Good evening!
Over the last couple of weeks, I helped a friend with some work on a Cummins 6BT out of a '91 Dodge W-250. I did some of the clean-up work, but my friend did most of the install work, which gave me an opportunity to take some pictures and write this up, in the hopes that it will help others
First step (of course easier said than done) is to remove the transmission, along with the torque converter or clutch assembly. Given that the engine's not currently in the truck, we were already ready to go
Now, remove the flexplate (or flywheel):
Next, you'll want to remove the starter and, if equipped, unbolt the back of the transmission cooler assembly from the adapter plate. Once those are free, remove the 8 bolts holding the adapter plate in place, and the adapter plate should come right off:
The rear seal housing needs to come off now. There are a total of 10 bolts: 6 8mm bolts holding it onto the block, and 4 10mm bolts holding it to the oil pan. Looking at this picture of the tail end of the crankshaft after the housing has been removed, you can see a few grooves cut into the surface. These grooves will immediately cut up a replacement seal, so a Speedi-Sleeve will be needed:
The back (visible) part of the rear seal housing after being removed. The seal was surprisingly loose in the housing; I don't know if that's normal or not, but given the effort needed to install the new seal, I suspect it's not:
The front mating surface of the rear seal housing after being cleaned up:
SPEEDI-SLEEVE TIME!!! The sleeve is placed in the installation tool, with a pair of hands to give you an idea of the scale of this thing. Even compared to the front main seal on this engine, it's bloody huge...CERTAINLY far larger than most rear seals you'd see on an engine this size. Note that there's a slight lip on the seal; this appears to be an attempt to keep too much oil from getting to the seal:
Square the installation tool on the crankshaft end and go to town with a BFH. Make sure to hit alternating sides to keep it square. You do NOT want it to be crooked! It's all the way in when the installation tool bottoms out:
Speedi-Sleeve installed on the crank. Some say that you should put an adhesive on the inside of the sleeve, but it's a tight enough fit that we deemed it to not be necessary:
Using the included installation tool to install the seal itself. Like with the Speedi-Sleeve, be sure to hit it evenly on all sides so that the seal goes in square. Also like with the Speedi-Sleeve, the seal's properly installed when the installation tool bottoms out. Per instructions, you do not want to use any additional sealant between the seal and the housing:
(More in next post)
Over the last couple of weeks, I helped a friend with some work on a Cummins 6BT out of a '91 Dodge W-250. I did some of the clean-up work, but my friend did most of the install work, which gave me an opportunity to take some pictures and write this up, in the hopes that it will help others
First step (of course easier said than done) is to remove the transmission, along with the torque converter or clutch assembly. Given that the engine's not currently in the truck, we were already ready to go
You must be registered for see images attach
Now, remove the flexplate (or flywheel):
You must be registered for see images attach
Next, you'll want to remove the starter and, if equipped, unbolt the back of the transmission cooler assembly from the adapter plate. Once those are free, remove the 8 bolts holding the adapter plate in place, and the adapter plate should come right off:
You must be registered for see images attach
The rear seal housing needs to come off now. There are a total of 10 bolts: 6 8mm bolts holding it onto the block, and 4 10mm bolts holding it to the oil pan. Looking at this picture of the tail end of the crankshaft after the housing has been removed, you can see a few grooves cut into the surface. These grooves will immediately cut up a replacement seal, so a Speedi-Sleeve will be needed:
You must be registered for see images attach
The back (visible) part of the rear seal housing after being removed. The seal was surprisingly loose in the housing; I don't know if that's normal or not, but given the effort needed to install the new seal, I suspect it's not:
You must be registered for see images attach
The front mating surface of the rear seal housing after being cleaned up:
You must be registered for see images attach
SPEEDI-SLEEVE TIME!!! The sleeve is placed in the installation tool, with a pair of hands to give you an idea of the scale of this thing. Even compared to the front main seal on this engine, it's bloody huge...CERTAINLY far larger than most rear seals you'd see on an engine this size. Note that there's a slight lip on the seal; this appears to be an attempt to keep too much oil from getting to the seal:
You must be registered for see images attach
Square the installation tool on the crankshaft end and go to town with a BFH. Make sure to hit alternating sides to keep it square. You do NOT want it to be crooked! It's all the way in when the installation tool bottoms out:
You must be registered for see images attach
Speedi-Sleeve installed on the crank. Some say that you should put an adhesive on the inside of the sleeve, but it's a tight enough fit that we deemed it to not be necessary:
You must be registered for see images attach
Using the included installation tool to install the seal itself. Like with the Speedi-Sleeve, be sure to hit it evenly on all sides so that the seal goes in square. Also like with the Speedi-Sleeve, the seal's properly installed when the installation tool bottoms out. Per instructions, you do not want to use any additional sealant between the seal and the housing:
You must be registered for see images attach
(More in next post)