ATS 088 Custom Intake. Where to connect CDR tube?

[NOAH MATTEOLI]

Thanks for the suggestion. Im not sure how much blow by is too much but I do have a steady mist at idle. Very light though. I got the intake plumbed in and trying get to figure out a way to mount the cdr now. Probably going to have to fabricate a bracket to hold it and figure out a way to attach the intake side nipped to my intake tube since it's plastic and not sure that it will support the weight and vibration. Am planning on reusing the ats valve cover tube.

 

[NOAH MATTEOLI]

mist is normal... for that mileage... still I would just keep an eye on it...if you start building sludge as mileage and oil consumption increases...I would just dump it down to save your head gaskets. Exhaust gasses building above 1000- 1200 is ******* idi. 7.3. Ive been a truck driver for 14 yrs...and at 1100..I would split a gear and back off the hammer. As far as your crank case... just dump it on the ground...

 

[reklund]

Nice!
Got $0.02 tho
If you put the cdr valve after the intercooler you can keep that oily mess out of it

Can't mount the CDR on a pressurized tube after the turbo. It must be on the "suction" side between the turbo and the filter in order to work properly. I'd love to keep the oil out of the IC, but it doesn't seem to hurt it any.

 

[pelky350]

View media item 152Mines a small complicated mess I used to get by but still is working so never changed it . used ats 088 oil tube into valve cover, and used two coolant hoses from advanced auto that looked about the shape I wanted to make it run to my intake and have a hole in the side of the pipe the hose fits very smug into. CD-R valve just kinda hangs out held up by the hose no leaks so far I've noticed seems to be functioning well. We basically have the same intake I just placed my filter behind the coolent and washer resiviors with a random cold air box from salivage yard and largest Spector air filter I found at advanced auto one day

 

[shawn deere]

Can't mount the CDR on a pressurized tube after the turbo. It must be on the "suction" side between the turbo and the filter in order to work properly. I'd love to keep the oil out of the IC, but it doesn't seem to hurt it any.

You are correct, i forgot about the pressure from the turbo

 

[Josh_Deal]

So what kind of numbers boost wise should I be seeing under acceleration running empty? I can hear the turbo moan in the cab upon acceleration that increases in pitch as the speed increases and I have a pretty good whistle from the intake. In my test run last night I was seeing about 5lbs max at just under 3k rpm. Max egt's read were around 900 or so. That's not taking into account the location of the thermocoupler in the factory location in the snail housing or that my isspro gauge reads 100 degrees cold. I always try to keep the egts under 900 degrees at all times. Usually, unless I'm getting on it pretty hard my Temps stay between 300-600 degrees. I have increased fuel in the ip by exactly 2 flats and get a good bit of coal out the pipe but not excessive amounts. I'm running 3 inch straight pipe all the way back to a 4 inch tip. Also... Not sure if it makes a difference or not but the y-collector pipe that feeds the crossover pipe to the drivers side and the passengers side exhaust manifold has a leak at the flange. I tried to get it sealed but the slip joint at the snail housing makes it dang near impossible to get that thing tight. That's another issue that I know needs to be fixed but don't know how to go about doing it.

 

[Josh_Deal]

Wanted to add that I am running a zf-5 as well.

 

[Greg5OH]

I ran 20-25 psi all day. zero HG issues. Dont be shy, giver some pressure

Saweet!
Could you post some pics for me? I might be doing the same thing
Hauling cows at 25,000# my egts got 1,150 and was rocking 6psi boost. Ive got some exhaust leaks preturbo to chase down though. I aslo have the waste gate disabled. I feel comfortable running 10-12psi without head studs

 

[Josh_Deal]

Ok. So I think I'm done. Went back and forth on what to do about the cdr and decided to just reuse it. At this point it is working and I really don't want to introduce oil leaks in the system or have to deal with any oily smell from the valve being unattached. Ended up replacing almost everything I had originally bought for it and finally got it all working. I drilled and mounted the cdr directly to the intake tube and re-used the ats 088 kit grommet that attaches to the cdr bottom port to the valve cover. Found a short piece of hose and attached it with hose clamps. Looks good and seems to work with no issues. The ride home will tell for sure though. Here are a few pics of the finished setup.

