better.always follow the chart per year if you dropped them. i didn't disturb them.)

lastly,following the instructions and replace the spring and poppet.
tip: hold it with a good dose of petroleum jelly.
now it's ready for install.

install carefully,carefully,and more carefully.watch that everything sticking up in the air from the plate,finds it's home or.......i dunno.lol just make sure!likely it could lead to severe trans damage.best case,it just doesn't work and you need to fix it.so make sure.you'll know when they all line up correctly.
follow how you removed them.place the plate "up" back on with just the 2 bolts and the one you robbed at the other end to hold it all up.

phew! that was a ****** uh? haha.take a breather.the stressful part is over.now back to more enjoyment as the rest simply flows back together with ease.
so paying attention to line up that gear selector pin as shown,bolt up the main body.

You must be registered for see images attach

ready that cleaned up solenoid pack with those now spotless and shiny electrical pins,and pack these pins now with the Permatex 22058 dielectric tune-up grease.also lube up the o-ring with petroleum jelly.firmly and evenly,press the body up to the separator plate.it should "pop" into place.bolt it up along with the accumulator body and don't forget your new transgo accumulator plate (with those 2/3/4 shift holes you drilled out earlier.) finish bolting up all these bodies now.she's all back together and modified.

lube up the o-ring on the filter and press into the hole.making sure first,that the old o-ring came out with the old filter if your replacing it.
firmly press into position.petroleum jelly applied to the gasket also helps hold it all lined up for you as you install.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

now,your half way home to a flush.be silly not to drain that converter and just do the complete job at this time.
if your lucky,the previous owner (or yourself) already did you a solid and didn't re-install that stupid shield bolt up by the starter.if it's still there.....i feel for ya.i left mine out last time i replaced my starter on chip truck.someone already did me the favor on this truck (yeah baby!)
so simply turn out the two at the bottom and and using an extension it does get that one up on the other side even though the exhaust does look directly in the path.use a wrench if you have too.
next,caution: though it's not likely (odds are so low it's silly) go ahead and just pull the FSS off on the IP just for extra safety......oh just do it.it'll take a ya 5 seconds.
grab a 5/16 socket with 1/2 drive ratchet and turn the engine over while you keep looking for the drain on the converter.drain 'er out.go grab a cup of joe.it takes a while.

fill her up! get ready for approx 18 quarts for the 4wd version.
i only grabbed 14 quarts as shown cus i thought for sure i had like 6 left over from a case or something.i looked all around and couldn't find it.i had to run out for more.so check to see what you have on hand first lol.
if using a 4r100 pan,be sure to always ask for a 4wd filter from now on,even if you own a 2wd truck.

the small package is unrelated.it's a replacement tach sensor.the large box below is the 4r100 pan part #.
these are "4wd" depth and require a "4wd" filter asked at stores from now on.don't try and explain what you did unless you want to shoot the breeze for a while and confuse the counter person lmao.
for me nothing changed anyway so nothing to remember.my chip truck is a 4wd anyway,and the f-super all use the 4wd trans (due to the parking brake.)
for you 2wd guys,don't forget "4wd" from now on if you use this pan.

torque specs:
pan: 10-12 ft lbs.
valve bodies and pack: 80 - 100 Inch lbs


took her for a little test run............much better.she doesn't have the nice solid lockup like chip truck with the front pump mods of course,but im not pulling a trans for that.not in the cold anyway.this is nice.real nice.shifts are "for sure there" while normal driving,unlike before "did that upshift? i missed it?" and "yup i feel ya baby,lets go to work" when feeding her some oil.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

if you want to mod the pump.you'll need to pull the trans to install these parts.
(it turns out this pump was worn and needed to be replaced.i replaced it with an updated high volume "F5" '95-97 pump latter on.however the instructions are still valid.)

listen! you must first pull the filter in order for the pump to pull out.do NOT pry on the case to try and pry the pump out!!!! you will render your trans case useless if you snap that thin section!!!!
use proper tools.look up you tube on how to remove it.tip; if you are careful you can place a screwdriver across the valve bodies and then pry against the pump and the short screw driver.not putting pressure on that little case section......but im not advising that either!!!! use extreme caution!!!!! understand what your doing,or please pay someone to have it done for you.you are responsible for your trans.don't break it!!!!

