major engine noise, currently broken down

cardana24

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Loose rocker or the bent pushrod started this, when the valve stem mushroomed it saved your engine. I would guess the piston will have some love taps on it but likely be ok. If the truck is a nice one , please fix it, a good head rebuild with new springs and keepers, new guides will almost guarantee you many years of trouble free miles.

There is no cut and dried reason this happened. You can coulda, shoulda ,woulda all day long and not get the right answer. Likey abuse by a previous owner.
JM2CW.

Just for grins, see if that rocker bolt is streched, if so it got hammered loose, if not it loosened and started this problem.

Ive done so many failure analysis on engine/bearing fails I cant remember them all.

Oh and the valve springs look too clean for really bad guides, when loose they cook the exhausts black.

I was able to remove the rocker arm bolt with just my fingers...not sure at what point this happened.

The truck is pretty nice and I have done a bunch of pretty big repairs on it, I'm just not sure I am up to this repair. Anyone in the Central VA area want to make some money pulling the head on this thing?
 

cardana24

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I am going to look at a used engine tomorrow as a possible replacement. I still have not pulled the head/s on the engine in the truck. I have bought plenty of used engines but they have all been gas. Anything I should be looking at? The engine is removed from a truck and has not run since January. 157k miles, from a 93 f250.
 

riotwarrior

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Bar it over by hand at least 4 complete cycles feel for abnormalities

15/16 socket and big ass breaker bar.

Look for indicationz of water in intake manifold.

Why was engine pulled?
 

cardana24

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Bar it over by hand at least 4 complete cycles feel for abnormalities

15/16 socket and big ass breaker bar.

Look for indicationz of water in intake manifold.

Why was engine pulled?

Will I need a deep well socket to turn the crank? Or just a standard short one?

according to the guy he bought the whole truck from his neighbor in running condition, but the rear end had been smashed in and the from was bent so he took the parts he wanted and scrapped the rest of the truck.
 

pafixitman

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I don't understand why you are not just pulling the heads. Mine did something very similar years ago. My push rod came through the rocker cover. I pulled the heads and replaced a piston all in frame. (Don't recommend pulling an oil pan in frame...hard to get a good seal when you replace it)
 

Greg5OH

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howd you replace the piston without pulling the pan..?

BTW great info ITT, sorry bout the loss thats a bummer. But yes, just get another RTO engine and drop it in, theyre liek 500 bucks. I figure you will be at least 500 for repairing the head, stripping it, valve job on all of them while you are there etc etc..
 

pafixitman

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howd you replace the piston without pulling the pan..?

BTW great info ITT, sorry bout the loss thats a bummer. But yes, just get another RTO engine and drop it in, theyre liek 500 bucks. I figure you will be at least 500 for repairing the head, stripping it, valve job on all of them while you are there etc etc..
I pulled the pan when I did the piston. I just never got a good seal when I replaced it. My truck never marked it's territory until after that nightmare. In hindsight, I should have pulled the rad support and motor - would have been easier than pulling the turbo, heads and oil pan in frame.
 

IDIoit

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I pulled the pan when I did the piston. I just never got a good seal when I replaced it. My truck never marked it's territory until after that nightmare. In hindsight, I should have pulled the rad support and motor - would have been easier than pulling the turbo, heads and oil pan in frame.

ALOT EASIER!
 

cardana24

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I ended up coming home with it. I thought I was going to look at just the engine but it came with an auto 4x4 trans too. This set up came out of a bucket truck with 157k miles on it, 93 factory turbo truck. It has "Dealers Diesel" stickers on the valve covers so I am guessing it is a rebuild. It also has a hydraulic pump mounted as an accessory. Here are a few pics.

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I have the top part of the air cleaner box in good shape too just not pictured because I took it off when we were loading the engine because I thought it might get damaged the way we lifted it.
 

riotwarrior

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Well I can tell you thats a F350 transfer case...

Heard or read once that diesel dealers had their own factory turbo setup same as stock ford...but memory is weak...could be wrong. What does the air filter lid say?

Get a pick of the turbo outlet....we can see if stock or 3" upgraded one.

Could be interested in hyd pump n all that btw...pm'd ya.

Hope this is a good runner.

Reseal oil cooler now before installing engine. Also a couple of block drain petcocks for drakning cooling system are a worthy upgrade....

Ya you scored.
 

riotwarrior

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I pulled the pan when I did the piston. I just never got a good seal when I replaced it. My truck never marked it's territory until after that nightmare. In hindsight, I should have pulled the rad support and motor - would have been easier than pulling the turbo, heads and oil pan in frame.

LOL

Some say pull rad support...however I say pull clip....its much much easier to access engine and associated hardware and not really a significant amount of work compared to rad support....I personally have done it both ways...I only pull clip now.....it just makes more sense....TO ME and is much easier TO ME.
 

cardana24

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Well I can tell you thats a F350 transfer case...

Heard or read once that diesel dealers had their own factory turbo setup same as stock ford...but memory is weak...could be wrong. What does the air filter lid say?

Get a pick of the turbo outlet....we can see if stock or 3" upgraded one.

Could be interested in hyd pump n all that btw...pm'd ya.

Hope this is a good runner.

Reseal oil cooler now before installing engine. Also a couple of block drain petcocks for drakning cooling system are a worthy upgrade....

Ya you scored.

How can you tell the transfer case is from an f350? I'm just curious, I don't know the difference between the two. The guy I got it from also said the transmission has been rebuilt. Where do companies normally put rebuild tabs? The trans has been painted blue and the transfer case looks like it has been sealed with some not from the factory rtv.

I think the turbo set up is a stock .093 set up. Dealers Diesel is the name of a reman place. The top of the air box looks the same as the box on my 94, it says Ford on it.
 

icanfixall

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Hers what I see in your pics.. Nice score...:thumbsup: I also see a horrible place to attach the ground cable to an exhaust manifold. That can kill a battery from heat traveling down the cable and overheat the battery. Might see a exhaust manifold bolt missing too but otherwise it sounds like a nice engine. Check the oil pan for a gasket. If you find Dealers installed a rubber or cork gasket remove it and use only rtv like the factory did. Resealing the oil cooler will never be easier that when the engine is out of any truck. Its just great insurance.
 
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