gggrrrrr...stinkin fuel filters....

[geonc]

OK so doing full service on WW's EX and found the wrong fuel fiters...Luberfiner but no membrane like the Motorcraft. and that bastidsummich HFCM that is surrounded by brake and fuel lines, and the drain plug is of course in line with the front drive shaft so no hex bit and ratchet......got it drained and removed the old filter and sprayed out the hsg with brakekleen...install new seal ring and filter....btw--found that a 36mm socket fits!......but sadly due to the crossmember you still need and extension...damm engineers

Used 15-40 Rotella and 2 bottles of REV-X. I do really enjoy the top mounted oil filter that auto drains when loosened give the engineers that!
BTW...having the "stiction" issue and the REV-X really does work!!!!! cold start sound of cylinders swapping holes is gone and idle is smmoooooth!!!

Pulling EGR valve to check carbon deposits when WW gets home today with the seal kit, spare serp belt and blue spring fuel kit.

New learning curve on theses 6.0s for damm sure!

 

[snicklas]

George,

Please tell me you put in a filter with the water block membrane!!!! I have a sticky at the top of the 6.0 Forum about fuel filters.

Yes, I agree.... I would like to kill the engineer that decided to put the HFCM THERE!!!! Move it back a couple feet into the area of the framerail that is open to the rear axle..... I get all scratch up each time I change the filter.... and had to buy a 36mm socket the first time I changed it.... A 36mm socket and a 6mm hex wrench (Has to be an L shaped hex key or you can't get it in there). If you drain it first, your do not get as bad of a diesel bath.......

The top mounted Oil Filter, and Secondary Fuel Filter is really nice..... also, the cap for the oil filter is the same as the HFCM..... same 36mm socket.... the 1/2 drive square in the secondary fuel filter would have been nice in the other 2 caps.....

I have also found my 6.0 likes oils OTHER than Rotella.... I have run the Motorcraft oil, and Valvoline Premium Blue and it seems to like those better.....

If you have any questions, please ask.... they are a bit different to work on.... but the power is really nice!!!!

 

[geonc]

Scott, of COURSE I read your sticky Heard from more than a few people to only use Motorcraft fuel and oil filters!
Fortuneatly I had a 36mm 1/2" dr deep socket for doing the rear unit brgs on my daughters car....I have seen a low profile 36mm socket on fleabay and elseware...might need a new shiny

re: Rotella...well the old girl seems to like it and with it's CI spec it is acceptable for the 6.0's.....so for now I don't need to by seperate oil or worry about topping off....that goes for the coolant as well considering I have been running CAT ELC since '04 in the '96 and the 6.0 is able to run it as well!

Now re: power....uh...my tired 330+k mi bolt action outruns it and the butt-oh-meter dyno backs it up as well as WW agreeing

 

[snicklas]

OK... I am glad that Rotella is working for you... What I found is, closer to the 5000 mile mark, the truck would be down on power a bit, and it took longer to start. Change the oil, and it was back to normal. I did not see that with the Motorcraft or the Valvoline. I didn't use any more with Rotella, I just could tell in performance. Right now it doesn't matter what is in there.... I am fighting a dying/dead FICM.... so it is not itself currently....

Power..... well your tired 7.3 is not stock either..... for a stock power plant, the 6.0 has decent power..... believe it or not, goat boy had driven mine several times, and he said he didn't see any need to turn it up.... to had plenty of power stock...... surprising from the father of E-1 and the nanny goat.......

I have a standard 36mm 1/2 drive I picked up from the local parts store. I keep it in the truck, since if I ever had the need to change the filter on the side of the road.... a 36mm socket is not normally something that someone would have in a toolbox.....

I need to do the service on the coolant, and I have a waterpump that is not as watertight as it once was..... so I am going to do a flush/fill, install a coolant filter and replace the waterpump. Not sure what coolant I am going to put back in, have thought about an ELC, I would love to do Evans.... but that will depend on $$$$$... I would like to do an ELC that I could find easily on the road..... I will revisit that once I am ready to do the work...

 

[Mike]

I tole ya that HFCM was akin to drilling a hole in your fuel tank geo.....

 

[geonc]

I tole ya that HFCM was akin to drilling a hole in your fuel tank geo.....

yea...ya did Mike! even pulling the drain plug that damm fuel finds it's way down to the crossmemeber and right in my ear!
I can't imagine trying to change that without first removing the drain plug!

 

[geonc]

Power..... well your tired 7.3 is not stock either..... for a stock power plant, the 6.0 has decent power..... believe it or not, goat boy had driven mine several times, and he said he didn't see any need to turn it up.... to had plenty of power stock...... surprising from the father of E-1 and the nanny goat.......

Truth be told Scott, ol girl is back damm near close to stock...no tunes and stock squirters...just the 10kmod and open air/exhaust and BHAF so even being generous at 225 hp on ol girl...isn't the stock 6.0 higher????

Goat molester says no need for more power????? damm speedo is too tight methinks!!! hahahahha!!!