listen! make sure the trans is standing on it's tail end or else parts will fall out from behind the pump and they are extremely difficult to place back in!!!
(yes.i in case your wondering,i did learn this one that hard way.........wow.hours spent lining parts up! it's no fun guys! think about the hardest puzzle you've ever done then multiply it by infinity lol.)


back to page 1 of the transgo instructions;

remove bolts;

split the pump;

note no hole to plug;

out with the old boost valve and springs (bottom) and in with the new valve and springs etc (top)

new yellow converter regulator spring;

drilled hole out with 3/32 bit;

clean filings;

replaced seal and bolted pump back up;

if you do opt to drop the trans (or do this while changing a bad seal/converter etc) you'll be greatly rewarded for your efforts.now when lockup occurs it's very firm and very short,crisp like another shift.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

listen! additionally make sure to update the converter drain back valve while your right here.the oem is plastic and can melt!! if this happens....bye bye OD planetary!!! replace it with a metal one as shown:

extract it:

plastic one removed (insure the bore is clean....spotlessly clean )

here's the updated one ready to go in:

coat the new cap with red lock tite.set the cap .050 below flush and stake the sides 2-3 places.

i installed a whole superior k066 kit which came with the updated valve.if your pump bushing is in good shape and your a trans novice like i am.you may not want to get into trouble by attempting that one yourself though lol (oh the memories!!!!! 5 trans pulls!!!) do however at the very least update this valve.you can buy it separately from sonnax:
http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2067

 

[tbrumm]

Awesome! Thanks for documenting that install! This has been needed for a long time!

 

[whitehorse]

Hey this is similar to the j mod for the 4r70w trans in my crown Vic...drilling 2 holes a tad bigger for more fluid flow...since working at ford I have learned that ford transmissions have a lower pressure than the rest....A big THANKS for this write up...

 

[trackspeeder]

Quick note on the valve body, accumulator body, and solenoid pack. When tightening the bolts and screws, always start at the center and work your way out. 80-100 inch pounds as noted in this thread.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

Quick note on the valve body, accumulator body, and solenoid pack. When tightening the bolts and screws, always start at the center and work your way out. 80-100 inch pounds as noted in this thread.

those tips reminded me to add warnings about making sure the trans is tipped up and not to pry the pump out on that thin section in front of the trans in post #6.
either of those can lead to a bad day lol.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

Superior's E40D Pump Correction Package #K062

listen! if you want to install this with transgo's tugger or reprogramming kits.note that transgo's pump instructions tell you to plug the hole if this mod has been done.this would be talking about superiors step #5A.
it is up to you to figure out if these mods can work in unison and which kit you feel overrides the other. (then send me a pm letting me know what you found out cus i did both fully lmao! please also note,it's a well used trans in log truck,so "if it works on the cheap,it's good enough for now" mentally was used.)

here i will show you the issue with the bushing supplied in the kit and how to go one step further with taking tips from yet one other kit to finally make a flawless setup.so what is this pump mod kit and what dose it do:

E40D Pump Correction Package (Superior K062 )

Problem Solver

This Problem Solver deals with these problems: Helps to eliminate reoccurring Code 62 in the computer. Full time lube and increased cooler flow. Bushing walking and spinning. Replacement of O.E. plastic drain back valve, with metal valve. Improves pump durability.

1. Code 62 is a very common problem that relates to converter clutch slippage. When Code 62 is set, the transmission will begin to shift hard and late. The OD cancel light will begin to flash. Superior supplies the parts and modifications needed to fix this problem. 2. The custom bushing is designed with a knurled outer surface to help eliminate spinning and walking. The bushing also has the drain back notch pre-cut. 3. The O.E. drain back valve can melt in the pump. We replace this valve with a metal valve set-up.

