Bypassing the Glow Plug Controller 6.9l IHC

[LCAM-01XA]

Moving the thing from one part of the fender to another won't really work tho, I think it gets its heat through its base (it normally lives on the intake, so tis a good heat sink). Just leave it as is. As for wiring being a pain, did you move the wires over like in that pic, with that the only wire you need to run yourself is a key-on positive wire for a trigger, everything else shouldn't need moved.

 

[seawalkersee]

There was only one wire on the factory one I got with the harness. Not sure what happened to the other one but I SHOULD be really close to starting it up. I still have not had anyone tell me what the silver relay with the "T" shaped connector was in my other thread. I THINK I can pretty much cut that one out now that I am going to a different controller and a 3g alt.

Chris

 

[seawalkersee]

Okay...I have a question. I can jump the two center points and it clicks on and off a few times. But it will not do it with the key. I have it setup the way you guys said to do it. So why does it cycle like that?

SWS

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Wait, where are you jumping it? if you jump between the small terminals you're just shorting the relay so it will not engage (or at least shouldn't), if you're jumping between the fat ones that's a big no-no as now those 200A heating up the glowplugs are flowing through the jumper. So yeah, you're putting the jumper between which terminals?

 

[seawalkersee]

Jumpin the big ones with a screw driver for 5 sec or so. I just want the thing to work wiyh yhe key.

SWS

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Did you run a 12V key-on wire to the small terminal? Is your ground (small black wire) good? Also, dunno if it actually makes a difference, but do you have the whole controller/relay assembly mounted on the plastic inner fender, or on the big horizontal metal plate on the fender? May wanna try adding a ground to one of the two bolts that hold the controller assembly to whatever you have it sitting on...

 

[seawalkersee]

I do have a "key on" switch. Also, I have it mounted to the inner (plastic) fender. I will add another ground. Now, I left the white covered one alone. if I jump that, will that make it work automatically? I have it hooked to the other wire (key switch) and right now, there is no power to the resistor strip.

SWS

 

[LCAM-01XA]

wait, where do you have the white wire hooked up to, the key-on wire? It needs to be on the other small post of the relay, so you have the key-on wire on one of the small posts, and the white wire on the other, if you have these two wires on one post there ain't nothing to close the relay control circuit and thus trigger the relay. Tell ya this, can you take a picture of the controller the way you have it now?

 

[seawalkersee]

No. I have the key power on the opposite side from the white one. I will try to get a picture today.

SWS

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Hmm, that's pretty odd then - hopefully the pics will clarify it a bit...

 

[seawalkersee]

As promised. Nothing on the white side, and the key wire DOES have power to it. Yet the only way I can get it to have power is to jump it. I am going to take it back on Friday and make them order me a new one.

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By the way, how does it get 6 volts?

SWS

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Okay that's exactly how mine is wired as well... the green wires with the fusible links are the ones leading to your glowplugs, correct? Everything seems fine to me man, can't see why it wouldn't work... One last test - pull that rubber cap off the post for the white wire, pull the white wire off, put the ignition key in "run" to power the controller, the ground the post for the white wire to the negative terminal of the battery, or another suitable good ground - if you hear the relay click it is good and the problem is with the controller under it, if there's no click the relay is bad and needs replaced (just the relay tho, it can be separated from the controller).

Oh, and by the way, these fusible links don't look all that great, I'd probably replace them with a 250A megafuse or something of that sort.

 

[seawalkersee]

Not a big deal to replace the whole thing. It is less than a month old as it sits so they BETTER take it back since it has never worked. As far as the links, one project at a time man. I have to get it running before the big white snow comes to town. Well....at least I WANT to get it running first.

SWS

 

[seawalkersee]

So...30ish degrees yesterday and I went to start it. New GPC and it clicks on/off, on/off, on/off, etc. Why? It does not give a solid power signal to the plugs and it would not start. So, I get under the hood and jump it for 3-5 seconds and it fires up. Why does it not stay on?

SWS

P.S. Where did you guys put your engine temp sensors? Since I do not have an engine light, I am/was going to run it on the drivers side head. I have to get a pic of it, but I KNOW I am going to need HGs before too long.

 

[Agnem]

Rapid clicking of the contactor would indicate that the GPC is sensing a high resistance path in the glow plug circuit. This usually indicates blown glow plugs, bad wiring, or a faulty GPC ground. There is a potential for a lot of resistance to creep into this circuit with the GPC so far from the glow plugs. I would run the black ground wire directly to the engine block. The 6.9 engine harness connector could potentially have a few ohms in it. The GPC does not need to be mounted on the engine to sense heat, so that is not a factor. Try measureing the voltage at the GPC, and at one of the glow plugs while you have the contactor manually jumped. You will need 2 volt meters to do this sucessfully, that are accurate within a tenth of each other, since as the glow plugs heat, the voltage will increase. There is not enough time to move the probe of one meter. The voltage at the plugs should start out low, say around 6 or 7 volts, and increase towards battery voltage at the end of the 10 second glow window.