For sure, that ceramic/ stainless seal isnt hurt.
Play in my water pump, *****? Video included
- Thread starter Golden Helmet
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Golden Helmet
Full Access Member
It's all yours if you want it, i'll bring it with me when I bring you my truck for its surgery. Do you want the old wobbly one that's coming off too?save the rusty one for me
Golden Helmet
Full Access Member
The second pump got here early! It was scheduled for delivery Monday, but it was on my porch waiting for me when I got home today. Much better condition than the first one, only a little bit of rust on the sealing surface, no big deal at all. As always, pics or it didn't happen:
All the major pieces are here, so Rookie Question Hour starts now. Bear with me here because I've never done this before:
- My gasket only came with one new bolt, the instructions say there are supposed to be two. If my new pump measures the same as my old one, can I clean and re-use my old bolts?
- For installation of the fan clutch, most of the reading I've done doesn't say much about a specific torque spec. Should I just get the biggest breaker bar at the parts store and a hammer and go full gorilla tightening it down? Or is it a little more sensitive than that? (I'm tempted to just farm this part off to a shop, the last time I got in a "muscle vs truck" scenario I lost badly to my power steering pump)
- What's the preferred method for cleaning old gasket / sealant from mating surface on the engine? Sandpaper, wirewheel, scotchbrite, or what? I don't know how extreme it's gonna be yet, I just want to be prepared.
Once I get the fan clutch planned out, I think I'll be ready to get this over with. Overall this doesn't seem like too bad of a job at all, but I know there's gonna be at least one rookie trap waiting to give me a very educational experience
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All the major pieces are here, so Rookie Question Hour starts now. Bear with me here because I've never done this before:
- My gasket only came with one new bolt, the instructions say there are supposed to be two. If my new pump measures the same as my old one, can I clean and re-use my old bolts?
- For installation of the fan clutch, most of the reading I've done doesn't say much about a specific torque spec. Should I just get the biggest breaker bar at the parts store and a hammer and go full gorilla tightening it down? Or is it a little more sensitive than that? (I'm tempted to just farm this part off to a shop, the last time I got in a "muscle vs truck" scenario I lost badly to my power steering pump)
- What's the preferred method for cleaning old gasket / sealant from mating surface on the engine? Sandpaper, wirewheel, scotchbrite, or what? I don't know how extreme it's gonna be yet, I just want to be prepared.
Once I get the fan clutch planned out, I think I'll be ready to get this over with. Overall this doesn't seem like too bad of a job at all, but I know there's gonna be at least one rookie trap waiting to give me a very educational experience
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Get the fan clutch tight tight. Blue loctite is recommended.
I typically use a razor blade scraper, brake cleaner, and sometimes scotch brite.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
I typically use a razor blade scraper, brake cleaner, and sometimes scotch brite.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Macrobb
Full Access Member
See, the rusty one isn't really bad, per se.
I'd probably just spray some CLR on it, give it a bit and wash it off. Chances are, the rust will vanish.
The sealing surface I'd just wire-wheel anyway, so I wouldn't care too much about the rust.
Golden Helmet
Full Access Member
One last rookie question for you guys. On the four bolts that need thread sealant, is the white tape stuff alright to use or do I need to use something else?
The fan and shroud are currently off the truck but everything else is still in place. I learned today that you can't get the shroud out with the top radiator hose still in place, that was a fun parking lot lesson.
The fan and shroud are currently off the truck but everything else is still in place. I learned today that you can't get the shroud out with the top radiator hose still in place, that was a fun parking lot lesson.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
True that bout the top hose and the schroud removal. I feel we have many other choices to seal those 4 bolt threads than teflon tape.Probably best to use rtv. Just make sure the top 2 bolts are the same length for the new pump. Cut them down if needed. Caution tightening them too.The square nuts spot welded on the back of the timing gear cover plate are really soft metal.I have stripped one many years ago. Use some 3M weatherstrip cement to glue the gasket directly to the pump.Then most any light coat of any gasket sealant on the gasket to plate will work great..
Torque on the fan nut is around 150 ls. I use a 24 and 48 inch breaker bar because I have them. Blue lotite is a must have on the threads too. Have read where some members have lost radiators because the fan nut loosened when the engine shuts down. We have extremely high compression so our engine quits turning almost instantly. That causes plenty of loosening torque on the nut threads.One sad member FORGOT to tighten the nut and shut down the engine watching the fan unscrew and ruin the nice radiator. We do learn lessons sometimes..
Torque on the fan nut is around 150 ls. I use a 24 and 48 inch breaker bar because I have them. Blue lotite is a must have on the threads too. Have read where some members have lost radiators because the fan nut loosened when the engine shuts down. We have extremely high compression so our engine quits turning almost instantly. That causes plenty of loosening torque on the nut threads.One sad member FORGOT to tighten the nut and shut down the engine watching the fan unscrew and ruin the nice radiator. We do learn lessons sometimes..
Teflon tape belongs nowhere on automobiles. Get a gasket scraper. I use never seez on my fan clutch ,not loctite. Take it to a shop with the air hammer fan clutch wrench
Macrobb
Full Access Member
At one point, I used some super glue on the fan clutch threads. Worked just fine.
(this was after not tightening it enough, and having it fall off on engine shutdown. Didn't break anything.
After that, I didn't bother, but put it on nice and tight.
(this was after not tightening it enough, and having it fall off on engine shutdown. Didn't break anything.
After that, I didn't bother, but put it on nice and tight.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I ran into one that someone had put some kind of thread locking compound on it and I couldn't turn it off by hand even when it was broke loose. I had to use my 24" channel lock pliers on the nut until about the last couple of threads. I will never use anything on the threads.
Golden Helmet
Full Access Member
Found the first rookie trap: the 1/2 bolt on the water pump pulley will not budge. The three 9/16 bolts came loose with ease but the 1/2 won't move, it just keeps turning the engine. My belts are still attached. Do I need an impact or special tool or something to get this thing off?
Golden Helmet
Full Access Member
I just figured it out. I put my breaker bar on another nut on the pulley and used my ratchet on the 1/2 nut. That held the pulley in place and now it's loosened. Sorry for the dumb question, but at least now I know a new trick with my hand tools. Progress continues!
Golden Helmet
Full Access Member
Found rookie trap #2, the heater hose fitting on the water pump is refusing to budge, my wrench is just trying to round off the nut. Liberal amounts of PB blaster have been used. What can I try to get this thing off?
If you leave it and just cut the hose,just above the outlet,will the hose still be long enough to slide down onto the new pump? If so,cut her and leave it for the devil.
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