Note to purchasing: Ask for Superior part number K062.

http://www.superior-transmission.com/Product_Page.cfm?ID=58

ATSG showing the issue with the plastic valve that is addressed with this kit:

note:
pics of drill/bit are angled only to help show where to drill (so i was out of the way when snapping the pics.) when actually drilling,drill as straight as possible.

the instructions:

step 2:
using a straight edge,to help you make sure you drill into the bore:

step 3:

step 4:

listen! did you install a transgo kit? they'll tell you to plug this hole if it's been modified.are you sure?
step 5A:

step 5B:

step 5C:

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

listen! here you will see the issue of simply following the instructions with installing the bushing,and staking it.this staking on the seam is what you do NOT want to do.


step 5D:

step 5D/pic underside/drilled through.
Caution! STOP HERE:

step 6:

step 7:

oops.i forgot to enlarge the drain back hole.i'll have to do so carefully now with the bushing in.should have done it before pressing it in,but shouldn't be an issue.edit; it was an issue.had to back out bushing a bit,clean then reapply thread locker.best not to forget.
notice the nice update here.a nice large built in drain back hole into the bushing for superior lube flow (pun intended lol.)
listen! before installing the bushing.properly hone it out to accept the new oversize bushing.all replacement bushings are oversize and must be honed! if you simply press in the new bushing,the converter will be too tight and it will spin the bushing! (yes i learned the hard way.)
listen! before installing the bushing.drill this hole out as it states at the beginning of step #7 to 5/16 (like not shown here.) as per instructions!!
Listen!! follow the steps in the next post before installing bushing!!! there is a vital step not included with instructions!!

see one problem superior made here? they made it so,that the place where you need to stake a side,is right on their connection.poor planning on their part as this slightly knocks the bushing out of round a tad right here.use caution not to get too crazy staking this particular spot too much or else converter may not slide into pump!
test fit pump on converter before placing pump into trans!!!
Listen!! follow the steps in the next post before installing bushing!!! there is a vital step not included with instructions!! do NOT do this:

listen! ^ see their aftermarket bushing lined up with an oem stake hole? do not stake bushing here as shown!!!!!!


now get out the brake kleen/carb cleaner and spray,spray,spray and then spray clean some more.no metal shavings/filings to be left.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

here is how i found to remedy the aftermarket bushings (and it's not just with the supplied superior brand either.so pay attention!)
i got looking at yet another kit.this is or was (not sure it's still around?) by TCI. but you don't need to buy anything! just follow their wisdom.

so they not only found a great method as to not use the stake point by making your own but in also making stake points on the other side to boot.how can beat having a properly honed out bushing bore so the converter slides in easy when it's placed in,then on top of this,so that the bushing can never slide forward blocking the drain back hole and causing your pump to press out the fluid all over the street? it's perfect so here is what you do to make this a true "superior" kit!

now you can see i took the proper steps here (i deserved pulling the trans over and over for not reading and applying what i read.don't be like me! lol.) to hone the pump for the bushing and you can see here now where i enlarged the hole to 5/16 as well...yeah that really opens her up!

listen! now notice!!! i did not stake on the bushing seam.notice i made my own stake pocket right next to the seam/oem stake pocket and staked here instead.keeping two stake points in the front.lower left = oem stake point & aftermarket bushing seam line up.
lower right = self made stake point (all it takes is a little drill bit,drilling at a little angle to make a pocket.don't get carried away.it just helps insure bushing can't spin is all.

now apply this same wisdom to the other side.the rear, so that the bushing can't walk forward! it's so simplistic.yet genius!
listen! lift the two gears up and out and insure you place them back in the same way!
listen! if you bought a used pump like i did.the seller may have split the pump to inspect the gears.do NOT trust that they are inserted correctly! (ask me how i know! trans pull # i can't remember lol! look it up if you need to!)

now get out the brake kleen/carb cleaner and spray,spray,spray and then spray clean some more.no metal shavings/filings to be left.



this right here is the key to success on installing the superior k062 kit........and i ought to know. it took me 5 trans pulls to finally get it all right.with this info you'll only need 1 pull and install.
don't forget at least these for the job;
new converter bolts.
new pump seal kit.one sold on ebay comes with whole kit with a spare pump bushing,pump gasket,and o-ring and the updated viton seal.
new pump bolt washers.
new stator shaft bushing.
be sure to research what else you may need on hand to complete the job to cut down on down time with the truck.
good luck.