As far as ELC....I kinda have a rap for going against conventional wisdom considering I put over 200k mi on my old IDI running Rotella ELC about 10+ years ago and am still running CAT ELC in my OBS PSD since '04...took alot of **** over at The Drama Stop about it.....

 

[snicklas]

Thanks for the info on the coolant.... I will probably go that route..

Yes, the stock 6.0 is 325hp/590tq..... I think the big difference is, the computer holds back the fuel until the turbo starts to spool, where your 7.3 does not....

I don't need to imagine not draining the HFCM first...... I learned that trick on the 2nd filter change..... the best trick so far is:

Come in from the passenger side of the truck
Open the drain in the HFCM and allow to drain into my big drain pan I also use for the oil
Open the lid on the Secondary Filter and allow the housing and feed line to drain out through HCFM Drain.
Again, come in from the passenger side and remove the filter cap / filter with something close to 1,000,000 ratchet movements, since you can only move the ratchet 1 click at a time........ and fish the cap and filter out separately since the won't fit out as a unit.....
Replace o-ring on primary cap, lube with clean fuel, fish the replacement filter and lid back into HFCM, again separately.
Thread in cap by hand as far as it will go, then back to the 1,000,000 ratchet movements again.....
Replace the o-ring and filter into the secondary cap, and replace into unit
Cycle the key at least 3 times to bleed out the air (aren't electric pumps nice)...
Enjoy the next 9,999 miles.......

Oil is really easy....

Open FUMOTO Valve
Remove lid and old filter / o-ring
replace filter and o-ring into lid, and replace into housing
close FUMOTO Valve
Fill with 15 quarts of oil
enjoy for the next 4,999 miles....

 

[gatorman21218]

OK... I am glad that Rotella is working for you... What I found is, closer to the 5000 mile mark, the truck would be down on power a bit, and it took longer to start. Change the oil, and it was back to normal. I did not see that with the Motorcraft or the Valvoline. I didn't use any more with Rotella, I just could tell in performance. Right now it doesn't matter what is in there.... I am fighting a dying/dead FICM.... so it is not itself currently....

Power..... well your tired 7.3 is not stock either..... for a stock power plant, the 6.0 has decent power..... believe it or not, goat boy had driven mine several times, and he said he didn't see any need to turn it up.... to had plenty of power stock...... surprising from the father of E-1 and the nanny goat.......

I have a standard 36mm 1/2 drive I picked up from the local parts store. I keep it in the truck, since if I ever had the need to change the filter on the side of the road.... a 36mm socket is not normally something that someone would have in a toolbox.....

I need to do the service on the coolant, and I have a waterpump that is not as watertight as it once was..... so I am going to do a flush/fill, install a coolant filter and replace the waterpump. Not sure what coolant I am going to put back in, have thought about an ELC, I would love to do Evans.... but that will depend on $$$$$... I would like to do an ELC that I could find easily on the road..... I will revisit that once I am ready to do the work...

While I have no experience with the 6 liter, I do know that with rotella, the truck starts to use some near the end of the oil change interval. I think the oil breaks down a bit. I'm going to try straight 30 when it warms up.

 

[geonc]

While I have no experience with the 6 liter, I do know that with rotella, the truck starts to use some near the end of the oil change interval. I think the oil breaks down a bit. I'm going to try straight 30 when it warms up.

Been running Rotella in my diesels since the mid 80's and even with 330k miles on my PSD I usually add no more than 1 gallon between 5k mi changes so I will stay with what works for me....all oils break down and become soot laden...reason I prefer Rotella is their proven soot control additive...even now with my high mileage, Rotella seems to stay that nice clear honey color longer than the Delvac, Ursa etc... that some of my other diesel friends are using.

 

[geonc]

Yes, the stock 6.0 is 325hp/590tq..... I think the big difference is, the computer holds back the fuel until the turbo starts to spool, where your 7.3 does not....

I don't need to imagine not draining the HFCM first...... I learned that trick on the 2nd filter change..... the best trick so far is:

Come in from the passenger side of the truck
Open the drain in the HFCM and allow to drain into my big drain pan I also use for the oil
Open the lid on the Secondary Filter and allow the housing and feed line to drain out through HCFM Drain.
Again, come in from the passenger side and remove the filter cap / filter with something close to 1,000,000 ratchet movements, since you can only move the ratchet 1 click at a time........ and fish the cap and filter out separately since the won't fit out as a unit.....
Replace o-ring on primary cap, lube with clean fuel, fish the replacement filter and lid back into HFCM, again separately.
Thread in cap by hand as far as it will go, then back to the 1,000,000 ratchet movements again.....
Replace the o-ring and filter into the secondary cap, and replace into unit
Cycle the key at least 3 times to bleed out the air (aren't electric pumps nice)...
Enjoy the next 9,999 miles......

AHHH! lesson learned thanks Scott! forgot about the sec fuel filter having to drain back! ....won't make that mistake again!!
1,000 turns of your ratchet????I only needed 765 hehehehehe.....

Yea electric pumps are the ****! esp at filter service time! brings me back to my IDI days and the Holley Red....oh yes the familiar comforts now where is my blankey and my thumb?????