RABS dump valve bypass. oem part.

tbrumm

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So, if this part were installed and the RABS valve removed, what needs to be done to "fool" the RABS module into thinking the sytem is still operating normally? Or can the RABS module simply be disconnected once the RABS valve is replaced with this part? Or does the RABS module have to still be operational so that the RABS sensor in the rear end will continue to function properly for inoput to the E4OD? I have no idea if this is all tied togther electronically or not. Won't the ABS light be on all the time? Or is as simple as pulling out the ABS light bulb? Thanks to Towcat for posting this. The RABS doesn't work all that great to begin with, and when the valve goes bad, I sure don't want to replace it.
 

heff

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What ever became of this info? My abs light came on again. I'm so over it now. So if this part keeps the light off good. If not ill reflare the brake lines add a union and bypass the janky pos myself. And pull the bulb from the dash.
 

aofarrell2

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Not trying to act stupid, but why would one want to bypass the RABS system? I've had soooo many times, especially when 2 wheeling on extremely wet ground where the RABS kicked in and saved the day... Or when towing and some idiot pulls out in front and we have to stop extremely fast without locking brakes because of the heavy load behind...
 

heff

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I want to bypass it because the pedal feel sucks when the valve is working. I've spent the past few years with a 66 ih travelall for a daily driver. I don't try to spike it down in a panic stop. This will be the second time repairing this janky abs system. Ill just use my foot to modulate the brakes wen I need to.
 

LCAM-01XA

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Not trying to act stupid, but why would one want to bypass the RABS system? I've had soooo many times, especially when 2 wheeling on extremely wet ground where the RABS kicked in and saved the day... Or when towing and some idiot pulls out in front and we have to stop extremely fast without locking brakes because of the heavy load behind...

I agree, which is why my RABS remained in place when the booster and master got swapped out for GM units. I'm absolutely loving it, and when running empty it is the only thing that stops me from swapping ends during a panic stop on wet/slippery roads. But you know what they say, to each their own.

Heff, when the ABS light comes on it's an indicator the system has detected an issue and has defaulted to full bypass state - essentially the HCU on the frame acts like a giant funky-looking straight thru union block. Which is the same thing the F-Superduty line does as well. You can replace it entirely with the F-Superduty kit, but it won't turn your light off. Unplugging the module may do it tho...
 

aofarrell2

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I agree, which is why my RABS remained in place when the booster and master got swapped out for GM units. I'm absolutely loving it, and when running empty it is the only thing that stops me from swapping ends during a panic stop on wet/slippery roads. But you know what they say, to each their own.

Heff, when the ABS light comes on it's an indicator the system has detected an issue and has defaulted to full bypass state - essentially the HCU on the frame acts like a giant funky-looking straight thru union block. Which is the same thing the F-Superduty line does as well. You can replace it entirely with the F-Superduty kit, but it won't turn your light off. Unplugging the module may do it tho...

Very true...
 

heff

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I hope I didn't come across as some know it all ass. Wasn't my intention.
Anyway I'd prefer not to bypass the unit. If a $150-$200 part doesn't really change pedal feel then I'm not too excited. But i would feel more comfortable with the working part on the truck. I know bypassing it isn't the ideal solution and I seriously doubt ill go that route. And in other news the abs light has gone out so we'll see where this issue goes
 

racin460

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F6TZ2C280-AA is the ford part # I went to ford this past week end to buy one, good news is there only $34.00, bad news they have been discontinued!!!
 

icanfixall

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Boy that sucks being out of production. I guess its time to crawl under all the F350 and 450 in the wrecking yards looking for one if I want one.. I wonder if towcat got the last one on the planet..:angel::sly
 

gandalf

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Boy that sucks being out of production. I guess its time to crawl under all the F350 and 450 in the wrecking yards looking for one if I want one.. I wonder if towcat got the last one on the planet..:angel::sly


I spoke with him yesterday about that very item. He's not parting with it. Your Pick-n-Pull plans look like the only solution.;Sweet
 

icanfixall

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Well Ken if I go there I will bring my own toilet paper.. I can't see ruining another nice work shirt and throwing away another pair of boxers.. Mine are kinda old and I like them.. Hell some of them are probably older than some of our members here... You know I will be taking some bottled water too... Your trip thru hell was an eye opener but I usually bring or buy a bottle at the cold truck parts at the wrecking yeard I frequent....
 

aofarrell2

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I hope I didn't come across as some know it all ass. Wasn't my intention.
Anyway I'd prefer not to bypass the unit. If a $150-$200 part doesn't really change pedal feel then I'm not too excited. But i would feel more comfortable with the working part on the truck. I know bypassing it isn't the ideal solution and I seriously doubt ill go that route. And in other news the abs light has gone out so we'll see where this issue goes

Nope not at all...
 

OLDBULL8

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Oldbull8 here has the principles of operation and diagnostics uploaded on his photo-hostng site. Also at least one

Don't anymore, Webpics, zapped all my stuff on there before I could transfer it. BASTURDS
 

racin460

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I just cut off the old tube nuts n flared new one on and used a connector in its place. And then remove the bulb out of the dash. Good peddle feel and no light. :sly
 

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