the basics,if your not familiar with hydroboost;
Hydro-boost power assist was introduced in 1973 by Bendix as an alternative to the vacuum booster. The hydro-boost uses the hydraulic pressure from the power steering system to provide the driver assist in applying the brakes. There are three reasons why a vehicle may be equipped with hydro-boost instead of a vacuum booster:
^ whole paragraph is a link ^ - click to read whole article.
the parts i used for my conversion on my '93 f250HD (same exact stock brake system of the f350)
E5LY-3A697-A RESERVOIR ASY - to bolt onto my power steering pump. - note.i have read these reservoirs with the dual return ports are now discontinued.
E8TZ-2005-B BOOSTER ASY - the hydroboost unit.
Edelmann 71416 Power Steering Pressure Hose - HYDROBOOST TO GEAR.
Edelmann 71442 Power Steering Pressure Hose - PUMP TO HYDROBOOST.
F-450 auto brake pedal
F-450 Master - A-1 CARDONE New Master Cylinder 13-2689
Goodyear SAEJ189 Power Steering Hose - for return.
Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF - you can use dino if you prefer of course.the
Hayden Power Steering Cooler #1009
Magnefine 3/8" Inline Magnetic Transmission/Power Steering Filter
stock pulley driven vacuum pump delete w/electric pump swap to run HVAC.
took about 4 hours.now i have some stopping power.
i highly suggest if your going to do this on the weekend for your work or required daily driver to order this along with your power steering hoses ahead of time just in case:
Amazon.com: Gates 351210 Power Steering Pump Seal Kit: Automotive
install tip;
use lots of petroleum jelly on the large pump to reservoir O-ring and smother the inside of the reservoir real good with it as well during install.this could save someone some unneeded headaches and down time for this otherwise,seemingly easy, do it yourself weekend mod.
tip; if you happen to have a spare fuel filter setting around,they come with a new O-ring and will fit the ps reservoir nicely to get you back in action in the event you pooch yours doing this.
.............................
............................
here are the basics.this is all after.but its so easy,it wont matter.
so unhook the four bolts up behind the brake peddle.once you ubolt the master and gently pull it forward.you won't need to unhook the brake lines,however if your brakes haven't been serviced in a awhile,once your all done,go ahead and bleed the lines out anyway as you pur new fluid in.its a good idea to flush brake fluid every couple years cus it gets nasty.
ok,anyway once the master is pulled forward,turn them 4 bolts out,and remove that red clip.as you pull the brake rod off pay attention to how things come off.there's a white plastic washer a black bushing.note their locations and make sure the rod is free.pull out your old vacuum booster and kiss that old sucker goodbye.
next,if your using a stock master that isn't made of aluminum then simply bolt the master to the hydro.
if you have a newer aluminum master cylder,then you'll need to;
a) replace it with the F-superduty master or;
b) ream out the holes on each side (the outer sides.you'll see the issue) so it can slide on the hydo's studs and bolt her down.
slide the new hydroboost unit in its place and reinstall the same way you removed the vacuum booster.you'll probably gently hold it up there to see how your doing with the holes once in a while like it did.once it fits good,then you can bolt here down and then bolt the master on.
(only new units,not reman units come with all the parts you need!!!!)
now your making some shavings.
UPDATE: i latter used the F-450's MS.i prefer it over the pickups.
swap the ps pump for the f-superduty unit if you need to replace that (make sure it comes with the reservoir.they are sold both ways) or;
swap out the stock ps reservoir for the F-superduty's.
a)unhook the hose clamp on the return line (the only one you have currently) on the very bottom.have a pan ready under the truck to catch the old juice.
b) unhook your old ps line,and remove that large fitting behind it (15/16 socket.) carefully not letting anything spring out of it! install new O-rings on this fitting.making sure they are the same type and size.these come with the new res.however like i stated the outer ring didn't work for my fitting.the inner did.i reused my old outer.
c) remove the old large O-ring that seals the res to the pump.like the pic this guys shows of it:
if your going to save $ here by simply placing a T so as to join both return lines.well alright if your on a tight budget and need the stopping power,it sure beats rear ending someone.
so as to avoid problems with this,just make sure you have the T setup so its a straight shot from the hydro unit.
you can actually drill your own hole in your res and rig up your own 3/8 fitting there up top too.this wouldn't exactly be a hard mod to do.
now don't be like me and try to rush it.your half way home already with the hardest part of this job over now.so lube them rings up good along with the inside of the res so everything slides right on nice and easy without destroying your ring on a weekend when its not fun trying to find special order parts.
slide the fitting you just installed new o-rings on,into the res hole from which it came.this holds that on and your ready to slide your original line on the bottom back on and clamp that now.
