STERLING REAR HUB?????

Clb

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***
so I get ready to bust loose the rear hub to do brakes and repack the bearings.....
Crack open the book to get the seal pn. *** it shows a puller to remove the hub after using the GAY *** TOOL to remove the spindle nutz. gay
I repeat *** really I hope this is a typo.
thanx in advance cb
did I mention this is gay?
phawk!
 

79jasper

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Huh?
If it's a 10.25 full floater, you do have to have the hub nut socket, but nothing else special.

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laserjock

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It can stick on there a bit. Pry bar and rubber hammer took mine off fairly easily.
 

Clb

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Thanx guys.
So its just a sticking seal type deal and nut planned engineering stupidly?!

Thats easy
 

laserjock

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They are packed and oiled according to the manual. Packed when installed and then oil from the diff makes it's way over. I think it's mainly to stop dry starts.
 

Shawn MacAnanny

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I'd think oil only would allow them to run cooler. That's weird I've never heard of packed and oiled bearings
 

Macrobb

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Well, I guess this is why they rarely fail, unless you get water into the gear oil...

I have to say that the Sterling 10.25 fully floating rear ends are /really/ easy to work on. Nothing oddball as far as I can tell.

However... Make sure you install a Scotseal rear axle seal instead of the stock 'wiper' seal, especially if you have any pitting or leaking issues.
 

typ4

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Use lubriplate 105 lube. Mixes with oil and protects while doing so. I always jack up each side after filling diff just to be sure.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Hey Macrobb, where do you get the Scotseal seals? I have a leaking problem that I can't seem to fix.
 

laserjock

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This one I think.

You must be registered for see images attach


I think I got mine from rock auto in a sizable order to spread shipping cost.
 

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