Smoking Sea Foam

[Billy]

Hey thanks for the response. I started with fliters (air and fuel) bought out the sea foam shelf at my local auto store (clerk was really eyeballing me with all that sea foam.............)

Started her up and I blocked out the sun for 3 hours in my neighborhhood.......after that a giant hole in the atmosphere opened up above Minnesota and I got a great tan for Christmas...then green peace showed up and for a human chain around my bus so I couldn't get in....I am not sure what smelled worse the sea foam burning or the body oder coming off all those hippies.........

any way they finally left when they heard George Bush was desecrating a pine tree with Christmas lights and then referred to Christ as the reason for Christmas....that really got them angry and they left to get a job so they could buy tickets to france....

Thanks for the advice - I love diesels but don't know what I am doing.

 

[Mike]

Lemme just drop a hint since you stated you dont know alot about diesels. First things first here, head to NAPA and buy some ''coolant test strips'' to be sure you have the proper amount of anti cavitation sauce in your cooling system or else having us help you get all this smoke and sputtering cleared up wont do much good when your cylinders are taking on water. If you have an IH dealer or big rig truck shop nearby they will know what you need for testing supplies too. What you need to recharge with is DCA-4

 

[geonc]

Billy,

I suppose I should have warned you about that smoke

I suppose the real question is.........did it help any? You WILL need to drive it and get it to operating temp in order for the Sea Foam to do it's job.

How is it starting?
DIS linky for the fuel return kit...HIGHLY reccomended .

There are "O" rings in the return caps and if deteriorated/broken can cause the fuel to drain back and make starting difficult.
ALSO DO NOT grind on the starter form more than 15/20 seconds at a time with a 1 minute cool down or else you can burn it QUICK like!

Have you tested the glow plugs? IDI's WILL not start with out them worth a ****!



95_Stroker is right on about the coolant test strips.
Our diesels are voulnerable to something called cavitation---
errosion/pinholeing of the cyl walls...USUALLY the rear most cyls.

The additive costs around US$7 a bottle and is added to the coolant, not just the expansion tank.

Ford P/N FW-15 or FW-16, Fleetguard P/N DCA4; that needs to be maintained in the coolant. Generally this means installing 8 to 10 oz of the additive to the cooling system every 15000 miles. Another method is to monitor the cooling system with Fleetguard's DCA4 test kit P/N CC2602 or CC2602A. This measures the level of DCA4 in the system, and then you add the amount as required. The cooling system should be drained (and flushed if you live in an area with especially alkaline water) and refilled with a fresh 50/50 mix of coolant/water and one pint of the additive for every two gallons of coolant/water at 30,000 miles. Use only a low-silicate ethylene glycol-based coolant. Ford does not recommend using propylene glycol coolants in any of their vehicles. · Ford or Motorcraft Premium Antifreeze · Motorcraft Premium Gold Antifreeze (does not require SCA/DCA)
· Texaco Antifreeze/Coolant
· Texaco Antifreeze/Coolant Pre-diluted 50/50
· Zerex 5/100 (white bottle) Antifreeze/Coolant
· Zerex Ready To Use Antifreeze/Coolant (premixed 50/50 with de-mineralized water)
· Zerex Heavy Duty Pre-charged Formula
· Shellzone Premium Quality Antifreeze
· Fleetguard Complete EG--pre-charged at 1.5 units/gallon DCA4
Also available premixed 50/50 with water with the same DCA4 level · Pyroil Heavy-Duty Antifreeze/Coolant--Low Silicate
· Fleet Charge Antifreeze/Coolant--pre-charged with Pencool

WTMI...... and clear as mudd?




An alternative answer to your coolant additives is CAT EXTENDED LIFE COOLANT. This is a premixed coolant for all engines with cavitations problems. Just flush out other coolant. Takes approx 5 1/2 gals @ approx $6.00 per gal. All the info is under CATERPILLAR'S WEB SITE www.cat.com Check with any Heavy Equipment or Road Truck dealer, most carry. This coolant is good for 300,000 miles do not add water or additives.

