Freeze plug tool. Order one or make it yourself?

[Knuckledragger]

I have seen a few threads about this tool and have been recently approached about getting dimensions for the tool, since I have one. If it is worthy, it would be an honor to have this thread moved to the tech section or parts box.

If you want to order one, it is OTC part number 303-D045. Both parts are stamped with the number and have /1 (the drift) or /2 (the holder) also, in case you lose one or the other, I guess. Be patient. I ordered one in early 2010 and it took 6 weeks for them to get it to me. I think they make them in batches and there really isn't much demand. It cost $130 then.

But for the rest of us, it is simple and easy to make one. I thought there would be some secret handshake or witworth threads to make, but it is pretty straight forward.

The holder (the part you hold) is a 1 1/2 inch diameter tube, cut 5 inches long with a 1 inch diameter hole in the middle. The business end (that seats against the plug) has a 5 degree chamfer that approximately matches the crown on the freeze plugs. there is a 1/16 inch flat ring around the chamfer, probably to keep the edge of the chamfer from being beaten up with use or storage. Also on the business end, the outside diameter is cut undersize about 1/32 inch, so it doesn't jam in the 1 1/2 inch diameter hole in the block.

The drift (the part you hit with the hammer) is made from some 1 1/2 diameter solid round stock. It is only .005 shorter than the hole in which it rides. It is .992 diameter, so a slightly sloppy fit is no problem. No need for honing. I was surprised to find the length so close, I thought it would have been much shorter. Learn something new every day. the striking head is about 1 inch thick, but make it any size you want.

The important part is to have a good flat surface on the bottom of the striking head and the top of the holder. That way you know when you have pounded the plug enough by feel.

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[Devon Harley]

Do not make one not worth the saving at all. Check with icanfixall Gary his new engine was removed because someone installed without the tool. Our plugs are not like any othe engine it's not just pressed in it presses an expands a rings type fit flares it out. I would talk to Gary about it he would tell you to use the tool it's not worth it. Shoot I got an ip wrench 130 from ford but only 75 my cost with account my grind wrench works but ip wrench is the right way takes about 1 min to undo all 3. Anyways that my Ho an it's worth doing right.

 

[riotwarrior]

Do not make one not worth the saving at all. Check with icanfixall Gary his new engine was removed because someone installed without the tool. Our plugs are not like any othe engine it's not just pressed in it presses an expands a rings type fit flares it out. I would talk to Gary about it he would tell you to use the tool it's not worth it. Shoot I got an ip wrench 130 from ford but only 75 my cost with account my grind wrench works but ip wrench is the right way takes about 1 min to undo all 3. Anyways that my Ho an it's worth doing right.

I'm sorry your not making sense here, DONT make one not worth the saving.....check with Gary talk to him he would tell you to USE the tool it's not worth it...

If a person can duplicate a tool or part why not use it. If materials are 40 bucks and you have access to a lathe...why not...I had an injector puller made...works perfectly, COST $00.00 not one cent...just an old injector.

Jason makes an IP turning wrench..it is better than the OTC or what ever brand...and cheaper, why not use that?

I'm sorry but this just doesn't make sense, savings are just that, savings.

JM2CW maybe I'm wrong for thinking this.

 

[Devon Harley]

Riot I dont think your wrong I just remeber reading one of garys post an he said not to because of the way the real tool actually works. It makes a ring kinda of in the middle of the plug an flares it for a tighter fit. If that seal is not made correctly they can pop out an if you were pulling or traveling an it got hot an popped one out well thats no good. Anyone can do it there own way an it may work but imho I cant afford to take the chance after reading that he had to pull his motor because of it. I like to save money to but I just wouldnt try there.

