Play in my water pump, *****? Video included

[FORDF250HDXLT]

I couldn't get the bolt to go through the rearmost plate, but I think I just never got it lined up correctly.

That's just whats going on.

next time I'm out there I'm RTV'ing the $#!* out of both the pipe threads and the fitting and slapping it on there.

Are you actually using thread sealant on your pump bolts and (tomorrow) on your pump fitting or are you really using rtv?

https://www.permatex.com/products/t...nts/permatex-high-performance-thread-sealant/

 

[no mufflers]

My only concern on the fittings is there isn't a barb on the end for the hose to grab. You should be fine, maybe have to double clamp it.

My .02

 

[Golden Helmet]

That's just whats going on.




Are you actually using thread sealant on your pump bolts and (tomorrow) on your pump fitting or are you really using rtv?

https://www.permatex.com/products/t...nts/permatex-high-performance-thread-sealant/

This is what I'm using and calling RTV. I used that to seal the 4 important water pump bolts, the rest I installed with nothing on them, and I was going to use this for the fitting too. I used this Aviation Form-A-Gasket on both sides of the water pump gasket too, as per the instructions in the tech section writeup.

If any / all of this is wrong, it's not too late for me to pull the new pump off and start over.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

Just about anything for a good quality RTV will be fine on a water pump.The stuff your using to seal threads with may not be specifically a thread sealant,I doubt you'll have issues using it as such.
Besides even if you ever did,you can pull a bolt one at a time,to clean it up,apply sealant to it and put it back.If your tube threads seep,you only need to drain off a gallon or so to take it out without taking a bath to fix that too.I would get some specific thread sealant some time but I wouldn't be overly concerned with using that either.I'll bet a penny it never leaks in the next 100k miles.

 

[whiteboyslo]

You can find the heater hose barb in the HELP section at any auto parts store.

Mike

 

[Golden Helmet]

Man, I get stuck on the simplest stuff. This is driving me insane. I'm trying to bolt up my power steering pump bracket, and the long bolt just will not line up and thread where it's supposed to. I moved the whole pump out of the way and it threads fine, so I know it's just me being a rookie. I've been trying to get this one bolt in for over an hour now, why does the simple stuff always have to be the hardest?

Also, another mystery. Apparently I mixed up my long bolts somewhere, I have two bolts, each one a different size and length, and two vacant holes. The smaller bolt threads in to both holes perfectly, and the bigger one fits neither. I wonder what I screwed up...

As always, pics. One of the bolt i'm fighting with, and one showing both bolts / sizes.

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EDIT: I KNEW IT! I knew if I posted to *****, the second I go back to work the bolt goes right in. Apparently if I ***** enough my truck cooperates, not sure if that's the lesson I should be learning, but it's hard to ignore the pattern here

I still have the mystery with the second bolt, now my AC pump is missing two bolts. I'll just secure it and leave the belt off until those fasteners magically appear, it's not like my AC works anyways.

 

[Golden Helmet]

Welp, everything is back in. I filled it up with water, let it get up to operating temperature, and so far NO LEAKS!!!!

I'm not declaring victory yet due to the collateral damage (missing fasteners, ruined one bracket), but if it's still not leaking tomorrow then I think I'm out of the woods. I'm letting it cool down right now, tomorrow I'll top it off and then test drive it around town. If it goes a few days without leaking or exploding then it'll get its antifreeze put in and the fan put back on.

I have one last rookie question for you guys: before the the thermostat opened, any time I revved the engine the top radiator hose would collapse. The bottom one tried to collapse too but the inside spring stopped that from happening (real glad I didn't let the parts store guy give me the hose w/out that spring). Once the temp came up to 190 and the thermostat opened, both hoses stopped trying to collapse and they remained firm when revving. Is that normal and just something to do with air in the cooling system?

