DIY fuel line clamps?

MtnHaul

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I just replaced my leaky #1 fuel line with a new one from Dipaco and the new line sits too high and far from the old lines to use a 3-line clamp. Anybody successfully used a homespun solution? I was thinking maybe find some rubber hose to slip over the lines and ziptie them together. Any and all suggestions appreciated.
 

IDIBRONCO

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He was asking if there's a way to make your own holder to use on the injector lines. I'm not sure that zip tie would be strong enough or hold tight enough. It may be possible to slightly bend the other injector lines closer to your new #1 and use the original clamp.
 

Clb

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Again
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Are you talking hard line?
Did you loose the pulse adapter from ih?
The timming is shot for #1 now without it.
Are you talking returns?
GOT PICTURES??
 

Clb

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If this about the hard line clamps......
Then its a 50/50 may work scenario.
 

Macrobb

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Take a picture.
The lines shouldn't be that far apart. Was the new #1 line off a van and /not/ need the adapter?

As far as building a support clamp, well, you could probably do something with rubber hose and zip-ties or hose clamps. Not sure, but it *seems* that as long as you prevent them from vibrating as much, it should work.

I know that *without* any clamp, they will crack. Early on I did this, and it cracked about 5-10K down the road.
 

MtnHaul

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Sorry I wasn't more specific. Yes I meant steel injector line. Can't take pictures. The new line was purchased from Oregon Fuel Injection and unless they sent me the wrong p;art it was supposed to be for a truck NOT a van.

@Clb Forgive my ignorance here but what is a pulse adapter? The new line "looked" like the old one and appeared to be the same except for a slightly different bend. I am not the first person to work on the fuel system on my truck and perhaps the pulse adapter was missing before I purchased the vehicle.
I have driven the truck since installing and the engine sounds the same.
 

MtnHaul

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The part # on the new injector line was DE8TZ9A555A which several sites show as the appropriate line for trucks.
 

79jasper

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Albeit they're a lot shorter, but this is what VW did to fix the same issue.
You must be registered for see images attach


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

IDIBRONCO

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The pulse adapter is the thing that goes in between the #1 injector and the hard line. On vans and I believe International applications, it's on the #4 injector.
 

Clb

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Post #11
These are on #1 cyl on the truck's #4 on vans.
It's about 1" tall.
So the line sets are different for trucks vs vans.
A #1 for a van (iirc) will bolt onto a truck, but don't quote me on that.
The line you got was a single line, yes?
Call the supplier???
 
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DOE-SST

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If you are handy at fabrication, it wouldn’t be too hard to make a custom clamp. I made two using 1/2” thick hard rubber pad and .060 steel sheet. But, I love to fabricate stuff.


Of course, it might be much simpler to use a hand-held tube bender and tweak the new line so it will engage the existing factory clamp.


I’ve worked on enough aircraft engines, where everything near the engine vibrates, to know that zip ties and rubber tubing won’t last long. Many an amateur mechanic has tried it, sometimes with disastrous results.

Another solution is to bolt together two rubber-cushioned Adel clamps with one attached to an existing fuel line and the other attached to the new fuel line. They would have to be a solid match for the fuel line diameters to do any good, and may not match the current distance between to two fuel lines. You may be able to bend the clamps to decrease their distance. I'd probably put two double clamps in place, just as a bit of overkill so I wouldn't have to worry about them. The rubber on these clamps should last 5-8 years in this application before it starts to break down.
 
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IDIoit

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last year I found the clamps for 13 bucks a set bran new.
 

franklin2

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Just bend the line over to make it fit unless it's a mile off.

And like was said the timing adapter is just a short piece that screws on top of the injector, and then the line screws into the adapter. And I have run the regular line without the adapter, the threads got messed up on my adapter so I took it off and just bent the line down and put it directly onto the injector line. The engine runs fine like this, no miss or anything.
 

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