Before I screw this up
- Thread starter BrianX128
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For the wiring of the gauge this is the diagram they gave me. When nothing worked, I went and hooked the 12v directly to the positive battery terminal. Ground to negative. If this thing works anything like I thought it did shouldn't the terminal for red to the thermocoupler have power? because I could touch that lead directly to metal and there was no spark as if the power wasn't actually going through the wires to the probe to begin with. I tried the black thermocoupler wire as well just to make sure and it had no power from the gauge either.
The wiring diagram doesn't even make sense though. Totally ignore the light power stuff, and just look at the "ground" and thermocoupler black arrows, those have metal touching each other so how would the resistance of the probe ever send a different signal to the gauge to begin with? This whole thing seems jacked up.
Either way, I think I'm almost over this gauge system. I have a 1/8 threaded hole in the exhaust manifold, I can fit probably about a 2 1/2 or so probe in it, anyone have a better suggestion for a known good gauge I could install in the hole that's already in the manifold without re-drilling stuff? I really at this point don't care what the price is for a better known good working system I just after messing with this thing this morning don't think it's gonna work period.
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Well I went ahead and ordered an isspro ev2 that came with a thermocoupler and all the junk. Said the thermocoupler was 1/8npt so hopefully I can thread it in the same hole in the manifold and move on.I still wanna mess with this one since I'm off tomorrow and see if I can bring it to life but I have my doubts. Just makes no sense from the wiring diagram as to how it would ever work.
The part about the thermocoupler wires must power separately
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Do you have a picture of the thermocouple wires?? Typically it's a type k thermocouple which uses yellow (+) and red (-) wires. I'm not really sure why the gauge requires power other than the lights. Have to go look at mine. It's a Banks. The gauge is measuring a temperature dependent voltage that is caused by joining two different metal wires.
Thermocouple does not require power.
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So I should (outside of the light wires) only have two wires connected to the back? Both from the thermocoupler and I'd assume one to the right and left posts since the middle post is a shared connection... this thing is strange
So here is my gauge.
There are literally 2 pins on the back for the thermocouple wires. Unless that gauge has a built in amplifier for some strange reason, I don't know why it needs power. If you want to know if the probe is good, connect it up to a volt meter. First check resistance. It should be really small. Second switch over to DC voltage lowest scale you have and hold the the probe in your hand or under your arm. The voltage should increase. It will be millivolts but should be noticeable. As for the gauge, I have no idea. Like I said, unless it has an internal amplifier, I don't know why it would need power.
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There are literally 2 pins on the back for the thermocouple wires. Unless that gauge has a built in amplifier for some strange reason, I don't know why it needs power. If you want to know if the probe is good, connect it up to a volt meter. First check resistance. It should be really small. Second switch over to DC voltage lowest scale you have and hold the the probe in your hand or under your arm. The voltage should increase. It will be millivolts but should be noticeable. As for the gauge, I have no idea. Like I said, unless it has an internal amplifier, I don't know why it would need power.
Ok, I'll give it a shot tomorrow morning (I'm at work now.. kinda) maybe that middle post doesn't do anything at all and the left and right posts are all I need to hook to the probe.
Better question is how the seller has sold 694 of these with those instructions and has a good rating..
Better question is how the seller has sold 694 of these with those instructions and has a good rating..
The other reason I can see it not working is if the polarity is switched on the gauge wires. If they are reversed, it would drive it negative or hold it against the pin.
Edit: might try looking at the wires closer to the probe. Like I said they should normally be yellow and red. If they "simplified it" to red and and black the genius soldering on the new leads might not have known red is negative.
Edit: might try looking at the wires closer to the probe. Like I said they should normally be yellow and red. If they "simplified it" to red and and black the genius soldering on the new leads might not have known red is negative.
I thought I had tried everything combination wise this morning but that was also trying to use power and ground on the probes.
I guess I'll sit the gauge on the engine bay pull the probe wires back through the firewall and poke at the thing with a bunch of wires tomorrow. Haha it's hard to have a more descriptive plan unfortunately.
I probably already ruined the probe by sending positive volts to it by accident with these garbage directions quite honestly.. who knows
I guess I'll sit the gauge on the engine bay pull the probe wires back through the firewall and poke at the thing with a bunch of wires tomorrow. Haha it's hard to have a more descriptive plan unfortunately.
I probably already ruined the probe by sending positive volts to it by accident with these garbage directions quite honestly.. who knows
True. I guess I'll test that first and if it looks like it still works then I'll begin trying random combinations of wiring with the gauge.
Maybe I can get it to work and when the isspro gauge arrives I can steal that for my truck...
Maybe I can get it to work and when the isspro gauge arrives I can steal that for my truck...
I read online while searching for these types of issues to try and take a double a battery tape a wire to each side and touch the different posts on the back to see if you can get the needle to move on the gauge and had dad try it at home and it will not move.
Starting to think the thing is just f*cking junk in general in all ways shapes and forms.
Starting to think the thing is just f*cking junk in general in all ways shapes and forms.
That would work unless it's amplified. If it's amplified, you will need the 12v to the gauge before a AA will do anything.
Edit. Went and found the listing it must be amplified. It says you have to have the external power. Not saying it can't be NFG. It may be.
Edit. Went and found the listing it must be amplified. It says you have to have the external power. Not saying it can't be NFG. It may be.
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