Project Big Red
- Thread starter laserjock
- Start date
yARIC008
Drives really slow
Definitely want an OEM throttle cable. The aftermarket ones are complete garbage. If you get both of them and look at them side-by-side the OEM one is so much better built it's just ridiculous. A new aftermarket one probably wouldn't even be as good as your crappy old OEM one. I would not want to risk the throttle cable sticking and making you crash into another car or a wall.
Only thing I accomplished today was spending money. I ordered a flexible metal oil drain tube $40 and a new oem throttle cable. $90. [emoji21]
Thank you Amazon. Hopefully the return line is long enough. If not amazon returns are awesome.
Thank you Amazon. Hopefully the return line is long enough. If not amazon returns are awesome.
Okay. So I got my new oil drain and proceeded to rip the turbo off which honestly went better than expected.
I left all the lines hooked up so no antifreeze or oil everywhere. I stuck my blank intake cover on and set it right on there. I will be putting a stud in the upper right hole though because I think the chances of me getting a bolt in there are slim and none. I think I have plenty of fuel. 15 minutes of basically idling and everything is nice and sooty.
So here is the drain line.
I like this so much better and it's an off the shelf part. It's the stock drain for a 6.7 cummins. Here it is installed.
Fits like a glove. Plenty of room everywhere. So now I need to take one of my valley pan adapters and turn the inner hole to the right OD for the cummins drain and we are good to go. I can put it back together for hopefully the last time.
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I left all the lines hooked up so no antifreeze or oil everywhere. I stuck my blank intake cover on and set it right on there. I will be putting a stud in the upper right hole though because I think the chances of me getting a bolt in there are slim and none. I think I have plenty of fuel. 15 minutes of basically idling and everything is nice and sooty.
So here is the drain line.
You must be registered for see images attach
I like this so much better and it's an off the shelf part. It's the stock drain for a 6.7 cummins. Here it is installed.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Fits like a glove. Plenty of room everywhere. So now I need to take one of my valley pan adapters and turn the inner hole to the right OD for the cummins drain and we are good to go. I can put it back together for hopefully the last time.
Snowmanw900
Registered User
What turbo are yiu running if you dont mind? Also, i really like your intercooler set up. What does that IC fit?
The turbo is a Garrett gt3788r ball bearing water cooled turbo. Contact Mel at conestoga diesel if you are interested. He is putting together a kit utilizing that turbo. I put this together using a Banks sidewinder kit for the exhaust plumbing.
The intercooler is a cxracing universal fit cooler several guys have used. I suspect I may have to trim the grill but I kept the AC condenser. Pipes are another universal kit with a couple odds and ends added on.
The intercooler is a cxracing universal fit cooler several guys have used. I suspect I may have to trim the grill but I kept the AC condenser. Pipes are another universal kit with a couple odds and ends added on.
Snowmanw900
Registered User
I appreciate that. My 94 engine im rebuilding and installing into my 1990 is a factory ats kit. Did you have to modify much to make the turbo work, or is it a bolt in replacment?
It was not a bolt in affair. I don't know about the factory turbo setup but there are upgrade options. R&D has options that I think are mostly bolt in. If you are interested in running this turbo, call Mel. I think he's got a hypermax upgrade and was working on a factory turbo upgrade.
To get it to fit the banks kit and not change the intake manifold, I needed a very custom adapter fro the pedestal, clearance the firewall custom intake hat, and a custom down pipe. If you search for the "introducing Moose Boost" thread, Heath did the install with a modified intake.
To get it to fit the banks kit and not change the intake manifold, I needed a very custom adapter fro the pedestal, clearance the firewall custom intake hat, and a custom down pipe. If you search for the "introducing Moose Boost" thread, Heath did the install with a modified intake.
Snowmanw900
Registered User
Sounds good. I think ill give him a buzz. Im having the heads done and im doing ARP head studs also, so i will feel better about upgrading for a little extra power
F350camper
BOOST!
Hey Mike on that new turbo drain, is it semi-flexible? It's corrugated nature seems to imply that it is. If so I might pick one up myself. My turbo drain has some hacked together funkyness going on that I should prolly sort out.
What is the apprx overall length?
What is the apprx overall length?
Yes it is semi flexible. It claims to be 12". If you look around there are a few available. I crossed the 12" to a Dorman PN 625-212 available from Amazon.
Dorman 625-212 Engine Oil Cooler Line https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DE94Z0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_xCVmW4jQqwhSO
Other lengths are available here.
https://puredieselpower.com/dodge-p...cummins-commonrail-trucks.html#/product/20677
I'm sure other places have them too.
Dorman 625-212 Engine Oil Cooler Line https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DE94Z0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_xCVmW4jQqwhSO
Other lengths are available here.
https://puredieselpower.com/dodge-p...cummins-commonrail-trucks.html#/product/20677
I'm sure other places have them too.
And I got it installed.
I straightened it a little more in the grommet after I took the picture. It's way down in there and I couldn't see it well except the picture. This is so much better. I hope it doesn't leak for some stupid reason. It was not a fun job to get it all back together.
Then I started hunting for my old crispy engine harness. Low and behold.
On closer inspection. That's a metripak connector. 4 pin. A size smaller than 280 series I'm using on my relay boxes.
I'll see if I can find one instead of trying to cut up and extract it from the harness and graft it in. Shouldn't be a problem. Probably the same size as my engine harness plug.
Then I started looking at my exhaust brake. It's military surplus for an mrap I believe. It's sized for a dt533. Can anyone tell me what kind of flanges it is. It's not a straight v- band. One side has kind of a cup, the other side a cone. It's a little over 4" to the outside of the flange.
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I straightened it a little more in the grommet after I took the picture. It's way down in there and I couldn't see it well except the picture. This is so much better. I hope it doesn't leak for some stupid reason. It was not a fun job to get it all back together.
You must be registered for see images attach
Then I started hunting for my old crispy engine harness. Low and behold.
You must be registered for see images attach
On closer inspection. That's a metripak connector. 4 pin. A size smaller than 280 series I'm using on my relay boxes.
You must be registered for see images attach
I'll see if I can find one instead of trying to cut up and extract it from the harness and graft it in. Shouldn't be a problem. Probably the same size as my engine harness plug.
Then I started looking at my exhaust brake. It's military surplus for an mrap I believe. It's sized for a dt533. Can anyone tell me what kind of flanges it is. It's not a straight v- band. One side has kind of a cup, the other side a cone. It's a little over 4" to the outside of the flange.
You must be registered for see images attach
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This might be of help http://pacbrake.com/wp-content/uploads/L2029.pdf
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