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[Macrobb]

I have heard some horror stories featuring the spectre filter but this is only temporary until I can get a 6637. I just purchased a 5th wheel camper and it will be my first time towing this heavy so wanted to get everything set up before I go pick it up. Hopefully nothing will come apart during my 40 mile trip there and back.

I've had nothing but good lock with my spectre/knock-off Ebay filters. They are just cotton with layers of mesh on both sides, and I haven't had them come apart when soaked with water or oil. They also seem to do a better job when coated with oil like the K&Ns, but I've always over-oiled mine - It's not like I care if a little oil gets into the intake or anything.

 

[Hydro-idi]

I've had nothing but good lock with my spectre/knock-off Ebay filters. They are just cotton with layers of mesh on both sides, and I haven't had them come apart when soaked with water or oil. They also seem to do a better job when coated with oil like the K&Ns, but I've always over-oiled mine - It's not like I care if a little oil gets into the intake or anything.

Spectre filters do a great job at letting large amounts of dirt into your turbo & engine. K&N isn't much better IMO. We had a member on here find lots of dirt in his intake manifold after using a spectre filter after a week or so of use. After I saw that, I took mine off same day & bought an AEM dryflow when I ran the Ats 088 on my rig. Some like em some don't. Just my .02

 

[DaveBen]

Yeah K&N is garbage also. I found dust in the intake passage when I was running one. Took it off immediately. NEVER again!

 

[Macrobb]

Spectre filters do a great job at letting large amounts of dirt into your turbo & engine. K&N isn't much better IMO. We had a member on here find lots of dirt in his intake manifold after using a spectre filter after a week or so of use. After I saw that, I took mine off same day & bought an AEM dryflow when I ran the Ats 088 on my rig. Some like em some don't. Just my .02

Oil the filter and it will work fine. The K&N-style cotton filters filter more by the 'stickyness' of the oil than anything else, so you can't run them dry.
Add a layer of light oil(they sell a kit for this exact thing), and it'll do a much better job.

 

[pelky350]

So what kind of numbers boost wise should I be seeing under acceleration running empty? I can hear the turbo moan in the cab upon acceleration that increases in pitch as the speed increases and I have a pretty good whistle from the intake. In my test run last night I was seeing about 5lbs max at just under 3k rpm. Max egt's read were around 900 or so. That's not taking into account the location of the thermocoupler in the factory location in the snail housing or that my isspro gauge reads 100 degrees cold. I always try to keep the egts under 900 degrees at all times. Usually, unless I'm getting on it pretty hard my Temps stay between 300-600 degrees. I have increased fuel in the ip by exactly 2 flats and get a good bit of coal out the pipe but not excessive amounts. I'm running 3 inch straight pipe all the way back to a 4 inch tip. Also... Not sure if it makes a difference or not but the y-collector pipe that feeds the crossover pipe to the drivers side and the passengers side exhaust manifold has a leak at the flange. I tried to get it sealed but the slip joint at the snail housing makes it dang near impossible to get that thing tight. That's another issue that I know needs to be fixed but don't know how to go about doing it.

The leak at the flange and anywhere on the pressure side effects it a lot!! Mine leaked at the y area and I only made 5 psi max, sealed it with a tailpipe sealer from knects then ran 9 psi max, added bigger pump and injectors now max boost at 3k 3rd gear is almost 20psi! 4 inch exhaust after Dow pipe helps spoil faster and wrapping the long uppipe helps as well. Our intakes are almost identical set up I haven't had any isues yet for 20k.

 

[shawn deere]

The leak at the flange and anywhere on the pressure side effects it a lot!! Mine leaked at the y area and I only made 5 psi max, sealed it with a tailpipe sealer from knects then ran 9 psi max, added bigger pump and injectors now max boost at 3k 3rd gear is almost 20psi! 4 inch exhaust after Dow pipe helps spoil faster and wrapping the long uppipe helps as well. Our intakes are almost identical set up I haven't had any isues yet for 20k.

Good to know!!
I have a terrible leak at the Y
I plan on getting it fixed and going 4" back too