 

[icanfixall]

Useing the special freeze plug installation tool is a must do item on these engines. So is buying only the factory stainless steel plugs. My plugs were brass. they were installed with a socket extension by the crappy shop that did all my machine work. I saw them dripping coolant before the engine started but I felt they would seal up after warmup. I was so wrong thinking that but I was a newbie with this engine once. I was able to drive the new engine 2 miles when the plug blew out under pressure... I was at a stop lite looking around me for the beater that was smoking so badly. Then some guy sneaks up on my curb side pointing down under my truck... It was me smoking coolant... You bet I was pissed off. I got towed another 3 miles to the shop I was going to have the timing set. I knew of the shop because they sleeved my one cylinder that cavitated several years befor. That one plug costs me almost $300.00 to have them fix. The machine shop only paid around $100.00 telling me if it ever happens again just call them. They will cover it completely. Well 5000 miles later while just getting started on a weekend vacation another plug let go pulling the longest and steepest grade out of Los Anglses called the grapevine. I was watching all the 6 extra gauges I have when I saw the ckeck engine lite come on. The coolant was at 220 degrees.. Well thats no problem and I figured the over temp switch had failed. So I continued to climb... Then the oil temp went off the gauge at 330 + degrees... Engine started to clatter. We started slowing down when I felt the pistons were getting hot and just as I got to the freeway emergancy parking the engie quit running... Would not turn over either... Pistons had stuck to the cylinder walls... 67 miles from home too. The story gets worse too but I will say that shop was told what happened and I reminded the owner what he told me... I got nothing from them. I heeded all new bearing. New pistons. Two new heads. They would not even pay me for all the head porting I did. Wouldn't even allow me to tell them what I felt was a fair price. What they did do was buy me a new set of heads. I let them do that and then told them no.. Those are not ported. I was kinda nice about it but I know it pissed the owner off. I found another true big diesel engine shop that did a fine job grinding the valves into the new bare heads I bought. So... Do you feel lucky... Wanna take the chance I took. I learned plenty when all this happened. I had the shop that did the first plug repair install the plugs after the engine burn down but I made a big mistake. I did not use any sealant around the plugs to block. And you guessed it. About a year later I saw a plug leaking during an oil change. So... Out comes the engine. Factory plugs bought. Permatex avaition cement used on all 7 plugs and installed properly once again. Both times these factory plugs were installed I air pressure tested the block to 30 lbs of pressure. I made up all the plates so I could do this test. Many members at Calvins bar b ques have seen them and so have the 2009 rally attenders. I amd now leak free... Hopefully things will stay that way too. Robert (RLDSL) has lost a plug once too as have a few others. These plugs are a simple but critical part of these engines. I really feel the factory plugs should never be taken out. They are stainless steel. How are they going to rot out....

 

[Devon Harley]

Thanks Gary I knew you would be by here to clear it up!

 

[riotwarrior]

Gary never really cleared anything up except he clarified that the tool needs to be used....not if a home made one wouldn't work when a bought one would...

It's all good, I beleive it's all about the comparative lengths of the two parts of the tool. That's whats critical and I bet that from one tool to another you would see factory machining differences....The comparative difference is what gives the dimple the right amount of depth to force the plug outward into the block.

JM2CW but maybe I'm onto something here...

 

[icanfixall]

The amount the tool spreads the plug is really important. The outer part of the tool holds the plug in the block. Hitting the inner part of the tool will spread the plug out. As the inner part runs out of room the hammer blows will now be placed on the outer part along with the inner part of the tool. Its almost like you can't install the plug deper in the block because of how the tool is made. I would make the tool with a larger gap so the plug spreads more. I also noticed that the tool is not the same tool used for the oem plugs. Look closely at whats in the block. The dimple is differant looking. At any rate... Its best to use the special tool. None of us here are good at guessing when we use a punch or anything other than the special tool. I gues we could lean but whos going to be the risk taker. There is only one sure way to know if the plugs are installed properly.. Thats taking them out. If they are really tuff to pull out then they were installed correctly... But now you have them removed. No way can you reuse them.

