Driveshaft conundrum

laserjock

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So.... I was all set to clean up my rear drive shaft and throw a fresh set of joints and carrier bearing. As I was pulling the circlips something hit the floor. And then I realize it's a balancing weight.

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It literally rusted off. [emoji35]

So I got all the joints out but I really have second thoughts.

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So the slip yokes aren't too bad. The end yokes are not terrible except the 1 but the tubes are pretty roached.

Opinion: retube or full replacement or used?

A cursory search has not turned up a used option.

Any recommendations for a shop around MD, southern PA, northern VA? I'm not brave enough to just do it myself.

At this point I'm pretty set on not just running it. I've got too much into this thing to put a questionable component in now.

Thanks for your thoughts.
 

Leeland

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Last time I looked at your build you were really putting in the effort and $. Might as well keep with it on the drive lines. I'd lean just replacing it all, either shipped in used from a state that doesn't have rust issues or all new. Looks like you might have 1 good yoke, maybe two? Not sure if it's the same yoke from two different angles or two yokes not rusted to heck.
 

junk

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I've never had any luck finding different shafts. Seems like they always get bent by the salvage yard moving trucks with the forklift. I've always had mine retubed. But my yokes weren't rusty.

I have driveshaft parts around so if you need parts like yokes let me know. Also I may have a decent rear shaft part. I don't have a complete center shaft with the hanger bearing on it. I used the front yoke off it. I believe manual trucks use larger u-joints and splines (1.5" vs 1.38") in the center of the rear shaft.

I have a couple different place local to me that build shafts. So I just always get them modified locally.

Jeremy
 

F350camper

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With all the polishing you have into that rig at this point Mike, I'd just bring the whole mess of 18 shafts and yokes and joints and tubes and straps to a drive-line shop near you. Drop it on their counter with a credit card and say, here make it better!
 

laserjock

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Rob, I'm getting there. I have got several recommendations. I'm looking for something a little closer to home that is vetted but, I think that's the road we are headed down.

The bleeding sucks but at this point I'm more than pot committed. [emoji21]
 

laserjock

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So question. I've seen places that say they can't do long shafts with carrier bearing. Do they balance the entire assembly together or are the two halves balanced individually. I can see arguments for both.
 

junk

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Local shop that balances does the whole rear shaft at one shot. They need the carrier bearing also. I've never used them myself, but my buddy has.

I've had a local machine shop do my shafts before. They don't balance. They just indicate all the parts in on the lathe as they fit them and weld. I've had no issues.
 

laserjock

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Two estimates of $750-850 for all new. [emoji15]

Think I'll be finding someone local and just fix the bad pieces. I'm supposed to try to get it over to a shop this week to have them look at it and give me a price to fix what needs fixed. If it's too much I'll suck it up and go new.
 

Greg5OH

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I got my old CCLB 2wd manual driveshaft you can have free if you cover shipping expenses.
Looks in better condition that that. I can get some pic tonight if interested?
Dont know how much it would cost. Thinking around $100 though?
maybe you can use your front part coupled with my rear part? (you are still 2 piece yes?)
 

laserjock

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I appreciate the offer Greg. It's the rear shaft that is the worst. Having it re-tubed shouldn't be terrible. It's not very long. I was going to take it in today but stuff happened so that will have to wait.
 

laserjock

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Depending on asking price I would buy the whole damn truck. I'd need to get it cheap as a divorce attorney would likely need to be figured in.
 

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