Starter- repair or replace

reklund

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I've got healthy batteries and brand new cables, and still am experiencing intermittent slow cranking. I guess it's time to either service or replace the original starter on my truck.

There's a local place that claims to be able to rebuild and service the original Mitsubishi starter. I've never dealt with them, but I like the idea of keeping the original if possible.

If I have to replace it, what is the best option? I do NOT a want a Napa/Autozone cheapie that will require yearly replacement. Anyone bought one from a IH dealer? Power Master? DB electrical? Mean Green? Is there another option I'm missing?

Ryan
 

mu2bdriver

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My DB has been working well for over a year. I'd buy one again. I was looking for a rebuild place in my region and for domestic components I could have 3 spares sitting on a shelf.
 

DaveBen

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Check your cable ends for corrosion. This will cause slow cranking even with brand new batteries.
 

Hydro-idi

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Got mine from Azone. Apparently there's two different styles that works for these trucks. They handed me one that had the housing over the flywheel gear. Went to start up truck and it wouldn't even turn it over. Didn't have enough juice to turn over a newly rebuilt 6.9.
I went back to return starter, so they immediately hooked it up to their test machine & it passed, claiming nothing was wrong with it.
Long story short, I got another starter that does not have the metal housing over flywheel gear. Think it's a Mitsubishi starter and it works awesome.
You will notice two different styles in the link I have attached.
http://m.autozone.com/batteries-sta...-1-6-9l-mfi-diesel-ohv/5795_48989_0?location=
 

Kelster

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I have 2 trucks with 7.3's - one with an OEM starter and the other with a High Torque Starter and the difference is 'amazing'. The HT starter spins the motor much faster and starts (begrudgingly) without being plugged in at -15C!! I would highly recommend going with the High Torque version.
 

icanfixall

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The gear reduction type starters can and will spin the engine so fast we can't count the rpm. I run a mom & pop rebuilt mitsubishi gear reduction and it really is the best I can find/ Rus aka typ4 knows of a gear reduction that is even better than what I posted bout but I think it has only 2 bolts holding to to the engine. Not sure about the bolts and never seen or used it so can't tell you buy it or pass it by.. But russ knows what he is talking about just the same.
 

typ4

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I have 20 or so DB starters in service. 2 on my own trucks. No issues so far. And the Mitsu is rebuildable. I just chose to go new .
 

reklund

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I have 20 or so DB starters in service. 2 on my own trucks. No issues so far. And the Mitsu is rebuildable. I just chose to go new .
You just getting the one from Amazon that's under $100? I like that option as there's no core so I can keep the original around and rebuild at my leisure.
 

Macrobb

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I've used both the Mitsubishi and Denso type units. Both work just fine if they are in good shape.

If you are tight on money, pull the starter apart and fix it. Clean everything, and you may need a set of brushes. Generally, that's all it takes, and it's a quick(if dirty) process.

Also, I've been using two bolts on all my starters for a few years now. I can't /stand/ that 3rd bolt which is near impossible to remove, so I just leave it out.

I haven't had a starter fall out yet, so...

Plus, remember that the bolts only just position the starter. The torque of cranking is taken up by the 'nose' of the starter sliding into the hole in the steel adapter plate.
 

IDIoit

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I've used both the Mitsubishi and Denso type units. Both work just fine if they are in good shape.

If you are tight on money, pull the starter apart and fix it. Clean everything, and you may need a set of brushes. Generally, that's all it takes, and it's a quick(if dirty) process.

Also, I've been using two bolts on all my starters for a few years now. I can't /stand/ that 3rd bolt which is near impossible to remove, so I just leave it out.

I haven't had a starter fall out yet, so...

Plus, remember that the bolts only just position the starter. The torque of cranking is taken up by the 'nose' of the starter sliding into the hole in the steel adapter plate.

this is another area where the powermaster rocks.
myself, I prefer to have all the bolts that are intended to be used, used.
with the PM, you have a lot more room inbetween the starter and the block to put a 13mil short socket, a swivel, and a 6" extension in, making it super easy.
 

reklund

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I rolled the dice on a new DB Electric starter from Amazon. I took a few minutes to install it last night. Holy crap! I either didn't realize how slow the old one had become or this new one is badass. No core charge, so someday I'll rebuild the original maybe. Either way for $100 I'm happy!

Granted it's not cold here in Henderson, but it used to groan slowly as it cranked over first thing in the morning. Now I can't let go of the key fast enough.

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