markwemple
Registered User
'93 F-250 4x4 non-turbo. What should I also replace "while I'm there." Also, is there a difference between a gas an a diesel tank?
Replacing rear tank. Advice requested
- Thread starter markwemple
- Start date
gandalf
Senior Member
Pull the sending unit from that rear tank and take a careful look at it. You're able to do that only is you drop the tank or if you remove the bed. Take advantage of the fact that you have the tank out.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Well if you plan leaving the bed on then you must cut loose the suction and return lines where they attach the rear frame cross rail just about where the differencial is. Then you have more slack room to reach in to remove the electricl plug and the fuel lines from the sender. Also remove the fill line from the tanks and the bed.If you have a broken suction line and the last 1/4 tank of fuel wont suck out you will need to know its going to be a balancing issue. Fuel will move around and make balancing the tank nearly impossible. If the suction shower head is broken just install a short 3 or 4 inch long piece of 3/8 fuel rated hose to the broken off suction line. Please read up on tank removal in this forum.Many have done this job several different ways. There is a difference in gas and diesel fuel tanks.
mblaney
Full Access Member
I changed mine (box on). Not too bad of a job. I was able to reach the pickup and return lines and release them, PITA though. Would have helped to have 4" more slack! You can siphon any remaining fuel out.
If you are going to lift the box off then I would check the pick up and return lines on both tanks, and just go ahead and put a new brake line on. Easy to do with the box off and you will never have to do it again.
Oh ya, rustproof the **** out of your new tank. Beats the hell out of me why they bent the seams up to hold road crud and water.
If you are going to lift the box off then I would check the pick up and return lines on both tanks, and just go ahead and put a new brake line on. Easy to do with the box off and you will never have to do it again.
Oh ya, rustproof the **** out of your new tank. Beats the hell out of me why they bent the seams up to hold road crud and water.
Might be a good time to remove bed, wire brush & paint back half of the frame. Inspect spring hangers & brake lines??? Consider / compare prices on plastic replacement tanks to avoid future corrosion issues. POR15 on inside of frame rails where the tank lives. This will be the only time it's easily accessible and it's a natural place for dirt & debris to collect.
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markwemple
Registered User
This is a plow truck and I don't have a ton of time at the moment so I'm trying to do this as quickly as possible. I'd love to pull the bed and go nuts but.... And, for some reason, I can't find bed bolts. I know, due to rust, there is a very good chance mine will be impossible to get off without cutting. Any source on new bolts (I can find superduty ones all day, though)
The "carriage bolt" design of the original bolts seems to be a problem in that very often when trying to remove, the head slips and requires a tack weld to allow removal. I replaced mine with common grade 5 hex head bolts from Tractor Supply.
Is this an "off road / non licensed" plow truck?
Is this an "off road / non licensed" plow truck?
markwemple
Registered User
On-road and licensed. I'll use it in the spring as a back up to my 03 7.3 race car tow beast. Right now, I'm moving and have a ton to do. So just replace with appropriate bolts, OK. What is the difference between diesel and gas tanks and where can I buy the in tank sending unit??
markwemple
Registered User
Where did you get that illustration. I couldn't find it on LMC. Also, what is the difference, specifically, between diesel and gas tanks?
Illustration came from Ford Parts.com
Also noticed stainless bed bolts on "Blue Oval Truck Parts" however they're not for your exact year but may work???
Not sure what or if there's a difference on the tanks. I purchased tanks and senders (minus the electric fuel pump) for a gas powered truck then changed the electrical connection (plug) on the wiring harness. I did this because at that time, diesel shower heads & sending units were difficult to find not to mention very expensive. Now it seems they're easy to locate. The method I used may not work with your truck??? If memory serves there's something "electrically" different on 92 thru 97 vs my 87........
Make sure you're in a seated position when you look up the price on those factory bed bolts!
Also noticed stainless bed bolts on "Blue Oval Truck Parts" however they're not for your exact year but may work???
Not sure what or if there's a difference on the tanks. I purchased tanks and senders (minus the electric fuel pump) for a gas powered truck then changed the electrical connection (plug) on the wiring harness. I did this because at that time, diesel shower heads & sending units were difficult to find not to mention very expensive. Now it seems they're easy to locate. The method I used may not work with your truck??? If memory serves there's something "electrically" different on 92 thru 97 vs my 87........
Make sure you're in a seated position when you look up the price on those factory bed bolts!
markwemple
Registered User
Yeah, the prices on bed bolts is exactly the reason I'm looking for an alternative. Just did an electric fuel pump on my 03 7.3. Ford was almost 700. I got one with a lifetime warantee from Advance for just over 100.
mblaney
Full Access Member
I would replace the bed bolts (well the front ones anyway) with an eye bolt or some other anchor. Stupid that trucks were ever made without in-bed tie-downs.
markwemple
Registered User
Not a bad idea. Yeah, really stupid but they'd need to be pretty strong