John Deer, Rotella, and Fleetguard also offer extended life coolants.

Hope this helps..........
GEO

 

[Billy]

Can't Believe it.

Well I have to admit....though I tried it, I did not think it would help. BUT IT DID!!

I always thought those additves on the shelf were a bunch of bunk. Never bought any of them. After adding the sea foam and fuel condition...WOW, huge difference in power and smoke emmision. I never would have believed it. It worked so good I went out and bought more and put it in my 95 Gmc 6.5 turbo because it made me such a believer. Thanks for the direction, its great to have these forums.

Met I guy locally that works out of a quansit hut in his back yard with a sign hanging from it that says DIESEL DANS. He does injectors and pumps only. Rebuilds them in his shed. Asked him to do a compression test, check the glow plugs and CHANGE the injectors since they have 200,000 miles on them. He comes highly recommended but is not fast.

I also tested and checked the coolant, all is good and I am not missing any.

Another question - Are there turbo kit add on conversion for the 94 7.3 idi??? I would like to add on more horses for towing, would a turbo help that?? Suggestions??

Love my Gmc 6.5 turbo, but had a devasting crank break at 180,000. ruined my engine and TRANNY!! had it fixed though with a used replacement and all is well.

Thanks again!

Billy

 

[Mike]

Three names. plug them into your search engine;

BANKS

ATS

HYPERMAX


All have turbo kits for the normally aspirated IDI 7.3. Banks is spendy, ATS seems to be a popular kit with the IDI guys.

Mike

 

[geonc]

If I recall, you have a pass bus/cut away conversion?
Turbo's on vans require some SERIOUS heat shielding at the dog house area.

If you are seriously gonna get the IP/nozzles rebuilt, you can SAFELY turn up the pump to possibly help out as opposed to shelling big$$$$ out to turbo a 200k mi+ eng.

You WILL need a pyrometer to adj the pump and to drive by.

Glad to hear of your success

 

[Billy]

7.3 idi SHUTTLE BUS project

Thanks one more time for the direction. (looked up ATS right away)

My project is a 94 E350 7.3IDI non turbo Shuttle bus. Picked it up on Ebay and drove it to MN from Baltimore airport last Saturday.

Got it cheap, the unit has 200,000 miles, but supposedly has a 30,000 remanufactured block from Ford. It has 6 new tires, new black paint, inside looks better than my living room in the house, all oak trim black leather couches and kickin stereo system, carpeted.

Front in is real loose, engine smokes and is hard to start, but is getting better now. I am going to get the injectors replaced, if the compression is good and it is really a reman. block. Engine seems strong. I would love to put a custom exhaust on it with a big semi looking vertical pipe up the side........

The turbo is spendy, but this is a long term plan to have this vehicle, and I need it to tow a 14 foot tandem trailer 70 to 75 miles and hour down the road. If the motor turns out to be solid that might work. I am still worried about the axel...4.10 no limited slip.....rpms are pretty high at the vehicles top speed now of 65......hmmmm....

Thanks!!!!!!!

Bill

 

[Alwaysreadyrob]

Do you plan to put an inner cooler on that beast ?
It sounds plush like it came from a casino or better.

 

[Clb]

You know this is a 14 year old thread right?

 

[Alwaysreadyrob]

I do now lol

 

[DrCharles]

Well, I'd like to know if he's still driving it, did he turbo it, etc.

 

[Thewespaul]

Since he was only active for a month, I doubt you’ll ever know

 

[Oledirtypearl86]

Lol someone call him biiiiiiiiiillllllllllllllllly.

 

[79jasper]

Still a lurker.
As well as geonc.
Some guys just quit posting, but still visit.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[Trevtron]

Lemme just drop a hint since you stated you dont know alot about diesels. First things first here, head to NAPA and buy some ''coolant test strips'' to be sure you have the proper amount of anti cavitation sauce in your cooling system or else having us help you get all this smoke and sputtering cleared up wont do much good when your cylinders are taking on water. If you have an IH dealer or big rig truck shop nearby they will know what you need for testing supplies too. What you need to recharge with is DCA-4

Part # 4106