jwalterus
Made in America
I have yet to turn one up.
Need help ip problem!!
- Thread starter Dieselmafia
- Start date
I have yet to turn one up.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
You did turn up the fuel by moving the allen wrench towards the radiator. Getting the air out can take several cranking attempts. Personally I like to keep ALL the lines closed at injectors. Crank for 10 seconds and stop. then crack open the lines at the injectors and look for air and fuel. you actually can hear the air escaping. It will come to life so don't feel like you are making it harder by not knowing what to do. This forum will walk you thru it.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
Here's my video of the bleeding process:
BTW, turning up the fuel is fine... just match it to the air flow. This means watching your smoke. If you get more than a haze at WOT, turn it down. If nothing at WOT, turn it up. As the IP wears, it does need occasional adjustment.
If you get a turbo, well, turn it up until you get a light haze at WOT with max boost. Then be careful with the throttle, because when you /don't/ have max boost, you can easily create smoke.
Also, remember that if you /aren't/ smoking, you are generally burning efficiently, no matter what the 'setting' is.
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BTW, turning up the fuel is fine... just match it to the air flow. This means watching your smoke. If you get more than a haze at WOT, turn it down. If nothing at WOT, turn it up. As the IP wears, it does need occasional adjustment.
If you get a turbo, well, turn it up until you get a light haze at WOT with max boost. Then be careful with the throttle, because when you /don't/ have max boost, you can easily create smoke.
Also, remember that if you /aren't/ smoking, you are generally burning efficiently, no matter what the 'setting' is.
Dieselmafia
Registered User
Could I have done anything wrong when I turned it up?
Dieselmafia
Registered User
I've tried cracking the injectors I get little bubbles but not much fule. I get it out of th shader valve though. I'm scratching my head new to the idi game.
Dieselmafia
Registered User
Happy holidays btw
if you haven't added more air (turbo and or intercooler) then adding more fuel won't do anything for ya.
as for priming.i don't do any of the manual bleeding as others mention.i simply;
1.turn the key and the let the electric pump fill the fuel filter.(if you have a stock lift pump,which you do,and you have fuel at the valve,your now already here by cranking some)
2.crank for 20 full seconds.
3.stop and wait for the starter to cool down for 2-3 minutes.
4.crank for another full 20 seconds........however even after an ip change,iv never had it not run inside the second 20 sec.
that's it.she'll run rough for a few seconds and smooth out but i don't mess with the hard lines,simply because iv never had too.letting the starter cool down between cranks is the longest part it takes my trucks to prime between ip swaps/fuel adjustments.
my guess is,you've been letting the fuel drain back on you by frigging with the hard lines.re-charge your batteries on a trickle charge over night,then just follow these steps and she'll be purring like a kitten for ya in the morning.
as for priming.i don't do any of the manual bleeding as others mention.i simply;
1.turn the key and the let the electric pump fill the fuel filter.(if you have a stock lift pump,which you do,and you have fuel at the valve,your now already here by cranking some)
2.crank for 20 full seconds.
3.stop and wait for the starter to cool down for 2-3 minutes.
4.crank for another full 20 seconds........however even after an ip change,iv never had it not run inside the second 20 sec.
that's it.she'll run rough for a few seconds and smooth out but i don't mess with the hard lines,simply because iv never had too.letting the starter cool down between cranks is the longest part it takes my trucks to prime between ip swaps/fuel adjustments.
my guess is,you've been letting the fuel drain back on you by frigging with the hard lines.re-charge your batteries on a trickle charge over night,then just follow these steps and she'll be purring like a kitten for ya in the morning.
Dieselmafia
Registered User
Turning the Allen key twords the raidiator turns it up?
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Yes. turning the allen wrench towards the radiator turn UP the fuel. What you are doing is screwing in the adjustment of the spring. Care needs to be taken doing this because turning it ALL the way up dead heads the pump adjustment. Then the plungers will break down because they bottom out.
Dieselmafia
Registered User
Ok . Well I guess it's just air the like y'all have said. I just don't get fuel I don't understand
Dieselmafia
Registered User
Ok well I've tried all the suggestions but I'm still not getting any fuel I ge a little air but no fuel it shouldn't take this long to prime I would think . The only thing I can think of is the pump
pelky350
Full Access Member
When your getting fuel at the filter Schaefer valve are you getting a fair about coming out while cranking it? Or just a bit of bubbles and some fuel popping out? A bad lift pump with still get you some fuel up there just not enough to run or prime the system. While turning over press the valve open a little you should get a fair amount of fuel coming out without air. In my expierince this is what I did to see why my truck wasn't starting g before after turning up my injection pump it turned out I had a weak lift pump and it just happened to keep it running until it needed to prime the system again and then it decided to fail on me.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
Did you check that the IP has power to the fuel shut off solenoid?
Are you cranking with the accelerator floored? If not, you won't get nearly as much fuel.
Are you cranking with the accelerator floored? If not, you won't get nearly as much fuel.
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