Gauge install advice needed.

[SirRea63l]

I am about to install a 3 gauge pod with Boost, Water Temp and Pyro, the boost is easy as the 94 has a port in the intake hat, or snail shell. The water temp is hidden to me but I believe there is a port on top of the intake or block for the normal water temp sensor, I should be able to tap into it, if I can find it. Does anyone have a good pic or description of the port or is there an easier one to use?

The pyrometer is another concern. I have normally seen them on the drivers side exhaust manifold where it was drilled and tapped from the bottom. I have also looked at numerous installs online and they all have been from the bottom. I do not believe I will be able to get a drill in there to drill it and if I did then tapping is going to be a real pain. The passenger side is also tight with the exhaust in the way. Is there any reason not to tap the top which is very easy to get to? Obviously I don't want to tap the joint but I should be able to do either side of the casting joint, or is it ok to grind a flat spot on the joint?

This is the top drivers side, plenty of room.

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This is my first time to do this so any tips would help greatly.

Thanks,
Jack

 

[laserjock]

Don't really see how top or bottom makes a difference as long as the probe is about in the center of the manifold. I put mine here.

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As for water temp, there are options. The factory gauge is here.

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That's it just to the right of the gear tower. I put my autometer gauge there and relocated the dash gauge to the rear of the pass side head. Several 1/2" npt pipe plugs you can pull for access but consensus seems to be the factory gauge location is probably the most representative of total temperature.

 

[SirRea63l]

Thanks, would it make a difference if the pyro is installed more to the front? Where you have it is great because it gets 4 cylinders of heat and if I put it farther to the front I won't be getting 4 cylinders of heat.

 

[SirRea63l]

The one by the gear tower is not easy to get to, I have the A/C compressor in the way as well and it looks like the vacuum pump too. The port at the front of the drivers side exhaust manifold is really easy to get to, is it a bad idea to use it? The sensor in that spot is the over temp warning light or something like that???

I can pull the A/C and other stuff if I have to, I just don't want to.

 

[laserjock]

You are correct. It is the over temp warning light.

Here is the water flow path through the engine.

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Ideally you want to read the hottest spot. At the factory gauge location, the water has been all the way through the head block oil cooler etc. Realistically, you need to calibrate your world view to where your sender is located. If you know it's in a cooler spot, you need to adjust the red line. My 2 cents.

 

[SirRea63l]

I have always hated not doing things the best they can be done. I have a new OEM thermostat to put in as well as new idler pulley and belt tensioner, I may as well do it right and do all of them at the same time.

That takes care of two of the questions, now to figure out the pyro install location. I don't think I will be able to get the drill back to where yours is located, clutch reservoir is in the way.

Thank You greatly for the help and sharing your experience.

 

[BrianX128]

The port at the front of the drivers side exhaust manifold is really easy to get to, is it a bad idea to use it? The sensor in that spot is the over temp warning light or something like that???

I can pull the A/C and other stuff if I have to, I just don't want to.

Yeah I was considering using the other one when looking at diagrams and then looked at the truck today before leaving for work and with my AC that didn't look easy to get to anymore. The one between the valve cover and exhaust manifold drivers side is gonna have to be the winner for me too, but I'm glad that's the over temp and not the regular sender so that gauge isn't dead anyways.

 

[laserjock]

Right angle drill? Most of the fittings are 1/8 NPT. Don't screw up like I did and drill and tap for 1/4 NPT. Not a disaster, just had to source and modify my own fitting.

 

[jaluhn83]

The further back you go the more flow you'll get and more representative average you'll see. Right at the front you only see the front cylinder's exhaust, so if that one is higher or lower than the rest you'll get an inaccurate measurement of the overall average. The optimal thing would be to have one on each port so you can see both the average and any variation but that's overkill for this application.

 

[rwk]

If you drill from the bottom,for your pyro, more of the drill fines will fall out rather then into your manifold, cast iron makes more powder then a stringy chips which is the lesser of the two evils,(as far as getting into your turbo) attach a strong magnet if you have one near where you drill, or magnatize your drill with a magnet, may hold some more of the chips, wax style cutting stick on the tap will capture the chips also.

 

[79jasper]

It's very doable. Don't blame the clutch master being in the way.
I did one the exact same spot with a cordless drill.

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[SirRea63l]

Right angle drill? Most of the fittings are 1/8 NPT. Don't screw up like I did and drill and tap for 1/4 NPT. Not a disaster, just had to source and modify my own fitting.

I have been tempted to get a right angle drill, I have needed one way too many times with the house build. I may go ahead and pick one up. I did get the tap when I got the gauges so I wouldn't have an issue.

If you drill from the bottom,for your pyro, more of the drill fines will fall out rather then into your manifold, cast iron makes more powder then a stringy chips which is the lesser of the two evils,(as far as getting into your turbo) attach a strong magnet if you have one near where you drill, or magnatize your drill with a magnet, may hold some more of the chips, wax style cutting stick on the tap will capture the chips also.

I have the magnet and vac ready.

It's very doable. Don't blame the clutch master being in the way.
I did one the exact same spot with a cordless drill.

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My cordless is too big, or I need to find a shorter bit. The only smaller one I have is an impact driver but it blows chunks as a drill even with the 1/4" drill bits. I know I need to get the probe back further so I will do one of my favorite things, tool shop.

 

[laserjock]

If you are NA, just start the truck and drill. Won't have to worry about the metal shavings.

 

[79jasper]

Haha whatever works.
Mine is the craftsman bolt-on.

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[SirRea63l]

If you are NA, just start the truck and drill. Won't have to worry about the metal shavings.

It is the 94 turbo, vacuum will be used with the magnet.

Haha whatever works.
Mine is the craftsman bolt-on.

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I resisted buying the angle drill, I have too many drills already and sheetrock has been started on the house so I doubt I will need it but I do have a barn to build and a couple of other buildings.


I can already tell getting the idler pulley and belt tensioner off is going to suck but they need to be replaced as both look original.