Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Mikey89014, Mar 13, 2013.
Its a 6.9 with a rain damaged cylinder. Yhe glow plug was loose and rain got in that cylindetr
However the .030 job didnt remove it 100 % , maybe 90%
Would defintley want to have that engine sleeved. I wouldn't want to run that engine with that in there. Defintley will increase blow by when the rings pass that location. And of course, could be cavitation. Even if it's not cavitation, if that spot caused any sort of imperfection on the other side of the cylinder it will give cavitation a nucleation site and will become a cavitated hole in the cylinder.
If its a 6.9 itl be fine unless its a very rare circumstance, rings wont care. But if it is cavitation , I will say I told you so.
I would look into the coolant jacket and you can see the area of the pit from the back side.
The deck surface is thick, you have to see where it starts to get thinner, it looks like you are
safe and it is just a rust hole. Wont hurt anything while running.
Cavitation usually happens lower down middle of the cylinder not toward the top of the cylinder.
Also cavitation is never just one pin hole it is multiple holes in the same location and usually in multiple cylinders.
7.3 at .030 are actually fine. Mine is at .020 and a sonic check showed .225 thickest and .175 thinnest
I would not sweat it and run it.
Actually i was mistaken. It is on the #2 cylinder on the driver side , and the pit is on the outer edge, about 1 inch down from the deck surface . From the looks of it , it is about .005 deep
Whored and boned......
Personally, I would just bite the bullet and have it sleeved. It's not that horrible money wise, and then you simply don't ever have to wonder, or worry.
! backseat driver! 1 INCH under the deck surface? ! a 6.9 to boot! love internet advice! ROFLMAO!
Your perfectly fine dont listen to the flat earthers...
I'd run it now that it is clear that it is a 6.9.
If it's just a deep pit on the surface, you could be fine other than the possibility of increased blowby. The idea of creating a nucleation site for cavitation, mentioned by yARIC008 above, is a possibility... especially since the block has been bored (or boned ( : < ) 0.030". It would be simple to sonic test the block in that area and if there is plenty of meat, the cavitation thing then becomes a very remote possibility. From the description, if I read it right, it's in that area where cavitation most often occurs but good cooling system maintenance can forestall cavitation. A sonic test might help you sleep better at night. The sure, 100% cure is to sleeve that cylinder but that's another $100, or so added to the bill.
FWIW, if this were me, I'd sleeve it. I think long term and what's going to be happening 100K down the road. I ALWAYS regret most what I DIDN'T do when I had the chance.
We are just trying to help you with your engine situation. Many of us would hate for you to put your engine back together and see something go wrong with it because that will just cost you more time and money. If it were me, I would get it sleeved and not worry about it again. It is better to be on the safe side IMO. It, however, could be fine and run a few 100k like that....who knows. I would take the advice from the members that have been here a while, and not someone's "know it all" opinion/theory that likes to slam everyone else for being wrong because they think they know everything. I like to keep my ears open to learn more things. Seems to be more productive.
Well finally getting the questions answered and seeing its a 6.9 just run it. I don't feel any blowby will happen in that small of an area. Think how fast the piston is traveling going past that area. The piston spped in feet per second is amazing. To be honest the only way to be 100% sure is to sleeve it but running it the way it is now will tel you if money should have been spent when you had the engine apart. But I think you will be fine. The 6.9 cylinders are much thicker than the 7.3 which is know for the cavation issues but any diesel can cavitate too.. Even the big Cats use a coolant to protect the liners. Good luck and try it out.. You may be surprised to find its a great running engine with no problems.
Having had water in the bore I think it's just a deep rust pit. Suboptimal, but shouldn't cause any issues.
If it's cavitation you'd have significant coolant leakage into that cylinder and be able to push a pick or something through the spot into the water jacket.
Cavitation is going to show up on the water side - pitting on the cylinder side means it eaten all the way through already so it should be very easy to diagnose.
Not going to be a cavitation nucleation site on the cylinder side of the wall..... might be a bit more likely to cavitate at the corrosponding spot on the water side due to the slightly weaker cylinder wall and more flexing but I doubt it's going to make a difference.
Assuming it's just a pit all you'll get slightly more blowby and oil burning but I doubt it's enough to matter.
Cavitation is a scary monster, but it's also important to really understand what you're dealing with.... that kind of a pit on the water side would very likely be cavitation and cause for serious worry. On the cylinder side on a cylinder that had water and rust issues? Much more likely to just be a rust pit IMHO. Certainly could cause a weak spot and bite you down the road, but no the end of the world either.
BTW, 'hone,' not 'whone'
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