Hey everyone new to the IDI world, just bought my first 94 7.3 IDI turbo 5 speed manual completely stock 192k miles, my problem is at higher rpm the motor will bog and sound like it's misfiring, also I have no(lack) of turbo boost, I can hear the psshh between shifts but no power or spool, it's drinking gas like crazy, no black smoke, white smoke with blue tint on cold start ups will fire first try tho. Just replaced injector o rings yesterday hoping that was it.
New to IDI. Power loss
- Thread starter Calilean
- Start date
Welcome to OBN.I was going to say,you must of tried going up hill and I was gunna say,that's perfectly normal.
Seriously though,no boost and poor fuel economy = leak.You'll need to find out where it is.
Seriously though,no boost and poor fuel economy = leak.You'll need to find out where it is.
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Macrobb
Full Access Member
...It can also be timing. To a great extent.
White smoke is almost always retarded timing.
Higher in the rev range(especially with any load on) means you are giving it some throttle pedal.
There is a light-load advance cam which gives you extra advance from idle to about 1/4 pedal(decreasing as you give it more pedal).
If the engine gets retarded enough, it will start missing.
On the other hand, a lack of fuel pressure will *cause* retarded timing, too. By a couple of degrees, due to the hydraulic elements inside the IP.
White smoke is almost always retarded timing.
Higher in the rev range(especially with any load on) means you are giving it some throttle pedal.
There is a light-load advance cam which gives you extra advance from idle to about 1/4 pedal(decreasing as you give it more pedal).
If the engine gets retarded enough, it will start missing.
On the other hand, a lack of fuel pressure will *cause* retarded timing, too. By a couple of degrees, due to the hydraulic elements inside the IP.
It does idle really ruff on start ups, I'll get white smoke on start ups or when I'm pushing past the 1/2 throttle while it's studdering, looks like I'll call around some shops and see who can time these motors
Macrobb
Full Access Member
The answer is almost nobody. The good news is that you can get it running pretty well just by ear and feel. You just advance it a bit at a time until it starts feeling like it's /losing/ power, then back it off a little.
It won't be perfect, but it'll be better than 90% of shops can do.
In your case, you are going to advance it a lot, perhaps 6 degrees or so. Probably as far as you can easily get the pump to be advanced will be a start.
Check youtube for videos; it's just a matter of loosening the 3 nuts(9/16 wrench) holding the IP in place, and rotating the entire pump.
Rotate the top of the pump towards the passenger side to advance it.
It won't be perfect, but it'll be better than 90% of shops can do.
In your case, you are going to advance it a lot, perhaps 6 degrees or so. Probably as far as you can easily get the pump to be advanced will be a start.
Check youtube for videos; it's just a matter of loosening the 3 nuts(9/16 wrench) holding the IP in place, and rotating the entire pump.
Rotate the top of the pump towards the passenger side to advance it.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
Yup... It's a pretty common issue - as the pump and injectors wear, the timing gets retarded.
It's pretty much to the point that *any* IDI that hasn't specifically had a newly rebuilt pump, good injectors and a known timing job... needs a timing job.
Powerstrokes and more modern engines don't really have any timing adjustments, so it's an easily overlooked thing.
It's pretty much to the point that *any* IDI that hasn't specifically had a newly rebuilt pump, good injectors and a known timing job... needs a timing job.
Powerstrokes and more modern engines don't really have any timing adjustments, so it's an easily overlooked thing.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
You'll never know any numbers without a timing meter.
Every pump/injector combination is different; replace either of those and it will change your timing wildly, even if it's in the same "position".
Every pump/injector combination is different; replace either of those and it will change your timing wildly, even if it's in the same "position".
It should do far better than just 8 mpg.
