major engine noise, currently broken down

cardana24

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The valve stem is there, I can take another picture if that would be helpful. I'm really not sure what to do at the moment, I have out so much money into this truck as compared to the number of miles that are driven. I'm am rally thinking about selling the truck and getting something else. I only use the truck once a week to take the trash and pull a car once a month or so on my car trailer. With that being said I'm not sure I can find a decent truck for what it would cost me to repair this one.

What would have a caused this problem to happen in the first place?
 

OLDBULL8

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What I would do would be to HAND crank the engine over so the piston pushes the valve all the way up. Remove the valve spring so you can see if the valve guide is destroyed, (wallowed out). If it looks OK, put it back together, of course you'll have to get new valve keeper parts. After repair, start it up and see how it runs. Not good, then it's tear down time. It may have destroyed the valve or the valve seat. Good Luck.
 

Knuckledragger

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Old Bull has a good idea that will determine how much time and money it will take to repair. Presuming you can get the stem up and the guide is not too damaged, look closely at all of the related parts, including the pushrod. Roll it on something flat to make sure it has not bent. Don't forget to fish around in the head for the other keeper. Fingers crossed.
 

cardana24

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I don't need a smooth surface to check the push rod...it kinda looks like a race track
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Here are some more pics. I don't think I should be able to lift up the piece that's on the valve...I'm thinking this is the valve stem. Let me know what you all think
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Here is a video showing what's going on. There is not a ton of wiggle room, but I am guessing I still have big problems.
http://vid176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/cardana24/IMG_2163_zpsojiugdse.mp4
 

Knuckledragger

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Yeah, the head needs to come off. That loose piece WAS part of the valve guide. If you are lucky, all of the work will be in the head, since the valve did not break and mash up the piston.
 

icanfixall

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Thanks for the great pics and video. Sad to say that head needs to come off. That valve was hammering the piston and the rocker was hammering the valve tip. The broken piece that slides up and down on the valve is the valve guide. You have a very worn guide and probably many of the other valves are worn as bad. Time to pull the engine and tear it down. There are no short cuts to fixing this engine correctly. At the very least amount of work it will need a valve job. If you decide to repair it please replace that spring along with the pushrod and the rocker. DO NOT RUN THE STARTER TO TURN THE ENGINE. Hand crank it only. Because the valve tip is so damaged I don't feel it can drop the valve into the cylinder and ruin a piston if.. The piston is not already ruined. But from the looks of the pushrod and the valve I feel the piston is damaged beyond keeping. You wont know if the piston has crushed the ring into the ring groove till that piston comes out to look it over.
 

riotwarrior

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Yuppers heads must come off..

In all likely hood since the guide is kaput and valve remained in head we can hope the valve head is intact as well. IF so you may..MAY get lucky and only have to do guides and valve grind on heads.

We await the decision and ensuing work that comes with it. Good luck it really isnt hard just time and $$$ consuming.

BTW terrific images.

This thread is similar to my exhaust chuff post mortem where you had the huff or chuff out intake and now experienced catastrophic failure I too had big bang boom. I lost an entire engine mind you!

Another proof positive thread to NOT neglect huff/chuff on theze engines!!!
 

OLDBULL8

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After seeing the pic's, it's way beyond what I suggested. Nice pics showing the damage.
 

cardana24

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Thanks for the knowledge guys. I really just don't think I am up to that amour of work right now. I will probably try to sell it as is unless I end up with another idi or obs, if that's the case I will part it out once I take what I need. I'm not sure what could have caused this. I am really easy on the truck and keep up with maintence. But I have no clue if the previous owner did. The truck only has 185k on it
 

Diesile

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Those are basically good engines. I run two of them. One a DD the other my winter work truck. I would fix that low mileage engine
or use it as a core for a rebuilt.
If you want to sell the engine, let me know!
 

riotwarrior

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The huff you heard is the combustion and exhaust pressure back feeding through worn intake valve guide. That guid wear allows valve to WoBbLe about while engine runs not sealing correctly. Likely a harmonic occured ...rattling and it lost half a keeper then whole keeper and valve dropped a d as cam came around it caused bent pusrod n so on....not a perfect description but lcose

Thus as I said before

THISE WHO HEAR HUFF AND CHUFF HEED THE WARNING NOISE AND FIX THE ISSUE
 

cardana24

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How much more is it at this point to remove the right side head? Other than pulling the head bolts what else needs to be done?
 

The Warden

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How much more is it at this point to remove the right side head? Other than pulling the head bolts what else needs to be done?
The intake manifold has to come off, which means the injector pump needs to get out of the way. The alternator and vacuum pump bracket may have to come off too, but I'm not 100% sure.

I suspect the turbo will need to come off as well.

Also, once you get to the point where you're ready to pull the head, you're only head bolts away from pulling the driver's head as well. May as well get them both done at the same time!

It's easier to do the heads with the engine out of the truck, but if you'd rather leave the engine in, they can certainly be done that way...just, if there's piston damage, the engine will have to come out anyways.
 

riotwarrior

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Disconnect battery

Drain coolant

Remove accessory brackets

Remove turbo

Remove IP via the 3 bolts behind lemon cover DO NOT REMOVE GEAR COVER ...JUST PULL IP OUT OF IT.....WELL COVERED HERE IN MANY THREADS.

Remove intake.

Disconne t exhaust and remove manifolds

Remove rockers and keep in order...remove pushrods keep in order and tip that fits rocker end up...

Remove head bolts...rear ones on both heads likely stay IN head when you lift em...heavy....85 lbs a piece

That about sums it up....roughly

JM2CW


Al
 

typ4

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Loose rocker or the bent pushrod started this, when the valve stem mushroomed it saved your engine. I would guess the piston will have some love taps on it but likely be ok. If the truck is a nice one , please fix it, a good head rebuild with new springs and keepers, new guides will almost guarantee you many years of trouble free miles.

There is no cut and dried reason this happened. You can coulda, shoulda ,woulda all day long and not get the right answer. Likey abuse by a previous owner.
JM2CW.

Just for grins, see if that rocker bolt is streched, if so it got hammered loose, if not it loosened and started this problem.

Ive done so many failure analysis on engine/bearing fails I cant remember them all.

Oh and the valve springs look too clean for really bad guides, when loose they cook the exhausts black.
 

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