Problems with my 89 7.3idi

Martin Connor

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Guys, new to the site...joined 10 mins ago. so I just got my first IDI at a fair price thats needs some work and while I am no mechanic I am willing to get my hands dirty to fix up this old truck. For starters fuel, oil pressure, temperature guages dont work at all so im assuming the sending units are bad on each?maybe? Changed the fuel filter, injectors and return lines and got er going awsome... runs awsome like a singer sowing machine. Problem is C6 transmission was slipping in 2nd, changed the modulator valve and no more slipping but problem now is will not shift until 2500 rpms each gear and really really hard shifts so VRV right? Cant find one for sale ANYWHERE, I have vacuum on top line but none going to transmission, but im not sure if its bad or just out of adjustment, and thats a little out of my technical skills range adjusting that thing. Third problem I have a fuel/coolant leak somewhere towards the back of the engine and can not for the life of me figure out where its coming from, its dripping off the oil pan/starter on to the exhuast pipe, cant tell if it fuel or coolant. But my names martin and I would appreciate any and all advice on any of these problems, thanks in advance.
 

shawn deere

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Welcome! On the oil leak, is the valley pan on the top of the engine wet? Itll all run twards the back, could be comming from above
 

IDIoit

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before you change sending units, check the cluster for ground issues.
having more than 1 dead gauge is odd,
welcome to the site,
sounds like you got some know how, keep chugging...
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Valley pan has a drain port which dumps out just above the starter... so for the fuel/coolant leak.. start at the valley pan area. Fuel is probably coming from a return fitting or similar.

As far as the gauges not working... have you checked fuses?

Just for your info.. the stock gauges are basically dummy lights. They read on/off... not an actual value. It would be wise to get a set of real gauges for it so you know what is what.

Cant help you with the trans.. never messed with a C6
 

Martin Connor

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The top is not wet or atleast not anymore after i changed the injectors and leaky return lines i thought i solve my fuel leak issue. Ill just have to do somemore snooping around to see if i can find it. As for the gauges all fuses are there and intact the only fuse that keeps blowing is for the dash/marker lights. For the gauges where can I get those a complete set?
 

shawn deere

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The top is not wet or atleast not anymore after i changed the injectors and leaky return lines i thought i solve my fuel leak issue. Ill just have to do somemore snooping around to see if i can find it. As for the gauges all fuses are there and intact the only fuse that keeps blowing is for the dash/marker lights. For the gauges where can I get those a complete set?
Are you talking aftermarket gauges? I got mine off ebay. I have a '90 and got a quad pillar pod for a 94 and up. Had to trim the bottom, but it wasnt too hard. I went with glow shift gauges
 

IDIBRONCO

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You can adjust your VRV by taking a phillips screwdriver (I believe) and loosening the two mounting screws that hold it to the injector pump. You move it slightly forward or back. Then go drive it and see how it does. I'm sure there's a proper method to do this, but I always did it by feel. I quit when I was happy with the way it shifted. Double check that your valley pan is dry. The injector pump can leak fuel too. If the valley pan is filled with grease and other crap, it may be soaked with fuel and it's slowly dripping down even though you fixed the fuel leak.
 

Martin Connor

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Ok so I found my fuel leak...the injector lines were leaking got them tight and one problem solved, and on the vrv Ive turned it everyway but loose and nothing same result. Transmission will not shift in (D) until 2500 rpm so im thinking about doing an E4OD swap. Now on the swap how hard would that be. And what components would I have to switch to get it to work. Oh and Ive developed an electrical short somewhere with the dashlights and tail running lights. But just keep changing the fuse and gotta chase down that problem at some point. One last problem alternator is not charging and keeps killing the brand new batteries. Belt is tight, cables are clean, alternator is being rebuilt as we speak so my question is where can I find a voltage regulator to change it out at. Where is it located in the engine bay?
 

laserjock

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Voltage regulator is on the pass side inner fender. I would 3G swap rather than rebuild a 1 g. It's just better.

Look at your trailer plug wiring assuming you have one. Good spot for a short on the stop /tail light circuits. Could be anything from cab lights to dash or tail lights causing the problem. They are all on the same fuse. Might even be the headlight switch. Should pull it and check for the notorious burnt/melted wires or connector.

If you are considering an E4OD swap, I would strongly consider finding a parts truck so you have everything. 90-91 and maybe some 89's will interchange. I think E4OD was an option in 89. I know it was in 90. Being a c6 truck you will probably need a shorter rear drive shaft and a longer front. I think that's the right direction. Expect modification regardless there. Other than that cab type for the donor wouldn't matter. I would be prepared to swap wire harnesses too as I'm not sure they are the same.
 

Martin Connor

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Ive called every ford/international dealer on the east coast just about looking for a vrv and they are non existent and have been discontinued by both ford and international. So unless somebody is sitting on a few im lost as to what to do there beside a junk yard piece. And as far as the E4od swap im unsure now if i want to put that much time in it. Now I do want to turbo charge it as im converting it into a railroad highrail truck for work. But problem today was it wouldnt crank, cranked it yesterday fine, drove it around, charged the batteries up with the new ambulance package alternator, and today 65 degrees killed the batteries tryin to start it. I guess im still get air in somewhere, pullin my hair out with these airleaks in the fuel system, but just one of those things with an idi
 

Psolver

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e40d is an 89 option thats whats in my truck. If you do the swap make sure the e4od has the upgrades ford shipped them with aluminum 4 gear planetary gears upgrade has steel planets and 6 gears
 

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