Help identify what's wrong with my ill 7.3 IDI

laserjock

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Is the oil pushing past the turbo seals? Seems like a lot of oil in the turbo to not be coming from the turbo.
 

Spun4Fun

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Is the oil pushing past the turbo seals? Seems like a lot of oil in the turbo to not be coming from the turbo.

Don't think it's passing the Turbo seal as the hot side of the turbo not stained with oil am not seeing any sign of it , i posted a pic post #45 where most the oil stain is covered half the turbo hat going to the intake and i see oil around and under the hat .

Not sure if this ireleivant information to the topic in hand but while back i opened the hod to add washer fluid and noticed there a smoke like an exhaust leak or some thing coming near the turbo down pipe . again i do not see any oil staining the down pipe and i will post a pic of that side
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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Agreed and I was relieved to know but where is all that oil that collected in the CDR and pooling in the compressor side causing the turbo hat to be wet.


I think I am side tracked from the original issue the high amount of smoke the truck produce when I ran it around 2k RPM in the previously posted Video .. seems like unburned fuel !

Compression test pass
No sweet smell
Radiator pressure test loss about 1.5 PSi per hour

Next will be connect every thing back and wait for it to start smoke and start crack each injector and watch what happen

both my trucks with the banks sidewinders are pretty oily like that too.the cdr is relocated as you know right right up there by the turbo and as the little ****** spins,to bring in cold air it's got a pretty good hard draw from the cdr tube id imagine too.whenever i look in,i see the same amount of oil pooled in the turbo as you do.both trucks are the same way.
chip truck has 150k miles on its engine and there is a reman in log truck but i dunno how miles are on that (200k on the truck.)
when oil is burned,that generally produces a blue haze to it.if you were burning enough to always see smoke caused by oil at 2k rpm,you would be constantly topping up the oil if it was burning that much.

they're so messy iv contemplated installing catch cans in the cdr lines so my intercoolers and piping wouldn't get so soaked........but ehh,let her draw and burn i figure.doesn't hurt anything lol.

as you might of learned by now.don't try and keep that top 1 quart up all the time.it's a waste of oil in these idi's.if the stick shows a quart low,leave it right there.they use far less oil this way.

now i wave my hand like a jedi and say.......the problem is your injectors.:D
 
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Agnem

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Something which you could do for peace of mind with all this, which has not been mentioned, is to get an oil sample off to Blackstone Labs. If you have any concerns about coolant or bearing problems, they will let you know what's going on. By everything that you have described, your pump and injectors are the place to start with your exhaust and running issues. That sweet smelling eye burning exhaust is always a sign of bad pump/injectors.
 

icanfixall

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Mel really nailed it in his comments. I used Blackstone on EVERY oil change for many years. No I don't use them but should run a checkup sample. Its like getting a yearly health checkup.
 

Spun4Fun

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Actually I had the pleasure to speak to Mel this afternoon . It's small world indeed
 

Spun4Fun

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Something which you could do for peace of mind with all this, which has not been mentioned, is to get an oil sample off to Blackstone Labs. If you have any concerns about coolant or bearing problems, they will let you know what's going on. By everything that you have described, your pump and injectors are the place to start with your exhaust and running issues. That sweet smelling eye burning exhaust is always a sign of bad pump/injectors.

Mel it was great talking to you this afternoon . I use Blackstone with my small VW TDI diesels as the PD engine known for cam wear specially if the correct oil wasn't used

They offer great analysis that's for sure ..

After I spoke to you I decide that the moose Jr will be the pump for me but wanted to ask would a stock ( brand new off course ) injector set such Delphi , StanAdyne would work as well or it's advisable to stick to the new predesigned injectors you offer
 

Spun4Fun

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Well the Game plan will be to Pull the IP and Injectors ..Send them out for the royal treatment . Then Rent the timing tool from icanfixit .


What you guys think or how much involved since i will have the IP out is to remove , clean and replace the Valley Pan .


Do they sell an aftermarket VP with better drainage character than the OEM which will allow the Banks Turbo to drain better ?
 

icanfixall

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Any new purchase valley pan will have the better oil drain back already made into them. If the engine has the original factory valley pan it may not flow enough oil and back up.
 

Spun4Fun

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Any new purchase valley pan will have the better oil drain back already made into them. If the engine has the original factory valley pan it may not flow enough oil and back up.

Most likely it's the original VP


What's all involved in removing the VP and replacing it with new one ?

Do I need a special RTV or specific steps to follow or it's as simple as removing bolts ,old VP replace , install intake
 

icanfixall

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Injection pump and lines come off. then the intake comes off. All valley pans come with RTV in them but its never enough. I use permatex ultra copper plus on all sealing areas. Make sure every surface is clean and I really mean clean. Be especially clean on the back of the pan area. Really nothing holds down the pan but the drain hole plug. Iuse plenty of rtv back there just to be safe.
 

Spun4Fun

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Every thing is technically coming off

IP
Injectors
Intake
Fuel filter

Pump and injectors are going out for rebuild

I found the injectors are Stanadyne stamped with Letter E Are those turbo injectors or not


I figured since pump is out is To clean the intake put a new aftermarket VP that have enough bigger oil drain try for the banks to have enough area to drain


Any sugessition on Vendor or where to get a new VP

Also does any one have a set pushrods laying around just For one head 6 should be plenty as I can't get the last 2 towards the firewall out


Mine are pitted and covered with rust

Thanks
 

Spun4Fun

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So far every thing came out nicely

placed eng little pass TDC as I was doing some pushrods and rocker work

loosened the 8mm 12 point bolts @ the front of IP cover , removed the 3 nuts holding the pump and she came right out .. all injectors are out and they look like shitz ... what's the E code mean on the injectors


Next will remove intake and inspect VP
 

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