grab the power steering pump to hrydroboost line and bolt this up (11/16 at the pump) marked with a blue X as shown.
grab the length if power steering hose you bought at the auto store when you where grabbing your fluid and some 3/8 hose clamps
and slid this new return line on the upper side of the res marked with a red X as shown.
connect the other ends of those two lines here in these locations.
the return hose,just slides on of course........somewhere in here is a good place for coolers/filters and clamp that down.
the high pressure line requires an O-ring.it is supplied with the line.lube that up and slide it on,and then screw in into the hydro unit as shown,matching the colors.
keeping the above pic in mind,your now at the final major process.......i know already right!
here is where the other end of the yellow marked line goes.as you can see,it can be reached through the drivers side fender well.
for removal; i bent the old line until it broke off so that i could get a 6 point socket on it with a few extensions at screw her out from the engine bay.you may get lucky and she'll turn right out with a wrench....yeah right.
two pics showing this line.this is the hydro to steering box line.
the hydro end is just like the other,you lube up and slide the little o-ring on first and tighten.the bottom,like the other line has its own washer for this end.
don't cross thread these lines boys.it could be VERY easy to do.especially that one on the ps pump.
tip; don't be tempted to just start that with your 11/16.grab the whole line and turn it together.now hold the fitting tight and spin just the line back to you.repeat as needed.you'll see what im saying when the time comes. take your time installing these.you have all weekend.
as you install those two high pressure lines,don't be afraid to gently "tweak" them out away from things.but be careful,you don't want to kink them.they are shaped pretty dang close as is.
plug off that old vacuum booster line by sticking a bolt in it and clamping it.i lubed up a bolt with rtv and slid it in first.
i also cut it back down low in that vacuum block.you can use a plug down there,whatever floats your boat.just as long as she's sealed.
that's it.your done.fill up that new ps reservoir,make sure all the lines are tight and out of the way of everything,find your res cap and have that handy to go back on.start her up and watch your ps level,and as soon as possible (ps pumps hate to be run dry or even low.you can kill 'em quick,and or forever make them squeal) top it right back up when you see it drop.you can always dip a rag in to take a little out before your test drive.to do it this way,you really should have someone start the truck for you as your ready to pour fluid in.
if your alone,just remove the belt and spin the pump by hand,or unhook the power to the FSS and hit the key a few times to turn the engine over which of course spins the pump without the engine starting,so you can keep topping it up between 5 second spin time intervals or so.however you do it is fine.your main objective is to make sure you don't let the pump run dry,or you could damage it real fast.
look things over and go for a little drive.prepare for a little increase in stopping power.
after the test run,or during just double check the level.once your close,the fluid should be hot now so can use the stick on the cap to get it dead on,either by adding a little or dipping a little out with a clean rag etc.
as you can see,it's not a very hard job at all.a little time consuming.i think i spent half the time reaming them dang ms holes out with a drill bit lol.
that is as long as you make sure to lube things up good during install.
you'll learn from my mistake i just know you will.
optional:
cooler & filter installed
Hayden Power Steering Cooler #1009
Magnefine 3/8" Inline Magnetic Transmission/Power Steering Filter #R038M
fyi;
this cooler comes with 4' 3/8 power steering return hose too.
optional electric vacuum pump info link;
Electric Vacuum Pump Conversion (Hydroboost Brakes only) for 92.5-94 IDI w/ Serp Belt in 6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels
required:
it is imperative that you use the F-450 brake pedal when using the F-450's hydroboost unit in the stock bolt hole locations.the pivot pin location is different and it's vital for proper operation and driver comfort.
if you have a manual trans,then you need the manual trans f-450 brake pedal.
trans type and year specific.ask for help in the forums to find out just which pedal you'll need to source! this just happens to be the pedal my truck required.
be sure to see laserjock's thread here for assistance.where he,others and especially riotwarrior have done extensive research on the very subject to help us all:
Hydroboost Brake Pedal
the 92-97 brake pedals.pickup vs f-super (f-super is without pedal pad)
the f-super clearly has the pin higher up for a more straight positioning of the push rod along with increased leverage.
the numbers stamped on the 92-97 (9th gen) F-Super Duty (pre- F450) AUTO TRANS brake pedal are as follows:
F2TA-2455
i almost forgot to add in my favorite saying! and this is literally the case,to help put things into perspective!........
nothing else you do will come close to adding stopping power to your pickup.going hydroboost from vacuum,adds more stopping power to your truck,than any of the turbo kit's add hp to the n/a idi engine!
and a lot of us know just how big of an upgrade a turbo kit is over n/a! so use caution when applying the brakes after your hydro swap and insure your seat belts are fastened tightly!
