Project Big Red

laserjock

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Not much happened this week. Too much work work. I did get in this connector for the WIF module.

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In other news, I have identified the flanges on the exhaust brake. It's designed for 3.5" pipe. It's a male / female type. What I can't understand is why we can't have standard nomenclature. It's not even a trade size issue like pipe fittings etc. Some companies size by the pipe size. Some size by the flange diameter. Anyway, the issue I have is that my down pipe is 3". The exhaust brake is 3.5". The exhaust pipe and muffler I have are 4". I don't know what I'm going to do. I was hoping for a ready made solution for at least one side, but I haven't found it yet. I may end up ordering a new exhaust which might sort the outlet side. I guess worst case,I'll make adapters. Good weather coming up this weekend. Hopefully I'll get some stuff done.
 

laserjock

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So, I bought a power stroke down pipe from diamond Eye that I modded for my turbo. It's actually 2 pieces. Bottom joint makes the turn horizontal under the cab. There is about a foot of straight horizontal pipe before the ball connector. I figure I'll cut that section and graft it in there. It's pretty much the same spot as the BD brakes are. It would be just past the Y pipe connector on an NA setup. That's the plan anyway.
 

laserjock

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Tonight I actually tied up several little things.

Found a bigger rivet for the patch.

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Pulled it up dandy.

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Can't see the rivet real well but you can see the big scratch just fine. [emoji35]

That's done. Might give it a quick lick of paint.

Got my new throttle cable.

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Looks right.

Got the cable routed with the Heat sheathing.

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Seems to work great. Full travel. Returns right.

Got the connector on for the WIF module. Here is the original.

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And the new one.

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The green wire replaces the 4th wire which depending on where you see it is lt blue with a red chase. This one happens to be black. It's the wire that actually goes to the sensor.

Put the connector on the WTS light wire. It will just plug into controller directly now.

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Clipped the rest of the harness wires off. I think I have enough pins to put it all together now. Now I have to pull my electrical center out again and wrap it up. That will pretty much be everything out under the hood.
 
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laserjock

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It doesn't look like much, but there's a ton of work in this.

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Everything is connectorized. There's a bunch of connectors but if I need to take it apart it won't require wire cutters. I'm not super happy with all the wrapping. It's hard to wrap the tiny wire good and tight. Worst case, I'll just peel it off and loose it.

I'm ready to finish the last connector to mate to the engine harness and then it's wrap and plug. I will probably plug it all in and put the dash in and make sure everything works before I spend a lot of time wrapping the harness back up.

I'm also going to route and tie up the battery and starter cables while I'm at it. Need to be putting done stamps on things.
 

laserjock

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Holy crap she finally starts with the key again.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

:D
 

laserjock

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So more details.

I spent the day today working on finishing up the under hood wiring. I tied up the battery and starter cables.

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This looks like a complete rats nest but there is method to it.

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Now that I know stuff kinda works, I'll finish cleaning it all up.

I wrestled the dash in.

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And of course it runs and most importantly stops with the key. LOL

So I finally got her warmed up on the high idle. May not have caught it in the video but I ran it up on the high idle.

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Looked at the gauges. The volt gauge is a little whacky. I checked it at the battery posts and it's running 14.6 V at idle.

So now lots of cleaning up and then I'll keep putting it together.

I also noticed I have a massive exhaust leak in the drivers side crossover pipe to manifold connection.
 
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laserjock

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So my goal is for her to move on her own by the end of the month. Last thing I absolutely have to have is the driveshaft.

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New universal joints are ordered. Spicer non-greasables from Dennys driveshaft. They ended up being the cheapest and the fastest. Had to get the carrier bearing off to measure. Before I attempted that, I marked the shafts.

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I take a drill and put a dimple on there I'll be able see them after I clean and paint.

I've been fretting pulling this carrier bearing since I pulled the shaft out. I broke out my horrible freight bearing puller/splitter and impact gun. Tightened up on it and it stalled out. Added a little heat and...

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The coating actually looks really good on the splines. Now I can order the carrier bearing (1.57" version). That will give me all I need to put the rear drive shaft back in.
 

subway

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Are you sure you want to make it mobile before you are done? Then you will just start driving it and pushing stuff off if you are like me lol.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 

IDIoit

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Are you sure you want to make it mobile before you are done? Then you will just start driving it and pushing stuff off if you are like me lol.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

THIS,
after 1500 miles, I still don't have a rear bumper, speedo or a tach LOL
 

laserjock

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Well, the driveshaft debacle has put a damper on motion, so I'll keep going on electrical.

***

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This is why stupid people should not be allowed to touch wires. Some of the wires were just tapped together... poorly.

I grabbed the meter and started probing around. I had 8v. Huh??? There's no reason I should have 8 V anywhere. The accessories circuit works fine. After staring at the wire diagram, I started working my way back toward the source which happens to be a fusible link. Aha. So I probed the wire up next to the link wire. I started wiggling the wire and it went from 0-12-8v. Okay. I think we found the problem that started all this debotchery. So I jumped that wire and suddenly I have parking lights.

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That's a step in the right direction. Needed a new foot switch. So I decided to fix this mess.

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So much better. Foot switch is here so I can test the headlight circuit this evening. Update later.
 

IDIoit

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this is why im a firm believer in new wiring harnesses.
I cannot stand other peoples hacks.
if I hack something together I know exactly whats happened lol
 

laserjock

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And we have headlights.

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Both high and low beams. After adding a fuse, it appears I have dash lights.

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Cluster however is completely dead. Nothing. Gas gauge slowly creeps toward full so I suspect it may be a ground problem. Nothing else moves or lights up. The WTS light does work. I have 12v to what I think is the right spot on the tank selector switch harness but I can't find the damn switch or the plastic trim panel for the headlight/wiper/selector.

[emoji35][emoji35][emoji35][emoji35]

I have torn the whole garage, shed and basement apart looking for it. All the rest of it was in the cab or in a box in the shed. I don't know why this wasn't. So progress followed by extreme frustration seem to be the order of the day.
 

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