egr delete tuner

[idi traveler]

Hey everybody, I don't spend much time over here in the high tech stratosphere of the diesel world, but a neighbor of mine has a 6.0 that has had a egr cooler failure and possible oil cooler failure per the stealerships diagnose's. I have found everything with the help of reading this forum except for the delete tuner. Where can I get such an animal for the best bang for the buck?

 

[snicklas]

The delete tuner that you are talking about is a programmer for the PCM. On the later 6.0L if you remove the EGR Valve it will turn the Check Engine Light on. It takes a programmer, like a BullyDog, SCT... etc.... to turn the light off. If it is an 03 or 04, more that likely it will not set the CEL, but the 06 or 07 more than likely set the lite. Some guys, when they do an EGR Delete, they leave the EGR Valve connected under the hood and just zip-tie it somewhere out of the way, that way it still "functions" as far as the computer is conserned, but it is just hanging in the open air. If you do an EGR Delete, make sure that you get one that is a complete delete setup, that eliminates the EGR Cooler completely, and plugs or swaps out the up pipe to remove the exhaust path also. There are some kits that only delete the valve and not the cooler, which can still leak coolant if something happens. With what you describe, the Oil cooler and EGR cooler being bad, the Oil Cooler is first in that coolant path, then it goes to the EGR Cooler and then out the the radiator (not directly this is just a simple description) and the Oil Cooler coolant passages start to plug up bacause of sediment and other "crap" in the coolant, this limits the amount of coolant to the EGR cooler, causing it to overheat and fail. On the 6.0, the Oil Cooler and the EGR Cooler are in the valley on the top of the engine, it is not a bundle on the side of the engine like the IDI's are. I would strongly recommend a coolant filter, there is alot of casting sand left in these blocks from the factory. That is on my to-do list also. If your neighbor does need a tuner to turn the light off, which it would also give the ability to turn the truck up, same tuner, you can get one of them from any of the sponsers here on the site..... However, if this engine is still running stock except for the EGR Delete, he would want to limit the amount he turns it up as the 6.0 turned up likes the lift the heads...... a set of new gaskets and ARP Studs will help in that area. Mine is 100% stock including all the coolers in place and functioning. I do have an intermittant coolant leak, that I believe it the front cover starting to leak. In talking to punk, he said the best way to fix that is to pull the engine and reseal all the covers. I am going to save my pennies and when Trav and I pull the engine to reseal the coolant leaks, I plan on having a set of head gaskets and head studs also. Do everything that can fail and you need to pull the engine to fix, all at once. Beacuse with my luck, if we pull the engine and only fix the coolant leak, a week after I put it all back together, I will blow a head gasket and have to pull it out again......

Sorry for the long response, if you have any other questions please ask. I love the 6.0, they are not as bad as everyone says, and I would not hesitate to buy another vehicle with a 6.0, with a few checks beforehand.....

 

[idi traveler]

I believe it's an 05 model and it only has 56,000 miles on the clock. Would I be able to use the old EGR valve to hang on the side of the engine after cleaning it? Or would I need to have a fresh valve. And I don't think your post was to long for all of the good info that it contained. The truck is owned by a single woman in her 50's that has a small horse farm and a mutual friend got me involved. Ford want over $2400 to do the work, that she doesn't have.

Is all that I have to do is pull the core support or does the cab have to be jacked up?

 

[snicklas]

To do the EGR delete only, I do not think you have to remove any body components. I think it can all be done from the top and bottom. Now, if you are going to pull the engine, I am probally going to go remove the core support, of it is easier, the whole doghouse. I know the dealer would remove the cab, but they have a fill shop with lifts and such to do the cab removal, and on mine it is an Excursion, so that would be even worse. I know on the older trucks, it is something like 12 fastners and you can remove the whole thing. If you are doing the EGR Delete, if it only dirty, after you clean it you should be able to use it just for input to the PCM. I should clean mine, just for good PM, but I have found that if you just get after it every once in a while, it helps to keep the EGR and Turbo Veins moving well.

A couple of things to let her know, the 6.0 does not like to sit idle for extended periods of time. I have heard no more that 5 minutes, I have idled longer that that, but I always get on the throttle the next few stop lights to help keep things clean. Also, they like to be worked. Running them in town as a grocery getter "socker mom" car is not good on them, I can feel a real difference in mine when it is not run. I will, when I drive it to work, really roll into the throttle and help clean things out when I get on the interstate, again this makes the EGR Valve move more, and the turbo veins move much more. Oil changes every 5k and fuel filters every 10k and only use motorcraft filters.

She may also wnat to check on the warrenty, the engine has a 5 year 100K mile warrenty on it, if it is not to old, it should still be under warrenty.

 

[idi traveler]

To do the EGR delete only, I do not think you have to remove any body components. I think it can all be done from the top and bottom. Now, if you are going to pull the engine, I am probally going to go remove the core support, of it is easier, the whole doghouse. I know the dealer would remove the cab, but they have a fill shop with lifts and such to do the cab removal, and on mine it is an Excursion, so that would be even worse. I know on the older trucks, it is something like 12 fastners and you can remove the whole thing. If you are doing the EGR Delete, if it only dirty, after you clean it you should be able to use it just for input to the PCM. I should clean mine, just for good PM, but I have found that if you just get after it every once in a while, it helps to keep the EGR and Turbo Veins moving well.

A couple of things to let her know, the 6.0 does not like to sit idle for extended periods of time. I have heard no more that 5 minutes, I have idled longer that that, but I always get on the throttle the next few stop lights to help keep things clean. Also, they like to be worked. Running them in town as a grocery getter "socker mom" car is not good on them, I can feel a real difference in mine when it is not run. I will, when I drive it to work, really roll into the throttle and help clean things out when I get on the interstate, again this makes the EGR Valve move more, and the turbo veins move much more. Oil changes every 5k and fuel filters every 10k and only use motorcraft filters.

She may also wnat to check on the warrenty, the engine has a 5 year 100K mile warrenty on it, if it is not to old, it should still be under warrenty.

Ford offered to supply the part if a licensed shop did the work but they wanted $1200 labor for a final offer but when she pushed for full warranty they demanded her off there property. From what I under stand she can be pretty excitable, another friend is working with a different Stealership to try and get the truck fixed. I'm I guess, the back=up plan.