Injector pump removal

CRMW

Registered User
Joined
Dec 21, 2003
Posts
24
Reaction score
0
I've got to remove the injector pump & send it out to be rebuilt. Any tips, tricks, or Though Shalt no Do's? I've got the Haynes manual which isn't the best but, I shall muddle through somehow.

Thanks,
Chris
 

kcyard

Registered User
Joined
Dec 21, 2003
Posts
26
Reaction score
0
Location
klamath falls oregon
i removed the one on my factory turbo we ended up taking the lines off and working it out withthe turbo in the way it was harder with out it shouldn't be bad KC
 

apextrans

What Log Book????
Joined
Jan 9, 2005
Posts
1,615
Reaction score
0
Location
Fallston, MD
Hey ,

a guy over @ TDS emailed me complete instructions for a total fuel system removal & reinstall. It covers injectors too. I looked for an email for you but didn't see it. If you PM me with your address, I'll send it to ya.

Scott
 

geonc

SPIDER BAIT
Joined
Dec 22, 2003
Posts
7,271
Reaction score
1
Location
NECKVILLE North Carolina
Not rocket sience, BUT ...............................................

DO NOT REMOVE THE TOP GEAR COVER{oil fill}

There is a small cover on the oil filler that gains access to the 3 bolts to drive gear.
SOME guys have had bolt failure when they re-used the old bolts, so for a couple $, get NEW...I have {somewhere:confused:}
the NAPA p/n for u-joint bolts that are 12 pt and hardend.....I'll repost.
Remove the steel lines WITH THE PUMP, then remove the lines, and KEEP the anti vibe clamp/rubbers ....these are nesc to avoid snapping lines.

While you are at it, got to DIS {link not working right now}
and get a return line kit.
Also would be a good time to replace the crappy steel/washer connections with steel braide line.


All for now............
 

argve

Resident Fruitcake
Joined
Dec 11, 2004
Posts
7,510
Reaction score
32
Location
Gwynneville, Indiana
Chris,

Take loose the injector line caps at the injectors, then remove the electrical connections to the injection pump (3 of them) then remove the return line and supply fuel lines to the pump. Now there are three nuts that hold the injection pump to the gear cover housing (9/16") the one on the passengers side is a real bear to get at, but if you drop the fast idle solenoid off it opens it right up takes 7/16" if memory serves. Then jump around to the cover George mentions it's on the front of the gear housing just below the oil fill neck. As he mentioned take the three bolts out 5/16" 12 point socket. Then you can wiggle the entire assembly (injection pump and lines out as one unit. It's a tight one but it can be done - this is how I do it because I don't want to mess with the line caps on the bottom of the pump that are an extreme bear to reach without bend the snot out of a wrench or having a crows foot.

Line caps take 5/8" wrench
Nuts to studs on gear housing 9/16" wrench
Bolts to gear under access cover 5/16" 12 pt socket
Bolts for high Idle 7/16" wrench
Supply lines to pump one end 11/16" other is 5/8" wrenches
Return line to top of injection pump - pliers

If you have a bolt action tranny then you don't have to worry about FIPL or TPS (Fuel Injection Pump Level or Throttle Position Sensor). But if you have an auto trans then you will need to remove the TPS and I want to say these are torx head but I could be off on that one it's been a while since I have been under the hood of an IDI.

If you do have a FIPL then you will need to recalibrate it upon reassembly of the system which is pretty much a cake walk I'll explain how to do that when the time comes just post back if need be.

As George said you should replace the three bolts that hold the injection pump to the gear but I have not always done this in the past and never had a problem but that choice is up to you - it won't hurt one bit to replace them.
 

geonc

SPIDER BAIT
Joined
Dec 22, 2003
Posts
7,271
Reaction score
1
Location
NECKVILLE North Carolina
As George said you should replace the three bolts that hold the injection pump to the gear but I have not always done this in the past and never had a problem but that choice is up to you - it won't hurt one bit to replace them.

Travis, there was a thread about 4years ago regarding those bolts. And some of the headaches they caused.

Also ask NJKen what happend to his IDI:eek:

Here's the NAPA p/n 331-10 U-joint bolt kit about US $8.

BTW, Travis IS the man on inj pumps:Thumbs Up :cheers:
 

suv7734

Registered User
Joined
Jan 8, 2005
Posts
974
Reaction score
1
Location
BC Canada
Whether you replace them or not is up to you but make sure you clean them well and use the 'red' Loctite (626)when you re-install them and watch the torque. I can't remember the torque number right now but if you need it post back.

Bruce
 

NJKen

is a daddy!
Joined
May 1, 2004
Posts
1,335
Reaction score
0
Location
Central NJ
Yep. I am the lucky one that had one break. As far as I know the injection pump was never off the engine either. The head of the bolt chewed the hell out of the cover, worked its way down and found a nice sweet little home in the timing gears. The ultimate result was the camshaft stopped moving but the crankshaft did not. For the $7 for the bolts, just change them.
You will need a couple of cheap 9/16 wrenches that you cna heat and bend into other shapes for easy pump nut removal. Remove the pump with all 8 injection lines still attached.
Also, as mentioned do not remove the tope cover from the engine(thi injection pump actually bolts to this cover with 3 studs and nuts).
It is a fairly strait forwad job. i know you did not ask but I am going to tell you anyway that Wickliff Diesel has done plenty good by me more than once for injectors and pumps.
Ken
 

smokin_stroker00

Registered User
Joined
Mar 24, 2004
Posts
1,021
Reaction score
0
Location
dover ohio
when we get pumps rebuilt on tractors we have the pump shop set them up to give 10% more fuel. You can do it yourself but no way of telling how much you increased it. I know when we turned Diesel_Cowboys all the way up it makes his stack look a lot better
 

Freight_Train

Traitor to the brotherhood
Joined
Jan 11, 2005
Posts
3,634
Reaction score
2
Location
Gadsden,Al
But if you turn the pump up ANY you better have a Pyrometer.Cause you WILL melt the pistons out of the engine.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
91,217
Posts
1,128,504
Members
24,045
Latest member
Ramtough01
Top