New clutch slipping.

[notenuftime]

Ummmmmmm, is there any free play in the pedal?

Not really.

 

[notenuftime]

Torqued bolts to spec mentioned above.

 

[laserjock]

It vents out the tower boot on top. I dont think there is a vent tube per se. I think someone posted that above too.

 

[crash-harris]

I did, lol. Got lost in some rapid posts. I've never met a manual transmission with a vent tube, always just the top cover that retains the shifter. Hence why a torn or damaged shifter boot allows such a stink in the cab.

 

[notenuftime]

Ok that makes sense for why I got the smell. Investigation starts tomorrow on the clutch slipping.

 

[79jasper]

My sm465 has a vent. Lol
I'll get a pic next time I'm at my moms, if I remember.

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[madpogue]

Not really.

Could be a factor. If you have an assistant, slide under the truck and observe the slave/fork while an assistant pops the pedal arm off of the pushrod. If you see any movement of the fork, that means the pedal is moving the fork slightly even when full up, and that could be partly disengaging the clutch. Juuuuuust enough so that it feels normal with minimal load, but will slip when really pushed.

 

[Macrobb]

I'd definitely look into this.
In my '93, I ran into the clutch slipping on me on a trip hauling a trailer. It just started to get slowly worse.

Something must have not been adjusted quite right, because I just yanked out the rubber stopper for the clutch pedal on the "up" side. The problem got better over the next few hours, and while my clutch still needs to be replaced... it went from 'immediate clutch replacement' to 'eh, it'll last for another couple of years if I don't try to make it slip'. (and that's with a stock 11" DMF holding 250RWHP/460+ft-lbs of torque, which is probably at the limit anyway).

So I'd definitely be making sure that the clutch master cylinder fully disengages, so it doesn't "pump up" and reduce the force on the clutch.

Remember also that these clutches always have /some/ force on the throwout bearing(so it's always spinning) from a spring inside the slave cylinder, so...

 

[notenuftime]

Could be a factor. If you have an assistant, slide under the truck and observe the slave/fork while an assistant pops the pedal arm off of the pushrod. If you see any movement of the fork, that means the pedal is moving the fork slightly even when full up, and that could be partly disengaging the clutch. Juuuuuust enough so that it feels normal with minimal load, but will slip when really pushed.

I'll check. See what I find tommarow.

 

[notenuftime]

Could be a factor. If you have an assistant, slide under the truck and observe the slave/fork while an assistant pops the pedal arm off of the pushrod. If you see any movement of the fork, that means the pedal is moving the fork slightly even when full up, and that could be partly disengaging the clutch. Juuuuuust enough so that it feels normal with minimal load, but will slip when really pushed.

How do I go about adjusting if I see this movement.

 

[madpogue]

How do I go about adjusting if I see this movement.

The arm that connects between the pedal box shaft and the master cylinder pushrod is on a spline. You can try removing it and "re-clocking" it, that is, moving it a bit clockwise and re-installing it. That would have the effect of backing off on the pushrod.

 

[pelky350]

So usually the master cylinder has a solid push rod and cannot be adjusted on the newer idi's but you can take a push rod off a older ford in a salvage yard and they are adjustable(usually)or I believe it was napa that sells a replacement push rod that's adjustable and also new.

 

[79jasper]

Or you can do a heim joint.

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[madpogue]

Rock Auto has an adjustable pushrod.

 

[notenuftime]

Will look into it. Thanks.