Oil in coolant

[OLDBULL8]

If you got the kit with two large green and four small black o'rings, that is the correct kit.

 

[Fordfan90]

If you got the kit with two large green and four small black o'rings, that is the correct kit.

Thanks for you input I'll be taking the oil cooler off tomorrow along with pulling the radiator.

 

[Macrobb]

Hope so! Lol
From what i gather on heat transfer copper is the best, aluminum is second, and brass is trailing far behind. I believe the copper radiators are mainly brass. Ive got a turbo and im cranking it up, felt like i could some extra cooling power.

The problem with aluminum is corrosion. It's /very/ prone to corrosion, especially when you have dissimilar metals involved.
Typically, aluminum radiators come with a sacrificial anode to help protect it... but when that gets used up it will still corrode.
Also, your sacrificial anode(usually zinc) will turn into powder as it does it's job, which might make having a coolant filter a good idea.

Pretty sure that the /quality/ of the aluminum radiators available is sketchy at best. I've heard lots of stories about replacing them every couple of years as they leak.

Brass/copper radiators may or may not be the 'best' metal when it comes to raw thermal transfer, but I'm not convinced it matters.
On multiple trucks of mine, I've had more trouble getting the truck up to temp in cold weather than any issues of overheating.
Unloaded, they tend to stay right at the 180-190F mark, cycling the thermostat as needed.

Loaded, well... I've seen 220F once or twice, when throwing all 250 HP into hauling up a long grade in the middle of summer.

However... I do know that timing makes a /massive/ difference here. I took a trip last year with a hurriedly put together setup that was several degrees retarded.
With a big camper on, in the middle of summer... I occasionally had to back off to keep it from getting above the 220F limit, dropping below 70 a few times on hills.
Once there, I advanced the timing by like 5 degrees or so, and on the way back... No issues. More power, no temp problems and I maintained the speed limit the whole way.

 

[Desertfireguy]

Don't know if you already got the oil cooler out, but you can get it out by just sliding the steering column up out of the way. I pulled the DS front wheel to get at the top bolts with an extension and swivel. So far the the only thing dripping is the PS reservoir. Gotta mark her territory somehow!

 

[Fordfan90]

The problem with aluminum is corrosion. It's /very/ prone to corrosion, especially when you have dissimilar metals involved.
Typically, aluminum radiators come with a sacrificial anode to help protect it... but when that gets used up it will still corrode.
Also, your sacrificial anode(usually zinc) will turn into powder as it does it's job, which might make having a coolant filter a good idea.

Pretty sure that the /quality/ of the aluminum radiators available is sketchy at best. I've heard lots of stories about replacing them every couple of years as they leak.

Brass/copper radiators may or may not be the 'best' metal when it comes to raw thermal transfer, but I'm not convinced it matters.
On multiple trucks of mine, I've had more trouble getting the truck up to temp in cold weather than any issues of overheating.
Unloaded, they tend to stay right at the 180-190F mark, cycling the thermostat as needed.

Loaded, well... I've seen 220F once or twice, when throwing all 250 HP into hauling up a long grade in the middle of summer.

However... I do know that timing makes a /massive/ difference here. I took a trip last year with a hurriedly put together setup that was several degrees retarded.
With a big camper on, in the middle of summer... I occasionally had to back off to keep it from getting above the 220F limit, dropping below 70 a few times on hills.
Once there, I advanced the timing by like 5 degrees or so, and on the way back... No issues. More power, no temp problems and I maintained the speed limit the whole way.

Do you know where to put a temp gauge? I have mechanical coolant temp gauge just need to know where to put the probe/sensor.

 

[Macrobb]

Any of the large plugs in the head will do. Look at the two original sensors and where they are at. Also check where the water comes out of the head for the heater core. The heads are identical, so there are matching plugs/holes on the other side.

Be warned, however, that getting said plugs out is not easy.

 

[rustygold]

I think there is one on the back of the driver head near the valley pan

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