Also, if anyone has some spare V-belt parts laying around, I need a bracket and some nuts and bolts. Right now the only thing holding my power steering pump in place is the adjustment bolt, the hole for the second bolt is stripped and won't tighten. I had to break SOMETHING

I want to give A big THANK YOU to all you guys for helping me out so much every step of the way and tolerating my rookie shenanigans. There's not a lot of places willing to help a rookie out so much, now I know how to change a water pump in an IDI and my truck gets to live another day. You guys are awesome

 

[towcat]

i have extra brackets. take a pic and point to the one you buggered up and I'll have a replacement waiting when you show up at the GTG

 

[Macrobb]

I have one last rookie question for you guys: before the the thermostat opened, any time I revved the engine the top radiator hose would collapse. The bottom one tried to collapse too but the inside spring stopped that from happening (real glad I didn't let the parts store guy give me the hose w/out that spring). Once the temp came up to 190 and the thermostat opened, both hoses stopped trying to collapse and they remained firm when revving. Is that normal and just something to do with air in the cooling system?

Found that on my '92 when I changed the coolant. I was worried that the coolant was being sucked somewhere and there was a problem... Nope.

My other trucks never did this... But that's because I've removed the little check ball in the thermostat housing, so there's no 'bleeding' that needs to be done on those trucks - just fill and go.

 

[Golden Helmet]

i have extra brackets. take a pic and point to the one you buggered up and I'll have a replacement waiting when you show up at the GTG

You are awesome, thank you! I took a pic earlier, my finger is on the bracket. That bracket did not have a good day

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Found that on my '92 when I changed the coolant. I was worried that the coolant was being sucked somewhere and there was a problem... Nope.

My other trucks never did this... But that's because I've removed the little check ball in the thermostat housing, so there's no 'bleeding' that needs to be done on those trucks - just fill and go.

My thermostat housing still has the checkball in it, that must be why. Weird. I'll just keep it topped up and stop worrying about it then, thanks!

 

[Golden Helmet]

Man, these things get toasty idling in the driveway with no fan, even with the hood up. But nothing's leaking and nothing blew up (yet), so I think all is well. Just gotta get that fan back on and I should be good to go

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[IDIoit]

if towcat don't have that bracket,(highly unlikely) let me know, I have a few.

 

[Macrobb]

Man, these things get toasty idling in the driveway with no fan, even with the hood up. But nothing's leaking and nothing blew up (yet), so I think all is well. Just gotta get that fan back on and I should be good to go

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Yeah... You kind of need the fan for idling in the driveway.
You don't generally need it any /other/ time though(except low speed driving for long periods with a load).

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

9 times out of 10 that's when the electric cooling fans are running in chip truck; at idle.The other 1 time out of 10 is when pulling a grade but for the most part,the fans work most of the time at idle.

As for the spring in the lower hose.Had you received one without a spring,you simply use your old spring.Some parts stores don't sell a hose with a new spring included.Always insure a spring is used in the bottom hose though.You'll melt her to the ground without one.

If your upper hose is collapsing,suspect your radiator cap.It should be a 13lb cap for our engines.I liked the stant with levers but they didn't last.I swapped to Motorcraft oem standard caps.

 

[Golden Helmet]

9 times out of 10 that's when the electric cooling fans are running in chip truck; at idle.The other 1 time out of 10 is when pulling a grade but for the most part,the fans work most of the time at idle.

As for the spring in the lower hose.Had you received one without a spring,you simply use your old spring.Some parts stores don't sell a hose with a new spring included.Always insure a spring is used in the bottom hose though.You'll melt her to the ground without one.

If your upper hose is collapsing,suspect your radiator cap.It should be a 13lb cap for our engines.I liked the stant with levers but they didn't last.I swapped to Motorcraft oem standard caps.

I have a 13psi cap. I still have the original Motorcraft one in my glove box, but I replaced it with a generic 13 pound one while chasing a mystery leak a while back. I tried to get a new Motorcraft 13 pound cap, but the dealership would only give me 15# caps, so generic it is.

The upper hose didn't try and collapse on me yesterday, so I think it was just air in the system. As soon as the thermostat opened for the first time, it's been normal ever since.