 

[Devon Harley]

If ur plug blows out 65 miles from home a tow is over $130 use the special tool.

 

[riotwarrior]

If ur plug blows out 65 miles from home a tow is over $130 use the special tool.

My buddy owns a tow truck...tows are free...we do exchange work...

I do not think the OP was intending a debate of HOME MADE core plug tool, vs factory.

The point I think Gary is making is use the correct tool, be it a duplicate of the OTC or an actual OTC made tool; use one!

DO not just use a hammer and punch...

I feel that if I can save some $$$$ on that tool, it will allow me to purchase let me see ....a tool I cannot make...a Injector seat reamer! Both are useful, one is a simple tool to duplicate, one is not.

I myself am confident that the OTC tool can be duplicated and provide very satisfactory results with no problems if it's made properly.

If other people do not wish to attempt to make that tool great, I can respect that, just don't ***** on me for wanting to do so. I know the risks involved in this quite well. Gary, and Robert and even Justin have all had core plugs pop out.

I have previously attempted to get that OTC tool via the Snap-On truck and Mac tool truck...NO LUCK they are incompetent or incapable of procuring said tool. I will ask NAPA and Lordco for shites n gigglz... and see what they have to say.

Nuff said rant done!

 

[redneckaggie]

Do not make one not worth the saving at all. Check with icanfixall Gary his new engine was removed because someone installed without the tool. Our plugs are not like any othe engine it's not just pressed in it presses an expands a rings type fit flares it out. I would talk to Gary about it he would tell you to use the tool it's not worth it. Shoot I got an ip wrench 130 from ford but only 75 my cost with account my grind wrench works but ip wrench is the right way takes about 1 min to undo all 3. Anyways that my Ho an it's worth doing right.

if you can create an identical tool on a lathe then why not it is the exact same tool

 

[icanfixall]

Guys... I will say this about making a simple tool like this. If I had a small lathe I would be making these for anyone that would pay the price for one. Just call OTC and ask what the going price is these days. When Mike or robert bought theris I called about an hour later... they told me it was around $190.00 and a 4 week delievery wait... WTH... I told the lady (and I use that term loosely) why are you people chargeing me that much when my friend called and ordered this about 60 minutes ago... she had no answer... So I said screw it. I'm not going to be treated unfairly like this... They lost a sale right there with me. Knowing the material would help but probably some 4130 or any tool steel like 8740 will work fine... the harder tool steel machines so nicely too. The right feed and the correct speed makes for a nearly perfect cut finish too. It almost looks like it has a ground finish made on the lathe...

 

[Devon Harley]

I just called ford for the otc wrench im looking at 90 bucks an a new batch is made in november. I dont need one at the moment so I would be stuck waiting but 90 is cheap. Either way it may not make a difference but I would not be takin a chance on my truck as I travel an cant afford tows or to make a poor choice to save some money. I believe in doing things once an right. If I had a lathe an could test it an make sure on another truck besides mine then sweet. Im not makin a rant or bashing others thoughts of making a tool riot just stating the importance of them being done correctly an when there not well we all know. jm2c.

 

[icanfixall]

Heres something else about looseing all the coolant suddenly. The temp gauge sender will not be "seeing" any coolant so it wont be reading anything. My dash gauge abd aftermarket gauge stayed at 220 on the aftermarket but the dash was in the normal range. It was the head over temp sender that alarmed me and made me think it was a failed sender.... BIG COSTLY MISTAKE... So lesson is loose coolant and you wont know whats going on till its way too late.... This information comes to you from experiance... The kind nobody likes to have....

 

[riotwarrior]

.. BIG COSTLY MISTAKE... So lesson is loose coolant and you wont know whats going on till its way too late.... This information comes to you from experiance... The kind nobody likes to have....

IIRC and I could be wrong, cause I think I was wrong once....but anyway...didn't you solve that issue of coolant loss and gauge not indicating it by adding a LOW coolant level warning light in your radiator Gary?