Save your Clutch

[L.Wilkinson]

For us gear rowers, clutch wear and tear can take different forms. For mine, the original stock pressure plate developed fractures on a couple of the release fingers on the large dished spring disc within the assembly, resulting in a replacement. The actual clutch facings had no visible wear patterns, and the pressure plate and flywheel both looked close to original. The symptoms were a dragging disc, and difficulting in getting into gear.
I have always "double clutched" when changing gears, perhaps partly a force of habit from driving large trucks, but also because it does allow the ZF syncro's to last longer, especially on downshifting. So, I figured all that pedal pushing might have encouraged some premature metal fatigue, and it probably doesn't help the fragile clutch linkage either.
My solution to that I call a "Half a double clutch", others may have a similar shift. Simply, you allow the engine load state to approach coasting by manipulation of the throttle pedal such that you can gently slip the gearshift into neutral position without it binding within the tranny on the syncro shift collars. Then while in neutral, you raise or lower the rpm's to match the speed of the gear you will be entering into. One quick depression of the clutch pedal as you slip her into gear ensures the snycro's don't take any guff. Thus you have the benifit of the double clutch program with half the wear taking place.
I know some here will attest to no use of the clutch period, but if your snycro's are in good shape, hitting the gate spot on can be hard to feel.
That's it, nothing too earth shattering. Pretty slow here right now, everyone over on the other site sifting through the multitudious forum choices?
Lorne

 

[Pacific]

I float my transmission for most of the down shifts because the syncros in my ZF are shot. I also up shift floating too depending conditions.

I will raise the rpms for downshifts and use the clutch especially for 3rd because 3rd gear syncros are pretty much non existant.

I don't dare double shift I don't think the slave or master cylinder would last long they are so cheaply built and a ****** to replace when they do wear out.

I don't know if its common in ZFs for 3 and reverse for syncro problems but its the two gears that grind.

I'am happy with the LUK SMF and clutch so far its been 2 and a bit years now and not one problem. I never had it slip yet with a empty or loaded truck driving forward or backing up steep driveways. I have been in 8-10" deep mud with 8000lb loads on the deck of my truck the clutch or transmission has ever let me down.

I think the biggest thing with the ZF is keep checking the oil level on a regular basis and change the fluid if its smelling or looking funny.

 

[Agnem]

I've always shifted in a manner that is designed to maximize clutch life. I've put 260,000 miles on a Ford Ranger that I never touched the drive train on. Most of my forays into the bell housings have been to address TOB issues on the T-19 and the DMF for the ZF. The input shaft galling problem on the T-19 is testimony to the design flaws considering the life I've gotten out of other vehicles clutch assemblies. I've never replaced a disc or presure plate because I wore one out.

 

[towcat]

I don't know if its common in ZFs for 3 and reverse for syncro problems but its the two gears that grind.

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newsflash Mr. supeRTrucker.......there are no syncros in reverse gear. If you can float foward, reverse should be a no-brainer. Oh BTW, if you got a grinding 3rd, its you. 4th is the problem gear since its the furthermost foward on the cluster pack and if the trans has wear in the imput shaft bearings, the play would make 4th the grinder.

 

[Diezel_Cowboy]

Originally posted by L.Wilkinson
For us gear rowers, clutch wear and tear can take different forms. For mine, the original stock pressure plate developed fractures on a couple of the release fingers on the large dished spring disc within the assembly, resulting in a replacement. The actual clutch facings had no visible wear patterns, and the pressure plate and flywheel both looked close to original. The symptoms were a dragging disc, and difficulting in getting into gear.
I have always "double clutched" when changing gears, perhaps partly a force of habit from driving large trucks, but also because it does allow the ZF syncro's to last longer, especially on downshifting. So, I figured all that pedal pushing might have encouraged some premature metal fatigue, and it probably doesn't help the fragile clutch linkage either.
My solution to that I call a "Half a double clutch", others may have a similar shift. Simply, you allow the engine load state to approach coasting by manipulation of the throttle pedal such that you can gently slip the gearshift into neutral position without it binding within the tranny on the syncro shift collars. Then while in neutral, you raise or lower the rpm's to match the speed of the gear you will be entering into. One quick depression of the clutch pedal as you slip her into gear ensures the snycro's don't take any guff. Thus you have the benifit of the double clutch program with half the wear taking place.
I know some here will attest to no use of the clutch period, but if your snycro's are in good shape, hitting the gate spot on can be hard to feel.
That's it, nothing too earth shattering. Pretty slow here right now, everyone over on the other site sifting through the multitudious forum choices?
Lorne

There is no need to double clutch these trucks nor will it help prolong the clutch..........if you think about it there is more wear and tear on the clutch pedal assembly and clutch by pushing it in twice the amount necessary.

Here is an idea...........use it like it was made to be used, and use it to shift (dont shift with out the clutch) and all the drive components will last longer!

You guys think too hard!

