HELP- radiator/coolant disappearing

[Macrobb]

Just so you know, you can definitely have a leaky hose clamp that only leaks under pressure. So it builds up as the truck warms up, leaks at that point and then stops.
So it's hard to trace unless you can see it.

Also, make sure that the overflow hose is in the overflow tank correctly and actually sucking/filling. If the hose was broken, that could cause some loss down to a certain point.

Not saying it isn't worse, but the easiest solutions should be checked first.

P.S, I really like the Zerex HD ELC coolant that I run in all my trucks. One of the 'interesting' things about it is that it leaves a distinctive pink/white residue on surfaces as it dries after leaking out. It makes it *really* easy to see where coolant is leaking, even just a little.

 

[m67tang]

I'm at a loss now,
No bubbles in radiator. No more filling up the over flow tank. No leaks- that I can find- and the fluid level is staying steady. I must be nuts

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Could have been trapped air or could be lifting a cylinder head. I'd keep a close eye on it and see if it changes with a heavy load

 

[m67tang]

I will be keeping a close eye on it. I have to use it again tomorrow. About 120 miles of driving to do. I have extra fluids with me already loaded.

 

[pelky350]

How much boost does it take to lift a cylinder head without studs?

 

[hesutton]

I'm at a loss now,
No bubbles in radiator. No more filling up the over flow tank. No leaks- that I can find- and the fluid level is staying steady. I must be nuts

I'd check a used oil analysis and see what it shows. My guess is you'll have traces of coolant there. From what you described, it certainly sounds like compression gases were making their way into the coolant somewhere.

Heath

 

[rustygold]

I had a gasser do something like this I found out the heat of the motor was evaporated the coolant off the block before it hit the ground. When off didn't leak. You might look for trails on your.

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[IDIoit]

you need to pressureize the coolant system
if it fails the next step is to pull the oil cooler off, make block off plates with rubber gaskets
and re-test. if it fails again, then you need to pull the water pump and timing gear cover
block off plates again and then retest.
pull the intake also.
drain the oil and leave the plug out of the oil pan when you do this,
if you have water coming out of your oil pan while the coolant system is pressureized, then you have the same issue as I had.

it took me 6 months of being in your position to finally find out I had a cracked block.
this is a complete pain in the ass, I know all too well.
but it is what it is.

 

[rustygold]

Yeah if you need anything ask @IDIoit he knows. For a long time he thought is was the timing cover matting to the block. It's heart breaking you do all that work to find it go down the drain.

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[IDIoit]

Yeah if you need anything ask @IDIoit he knows. For a long time he thought is was the timing cover matting to the block. It's heart breaking you do all that work to find it go down the drain.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

you call it heart breaking, I call it a lesson learned.
it was a pretty expensive lesson, yet a lesson none the less.

these are nothing more than machines, things go wrong.
turns out I went wrong with trying to go bigger.
it is neither a loss or a gain, I call it a draw.

the only thing that can break my heart, I will never get into a discussion with.

take life by the balls, theres no time to sit around sucking snot.
move forward, and say FU$& it!

now, please read the 2nd quote of signature.

 

[m67tang]

I found it-
Blown head gasket. Repair has yet to be decided by me.

 

[Macrobb]

I found it-
Blown head gasket. Repair has yet to be decided by me.

You can do the head gasket with the engine in the truck if you decide. You will want a cherry picker or some other way to hoist it into place(darned things are heavy).

If you can get a helper while you are working on it, it'll make things easier, but I've done it alone.

I'd say the hardest part is getting room for the torque wrench on the bolts. You'll need a deep socket for sure.

Also, you'll need to pull off half the AC box to get clearance on the passenger side. A couple of bolts, screws and levering and it should come out easily enough.

 

[m67tang]

Question:

Do I need to replace head bolts?

How much more work would it be to also replace the camshaft with the regrind cam I've had sitting on my shelf for a couple years?

 

[Hydro-idi]

you call it heart breaking, I call it a lesson learned.
it was a pretty expensive lesson, yet a lesson none the less.

these are nothing more than machines, things go wrong.
turns out I went wrong with trying to go bigger.
it is neither a loss or a gain, I call it a draw.

the only thing that can break my heart, I will never get into a discussion with.

take life by the balls, theres no time to sit around sucking snot.
move forward, and say FU$& it!

now, please read the 2nd quote of signature.

I think it's safe to say that you and I have both been cursed with our idi's lol. It's a love/hate relationship. A little sad I sold mine but at least it's still in the family.

 

[Macrobb]

Question:

Do I need to replace head bolts?

No, but you might want to upgrade to studs if you plan to turbo and add a bunch of extra HP.

How much more work would it be to also replace the camshaft with the regrind cam I've had sitting on my shelf for a couple years?

Regrind stock cam(probably don't need it), or regrind performance cam?

If it's a performance cam, you will want to carefully measure the valve recession and piston protrusion above the deck before installing it. Compare the numbers you get to the minimum idi spec numbers, and make sure you have, oh, an extra .020 or so beyond the minimum, between the two numbers.

The J2, R&D and Typ4 cams all have greater lobe heights, and the valve to piston clearance is *tight*. Miscalculate, and you'll either end up with an engine with no power due to the valves hitting the pistons constantly, or, more likely, one or more valve guides wearing out over the next 10K as the valve *slightly* taps the piston each cycle.

I mean, I want to run a Typ4 cam as much as the next guy, but I've personally had a lot of trouble due to clearance and tolerances.

My next build with my Typ4 cam is going to have extra valve recession on the heads to accommodate the extra lobe height.


----
As far as actual install goes, installing a cam doesn't require removal of the heads.
You remove the IP, intake manifold, valley pan, both valve covers, all the rockers, pushrods, lifters etc.
You remove the radiator, water pump, front cover and anything that can get in the way of pulling the cam out.

You pull the cam out a bit, then pull the cam gear off it for more clearance. Pull the cam all the way out.
Then, do the reverse with the new cam. It's a good 3-day project.