Hydro-boost power assist was introduced in 1973 by Bendix as an alternative to the vacuum booster. The hydro-boost uses the hydraulic pressure from the power steering system to provide the driver assist in applying the brakes. There are three reasons why a vehicle may be equipped with hydro-boost instead of a vacuum booster:
^ whole paragraph is a link ^ - click to read whole article.
the parts i used for my conversion on my '93 f250HD (same exact stock brake system of the f350)
E5LY-3A697-A RESERVOIR ASY - to bolt onto my power steering pump. - note.i have read these reservoirs with the dual return ports are now discontinued.
E8TZ-2005-B BOOSTER ASY - the hydroboost unit.
Edelmann 71416 Power Steering Pressure Hose - HYDROBOOST TO GEAR.
Edelmann 71442 Power Steering Pressure Hose - PUMP TO HYDROBOOST.
F-450 auto brake pedal
F-450 Master - A-1 CARDONE New Master Cylinder 13-2689
Goodyear SAEJ189 Power Steering Hose - for return.
Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF - you can use dino if you prefer of course.the
Hayden Power Steering Cooler #1009
Magnefine 3/8" Inline Magnetic Transmission/Power Steering Filter
stock pulley driven vacuum pump delete w/electric pump swap to run HVAC.
took about 4 hours.now i have some stopping power.
i highly suggest if your going to do this on the weekend for your work or required daily driver to order this along with your power steering hoses ahead of time just in case:
Amazon.com: Gates 351210 Power Steering Pump Seal Kit: Automotive
install tip;
use lots of petroleum jelly on the large pump to reservoir O-ring and smother the inside of the reservoir real good with it as well during install.this could save someone some unneeded headaches and down time for this otherwise,seemingly easy, do it yourself weekend mod.
tip; if you happen to have a spare fuel filter setting around,they come with a new O-ring and will fit the ps reservoir nicely to get you back in action in the event you pooch yours doing this.
.............................
............................
here are the basics.this is all after.but its so easy,it wont matter.
so unhook the four bolts up behind the brake peddle.once you ubolt the master and gently pull it forward.you won't need to unhook the brake lines,however if your brakes haven't been serviced in a awhile,once your all done,go ahead and bleed the lines out anyway as you pur new fluid in.its a good idea to flush brake fluid every couple years cus it gets nasty.
ok,anyway once the master is pulled forward,turn them 4 bolts out,and remove that red clip.as you pull the brake rod off pay attention to how things come off.there's a white plastic washer a black bushing.note their locations and make sure the rod is free.pull out your old vacuum booster and kiss that old sucker goodbye.
next,if your using a stock master that isn't made of aluminum then simply bolt the master to the hydro.
if you have a newer aluminum master cylder,then you'll need to;
a) replace it with the F-superduty master or;
b) ream out the holes on each side (the outer sides.you'll see the issue) so it can slide on the hydo's studs and bolt her down.
slide the new hydroboost unit in its place and reinstall the same way you removed the vacuum booster.you'll probably gently hold it up there to see how your doing with the holes once in a while like it did.once it fits good,then you can bolt here down and then bolt the master on.
(only new units,not reman units come with all the parts you need!!!!)
now your making some shavings.
UPDATE: i latter used the F-450's MS.i prefer it over the pickups.
swap the ps pump for the f-superduty unit if you need to replace that (make sure it comes with the reservoir.they are sold both ways) or;
swap out the stock ps reservoir for the F-superduty's.
a)unhook the hose clamp on the return line (the only one you have currently) on the very bottom.have a pan ready under the truck to catch the old juice.
b) unhook your old ps line,and remove that large fitting behind it (15/16 socket.) carefully not letting anything spring out of it! install new O-rings on this fitting.making sure they are the same type and size.these come with the new res.however like i stated the outer ring didn't work for my fitting.the inner did.i reused my old outer.
c) remove the old large O-ring that seals the res to the pump.like the pic this guys shows of it:
if your going to save $ here by simply placing a T so as to join both return lines.well alright if your on a tight budget and need the stopping power,it sure beats rear ending someone.
so as to avoid problems with this,just make sure you have the T setup so its a straight shot from the hydro unit.
you can actually drill your own hole in your res and rig up your own 3/8 fitting there up top too.this wouldn't exactly be a hard mod to do.
now don't be like me and try to rush it.your half way home already with the hardest part of this job over now.so lube them rings up good along with the inside of the res so everything slides right on nice and easy without destroying your ring on a weekend when its not fun trying to find special order parts.
slide the fitting you just installed new o-rings on,into the res hole from which it came.this holds that on and your ready to slide your original line on the bottom back on and clamp that now.