 

[L.Wilkinson]

Okay Diesel Cowboy, point taken Ouch!
Each to their own, I'm sure there are all kind of mysterious ways to prolong the life of a rig, one of the strangest I ever saw was an old trucker who discretely spin a 360 before entering his rig. I generally try to stick to stuff that works.
In any case, perhaps what I should have titled that post could have been "Save your snycro's". The clutch part goes without saying. So sure, the grindless transition is handled by the tranny, but if you've ever sat beside someone pushing the ZF to get from 3rd back into 2nd without an rpm match, and its like that tranny's "Singing the blues" A syncro is like a quart of milk, take your time, or chug it down. Who wants to overhaul their ZF?
That's my take, enough said, later.

 

[Diezel_Cowboy]

Originally posted by L.Wilkinson
Okay Diesel Cowboy, point taken Ouch!
Each to their own, I'm sure there are all kind of mysterious ways to prolong the life of a rig, one of the strangest I ever saw was an old trucker who discretely spin a 360 before entering his rig. I generally try to stick to stuff that works.
In any case, perhaps what I should have titled that post could have been "Save your snycro's". The clutch part goes without saying. So sure, the grindless transition is handled by the tranny, but if you've ever sat beside someone pushing the ZF to get from 3rd back into 2nd without an rpm match, and its like that tranny's "Singing the blues" A syncro is like a quart of milk, take your time, or chug it down. Who wants to overhaul their ZF?
That's my take, enough said, later.

Well my experience has been that the connection on my truck where the master cylinder connects to the clutch pedal arm is a poorly engineered component of my truck. It wore out on my truck and my fathers. When I found the idea i fixed it myself. I dont know how everyone elses is but if anybody is interested i could actually make a tech article on how i fixed it right.
Anyway point is the linkage and pedal assembly bushings wore out before the tranny or clutch!

 

[Dieselmaster]

If your fix uses a hiem joint in place of where the bushing goes then I think you should do the article... or if you don't know what I am even talking about I can send pics....

Your right that the bushing wears out quick and causes all sorts of pedal slop... My buddy has a 94 and we fixed the problem permanently..

 

[Diezel_Cowboy]

Originally posted by Dieselmaster
If your fix uses a hiem joint in place of where the bushing goes then I think you should do the article... or if you don't know what I am even talking about I can send pics....

Your right that the bushing wears out quick and causes all sorts of pedal slop... My buddy has a 94 and we fixed the problem permanently..

Dieselmaster, Seems that you know exactally what i am talking about! I'll see what i can do about the article.......I really didnt take pics of the installation process but i can take a pic of the parts and take a pic of the finished installation. It makes the clutch pedal assembly indestructable compared to the factory set up! I got the idea from a kit someone was selling on ebay. He wanted $40 for it though and i knew i could make one cheaper.

I picked up a "heim joint" at my local tractor supply.....they had them in stock, then i modified the joint by adding a set screw to the female shaft part to hold it on the rod.
The hardest thing about the install was cutting the end of the master cylinder rod off with a mini hacksaw......it would have been easy with a dremmel tool. After the install the clutch pedal worked so much smoother it felt like i was driving a different truck!

 

[Dieselmaster]

Exactly what I was talking about....

Same thing... got the idea from the ebay guy....

I used a cutoff tool ... hacksaw would have taken all day...

My buddies truck had a problem with 3rd... you would have to DC it or else it would grind..

Now like you said... it felt like a whole different truck afterwords...

 

[L.Wilkinson]

Diezel_Cowboy, you have a point, the $40.00 (or cheaper in your case) clutch linkage repair does overshadow a worn ZF sporting limp syncro's which would cost $____.00 to repair.
-Deadhorse

 

[LUCKY_LARUE60]

Can someone tell me what size the heim joint should be as hole sizes........... Thanks......... Jim

 

[Diezel_Cowboy]

Originally posted by L.Wilkinson
Diezel_Cowboy, you have a point, the $40.00 (or cheaper in your case) clutch linkage repair does overshadow a worn ZF sporting limp syncro's which would cost $____.00 to repair.
-Deadhorse

Considering that the ZF is still running just fine after 11 years of use (my truck is 11yrs old) YES the $40 is more than i have put into the tranny!

 

[L.Wilkinson]

Hold on a second that's better. Yup, top marks for the inovative clutch linkage mod!
Now, rather than say my trannys in better shape and that my clutch linkage is still like new in its original form after 15 years, I would rather take my hat off to you, or in your case the cowboy hat.
N'uff said

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

I am at that stage of matching rpms to ground speed while shifting and using the clutch. Yep 3rd and reverse are well ya know. I know it is by the wear that the linkgae is taking and all of the slop. I was going to use a small tie rod end and cut the push rod and thread it and then drill and tap the pedal for a good fit there also. But given the room to work in and how much shaft is left when the pedal is completly depressed left me to abandon that idea and go with the heim end. I don't have a shop close to me that sells them and am not sure what the I.D. would need to be for the hiem end but would also like to know along with Jim on the specs for the little goober as I need to do the mod soon before I start tearing up the guts of my already failing ZF.

Also looking to do things not by the book (just for 'ya Jim )


Ron