So guys I went and bought another 7.3 idi n/a with a 5 speed. The body is super clean and so is the interior. But I have questions about the motor so I bought it last night noticed it has leaky injector caps and leaky injection pump. But the radiator cap was screwed cause it would stay on but I could turn it off by hand with pressure on the system easy so not really allowing any pressure to build. But when I checked the coolant level it was down a little and had specs of oil in it and the cool over flow tank had oil in it. It had some smoke if you really got on it. Would just like to get this pickup fixed up good.
I have questions
- Thread starter Fordfan90
- Start date
Hydro-idi
Full Access Member
Sounds like your injection pump needs to be rebuilt and replacement of return lines. Good time to change injectors as well.
If you have oil in coolant system, the o-rings in the oil cooler have failed and will need to be taken apart and re-sealed.
And replace radiator cap.
If you have oil in coolant system, the o-rings in the oil cooler have failed and will need to be taken apart and re-sealed.
And replace radiator cap.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
Yeah. radiator caps tend to need replacing every few years, depending on whether they hold pressure or not(I also sometimes see crud get stuck into the rubber seal, which prevents it from sealing).
Make sure to get a lever-lock type. *so* much better than the non-lever style.
Return lines - Not a big deal; just get a cheap $25 kit on Ebay. When installing the O-rings, use some High-temp wheel bearing grease on the O-rings and inside of caps.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-3-IDI-For...m1ec10da078:m:mo99yc-qj2auqcFLKKuuHEA&vxp=mtr
(Note - there's two styles of return line kits out there, one with 3/16" lines(early style) and one with 1/4" lines(late style). Either will work on any truck. It's only personal preference or matching what you already have. I think the 1/4" late-style are perhaps a little easier to work with, as there are more barbs on the hose-barb ends).
As long as you use the grease as I recommended(and not something stupid like Vasoline), even a cheap kit like that will work perfectly well. If you *don't* use said grease, you will have trouble. Period.
Injection pump wise... Make sure it's leaking from the injection pump itself and not the fuel inlet line right at the back. There is an olive seal inside that connector, which when it leaks will drip down the bottom of the pump and make it look like a pump internal seal is leaking.
Also, if it's just a single seal that's leaking on you on the pump(like the driver's side light-load advance piston), you can easily get a $30 re-seal kit off ebay. Obviously, if you take the pump apart, you have a chance of ruining something, but it can be done(and if it's just an external seal like the light-load piston, it's a lot easier to fix).
If you need to buy a new pump, idiperformance.com. Much better quality than the crummy rebuilds at the autoparts stores.
Make sure to get a lever-lock type. *so* much better than the non-lever style.
Return lines - Not a big deal; just get a cheap $25 kit on Ebay. When installing the O-rings, use some High-temp wheel bearing grease on the O-rings and inside of caps.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-3-IDI-For...m1ec10da078:m:mo99yc-qj2auqcFLKKuuHEA&vxp=mtr
(Note - there's two styles of return line kits out there, one with 3/16" lines(early style) and one with 1/4" lines(late style). Either will work on any truck. It's only personal preference or matching what you already have. I think the 1/4" late-style are perhaps a little easier to work with, as there are more barbs on the hose-barb ends).
As long as you use the grease as I recommended(and not something stupid like Vasoline), even a cheap kit like that will work perfectly well. If you *don't* use said grease, you will have trouble. Period.
Injection pump wise... Make sure it's leaking from the injection pump itself and not the fuel inlet line right at the back. There is an olive seal inside that connector, which when it leaks will drip down the bottom of the pump and make it look like a pump internal seal is leaking.
Also, if it's just a single seal that's leaking on you on the pump(like the driver's side light-load advance piston), you can easily get a $30 re-seal kit off ebay. Obviously, if you take the pump apart, you have a chance of ruining something, but it can be done(and if it's just an external seal like the light-load piston, it's a lot easier to fix).
If you need to buy a new pump, idiperformance.com. Much better quality than the crummy rebuilds at the autoparts stores.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
The only thing that holds the return caps in place is the o-rings. If your return caps are loose, then your o-rings are bad. They are old and brittle. Of course you already know that because you said that "it has leaky injector caps". From my experience, if the injector pump seals are leaking, then the internal parts are getting to be pretty worn and it's about time to replace the pump. There is always such a thing as a seal that started leaking early from poor installation or poor manufacture.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
There's three people to buy from and be sure that you're getting a good product. Justin at r&d idi performance, Russ (Typ4) on here, or Mel (agnem) who runs Conestoga Diesel. They do pumps, injectors, turbos, and other items for our engines.