grab the power steering pump to hrydroboost line and bolt this up (11/16 at the pump) marked with a blue X as shown.
grab the length if power steering hose you bought at the auto store when you where grabbing your fluid and some 3/8 hose clamps
and slid this new return line on the upper side of the res marked with a red X as shown.
connect the other ends of those two lines here in these locations.
the return hose,just slides on of course........somewhere in here is a good place for coolers/filters and clamp that down.
the high pressure line requires an O-ring.it is supplied with the line.lube that up and slide it on,and then screw in into the hydro unit as shown,matching the colors.
keeping the above pic in mind,your now at the final major process.......i know already right!
here is where the other end of the yellow marked line goes.as you can see,it can be reached through the drivers side fender well.
for removal; i bent the old line until it broke off so that i could get a 6 point socket on it with a few extensions at screw her out from the engine bay.you may get lucky and she'll turn right out with a wrench....yeah right.
two pics showing this line.this is the hydro to steering box line.
the hydro end is just like the other,you lube up and slide the little o-ring on first and tighten.the bottom,like the other line has its own washer for this end.
don't cross thread these lines boys.it could be VERY easy to do.especially that one on the ps pump.
tip; don't be tempted to just start that with your 11/16.grab the whole line and turn it together.now hold the fitting tight and spin just the line back to you.repeat as needed.you'll see what im saying when the time comes. take your time installing these.you have all weekend.
as you install those two high pressure lines,don't be afraid to gently "tweak" them out away from things.but be careful,you don't want to kink them.they are shaped pretty dang close as is.
plug off that old vacuum booster line by sticking a bolt in it and clamping it.i lubed up a bolt with rtv and slid it in first.
i also cut it back down low in that vacuum block.you can use a plug down there,whatever floats your boat.just as long as she's sealed.
that's it.your done.fill up that new ps reservoir,make sure all the lines are tight and out of the way of everything,find your res cap and have that handy to go back on.start her up and watch your ps level,and as soon as possible (ps pumps hate to be run dry or even low.you can kill 'em quick,and or forever make them squeal) top it right back up when you see it drop.you can always dip a rag in to take a little out before your test drive.to do it this way,you really should have someone start the truck for you as your ready to pour fluid in.
if your alone,just remove the belt and spin the pump by hand,or unhook the power to the FSS and hit the key a few times to turn the engine over which of course spins the pump without the engine starting,so you can keep topping it up between 5 second spin time intervals or so.however you do it is fine.your main objective is to make sure you don't let the pump run dry,or you could damage it real fast.
look things over and go for a little drive.prepare for a little increase in stopping power.
after the test run,or during just double check the level.once your close,the fluid should be hot now so can use the stick on the cap to get it dead on,either by adding a little or dipping a little out with a clean rag etc.
as you can see,it's not a very hard job at all.a little time consuming.i think i spent half the time reaming them dang ms holes out with a drill bit lol.
that is as long as you make sure to lube things up good during install.
you'll learn from my mistake i just know you will.
optional:
cooler & filter installed
Hayden Power Steering Cooler #1009
Magnefine 3/8" Inline Magnetic Transmission/Power Steering Filter #R038M
fyi;
this cooler comes with 4' 3/8 power steering return hose too.
optional electric vacuum pump info link;
Electric Vacuum Pump Conversion (Hydroboost Brakes only) for 92.5-94 IDI w/ Serp Belt in 6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels
required:
it is imperative that you use the F-450 brake pedal when using the F-450's hydroboost unit in the stock bolt hole locations.the pivot pin location is different and it's vital for proper operation and driver comfort.
if you have a manual trans,then you need the manual trans f-450 brake pedal.
trans type and year specific.ask for help in the forums to find out just which pedal you'll need to source! this just happens to be the pedal my truck required.
be sure to see laserjock's thread here for assistance.where he,others and especially riotwarrior have done extensive research on the very subject to help us all:
Hydroboost Brake Pedal
the 92-97 brake pedals.pickup vs f-super (f-super is without pedal pad)
the f-super clearly has the pin higher up for a more straight positioning of the push rod along with increased leverage.
the numbers stamped on the 92-97 (9th gen) F-Super Duty (pre- F450) AUTO TRANS brake pedal are as follows:
F2TA-2455
i almost forgot to add in my favorite saying! and this is literally the case,to help put things into perspective!........
nothing else you do will come close to adding stopping power to your pickup.going hydroboost from vacuum,adds more stopping power to your truck,than any of the turbo kit's add hp to the n/a idi engine!
and a lot of us know just how big of an upgrade a turbo kit is over n/a! so use caution when applying the brakes after your hydro swap and insure your seat belts are fastened tightly!
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