Help(Fixed)! Driveline fell out (T-19) from failed U-joint

[rhkcommander]

Short version:
U-joint in rear of main driveline failed, I took the yoke-shaft out of the trans and rode away with the front wheels, I made a FWD F-250 :***:... around a cup of red/pink tranny fluid has leaked from the T-19 transmission Which u-joints do I go with size wise? I want to do both sides of the driveline. Do I need to replace the fluid that leaked out, and how on a t-19? I couldn't leave the yoke in because I couldn't remove the driveshaft otherwise.

I am thinking the spicer is what I want:
Spicer - Universal Joint
Line: SPI | Part # 5-1204X

They say they are OE series 1330, I never understood if this was a sizing measure? I have seen 1350s 1330s and so on. Do I need to bring calipers and measure the cap holes to be sure?

Will these work for both ends of the driveline?



My truck is a F-250 1987 standard cab long bed with a t-19.



Long story:
I was driving the truck today and heard a thunk and metal dragging noise , immediately pulled over and saying in my head "Either A. I'm totally F***ed, or B. I'm pretty F***ed!"

The u-joint between the rear axle and driveline gave up and the driveline dragged about 7 feet before I got over. It looks fine besides some minor scuffing. I knew the u-joints were needing replaced but didn't expect THIS.

I crawled under and the shaft to the transmission had slipped out part way, I was able to pull the shaft out all the way and throw it in the bed. I saw some red (tranny) oil on the ground and in the shaft hole, so I put a zip-lock from my lunch on there with some 12 gauge wire to keep it clean and see how much leaks out. Had my girlfriend meet me so she could follow me, I was hauling crap and had to get it done and wasnt that far anyway.

So I locked the hubs on the front wheels and limped it to my destination a couple miles away in 4wd high. Had to go up to 50mph because of the highway, right before I got there I heard a scratchy noise, hoping I didn't overtax the front somehow? Could that be the tranny after losing a cup or so of oil? It handled pretty well otherwise.

Dropped off my crap, asked if I could leave my truck, they said sure and I plan on going tomorrow to take my driveline to a local shop to have them press the remaining u-joint bits out and in and I'm going to try and source spicers locally without being. It looks like its just mini u-bolts on the rear axle so I can slap the shaft back in and loosen then tighten it on up. Hopefully thats all I have to do to get 'er trucking again...

Thanks guys

 

[rhkcommander]

Real glad it wasnt the front ujoint that failed, I dont need any truck jousting. I saw a box truck do that and it caught a pot hole before the guy knew it happened!



I'm searching as best as I can too. I have heard to use 90wt, 80w90, 50w motor oil or 15w-50? Any current opinions?

All I could find here was this, suggesting 80w90 or 90w, "pouring until it flows out the fill hole"
http://www.oilburners.net/threads/t19-fluid-capacity-and-what-fluid.23002/

Sounds like there are 2 square plugs on the passenger side, one up high for filling and one down low to drain, go at filling it until it starts coming back out. Or pull the top off but I need to KISS. I will be wrestling in the mud and thawing ice on a tarp to get it going again.

 

[compressionignitionrules]

if you are changing your Tcase fluid use ATF synthetic or mercon/dextron . if you are doing a service on your T19 go with 50 synthetic trans oil. same as you would use in a highway tractor .

 

[rhkcommander]

I was going to do a service to get it going again, then do a full change later on. Thanks for the info!

 

[IDIoit]

7 feet!!???? you are a braking god!

pictures really need to be had to see the carnage, I did the same a while back and destroyed my rear shaft completely.
I had to replace the entire shaft.

 

[rhkcommander]

I slammed my foot on the clutch pedal and pulled right over coasting. No pics been a hell of a few days, just got phone back from losing it Saturday.

Minimal damage, thankfully

I'll snag pics tomorrow

 

[pelky350]

I got the slicer u joints from advanced auto, did the same thing threw driveline and drove home with front wheel drive f350 such a strange feeling lol haven't had any trouble with u joints since then I replaced them all and the carrier bearing at the same time since I was already down there. With spicer joints I noticed a much tighter fit into the driveshaft I replaced them all myself

 

[rhkcommander]

Did you use any special tools, I did some u joints in the past, clamps iirc

 

[pelky350]

Vice and brass hammer for minor adjustments, I would not recomend doing either of these but with limited budget and determination any job is possible lol

 

[rhkcommander]

I recall using a huge clamp with a small socket slightly smaller than the cap on one end, and a huge socket the cap could fit inside on the other and clamping down to drive them out.

And then pressing them back in was easier than out.

Called some shops, disconnected phones and one wanted 35$ PER ujoint. Get outta here. I can buy a press for not too much more. Doing all the u joints on my truck would more than pay for one and then some.


--------
This guy, while I dont agree with everything he does, demonstrates what im talking about too.

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I have some huge c-clamps and a vice that weights probably 200 lbs, I'm gonna do it myself like I did the front u-joints. My vice blows his out of the water

 

[Macrobb]

I've done them wrong several times - Vice to hold the driveline, socket to drive it out, and a big hammer to beat the caps through.
It's the same process as shown above, just more violent and less safe, more prone to damaging something.

 

[rhkcommander]

Couldn't get to my jumbo vice but my second biggest popped them right out. Driveline is straight, scuffing from falling is hard to see in pics, I'll upload some tonight.

 

[laserjock]

I have beat them out in parking lots before with a hammer and a block of wood. I have beat them out with sockets. Used a giant vice like a press. Used a press (hydraulic and arbor). I had a guy do one for me once when I was in school. A pro with a 4lb hammer can change them while you are hunting for the stuff.

Depending on the year and type of straps on the rear axle, ford had a ******* 1330 joint that had 2 caps a little larger(thicker) than the others. Be aware of that because the parts guy if he's smart will ask. They did that because the u-bolts were breaking caps. Other than that I think they are all 1330 series joints.

Since it came out, make sure it didn't bend the ears on the yoke and I'd have the shaft checked too. It could have bent the yoke or dinged the tube. It takes very little to bend these things and make it vibrate.

 

[rhkcommander]

tube and yoke are perfect, popped all of the ujoints out in about 5 minutes once i had the crap.

The yoke doesnt fit on the 1330 spicer 5-1204x, the caps are too large. Its looking like maybe this was just for the rear end connection like you said laserjock - oversized for the ubolts. Looks like the front needs a 5-1203x with both caps being 1.062 inches. I was wondering why there was only two proper clips and two c-clips . I will have to dig out my calipers to find out for sure

Any chance the u-bolts took a crap and if so, where in the hell would I find a replacement? There is a ford dealership across town... I found them online so maybe I can find them local if need be. in my hurry to get moving I didn't check them to see, but I dont recall seeing the caps still in either u-bolt, although I suspect you wouldn't find them if it spit the ujoint out anyway. The side that failed had a ujoint stamped GMB Japan. The spicer was still going

 

[rhkcommander]

I just ran back into the garage, I need a ujoint that is 1.062 Inch on all 4 caps to hook the yoke to the driveshaft. I have two for the other end that joins the rear axle. Might have to settle for moog for the yoke ujoint then... cant seem to find any spicers in store online, but ill call around

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