Anybody have a good ear,,

[Trevtron]

My 83 had a new Oregon Fuel Injection pump, Delphi BB code injectors, return lines, lift pump, solid state glow plus controller and motorcraft GP's.

I had made a slight timing adjustment retarding it 1/2 a dime's thickness (She's timed by ear) and won't be getting equipment for her for about 3-4 weeks...so after that I guessed on the idle curb speed adjustment.

Anybody have an opinion on the fast idle speed and diesel sound on this "cold" start? I'm in Texas and it only got down to 36 last night, ha ha...but grew up in Alaska and we had an 85 6.9 for over 20yrs and remember what a REAL cold start is!

What do y'all think about where I have it set for now? It's a dime & 1/2 advanced from the factory scribe mark and I know because it's not the factory pump that may not mean squat

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[icanfixall]

First item is you really NEED to get it timed or find someone near you in this forum with a timing meter. You are correct about the factory timing mark.. they mean nothing as far as timing once the factory original pump is replaced. I also do not hear the fast idle working nor much advance either. You should hear more powerstroke rattle from the cold advance.

 

[IDIoit]

x2, eyes and a meter is a lot better than 2 good ears.

 

[Trevtron]

Cold idle advance and high idle solenoid work, I had just retarded it to far and turned down the idle to far. I'll get equipment on her, sucks flying blind. Was afraid I was to far advance before.
Because after the advance would kick off while I was driving the engine would only have slightly but noticeably less rattle...and I was getting black smoke at a little over 1/2 throttle.

Every little adjustment I've noticed is pretty significant, I've must have tried to tweak it about 7-8 times while listening for difference, watching smoke and mileage

I'll advance timing slightly and bump up the idle screw about 3/4 turn for now

 

[IDIoit]

I have had my fuel timing all over the proverbial map.
on build, or IP replacement. i start with the marks.
upon start up, if I didn't have a timer, I would adjust it by clatter.
if you get it to where you have a noticeable change in clatter when the advance is on,
but gets quieter when it kicks off,
you wont hurt anything driving it until you get a meter on it.
like always watch the EGT's
but get it timed.

you edited your "flying blind"
I would agree, because if you search the forum for "timing rental"
several of @icanfixall s timing meter rentals would have popped up.

 

[F350camper]

cool winch!

 

[Trevtron]

Thanks it's an old but lightly used 8274!! Advanced that timing slightly and turned up the idle speed, it did sound kind of flat earlier.

If anybody around Houston or within 200miles of it knows who has timing equipment I'll make it worth their time to help me.

I'll leave her where it's at until I get my own gear in the next few weeks or get help first, ultimately I believe it's important to have the timing equipment in our tool box when we own these old rigs. Modern shops are about worthless when it comes to their knowledge base on them, most techs are younger than the truck!!

Cold start after timing advanced:

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After cold advance and high idle kicked down:

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You got to love the basic design and ruggedness of these ol trucks, and we don't have to worry about computers and adding exhaust fluid!!!

 

[Trevtron]

I have had my fuel timing all over the proverbial map.
on build, or IP replacement. i start with the marks.
upon start up, if I didn't have a timer, I would adjust it by clatter.
if you get it to where you have a noticeable change in clatter when the advance is on,
but gets quieter when it kicks off,
you wont hurt anything driving it until you get a meter on it.
like always watch the EGT's
but get it timed.

you edited your "flying blind"
I would agree, because if you search the forum for "timing rental"
several of @icanfixall s timing meter rentals would have popped up.

I had been reading the forum for a while and saw that he offers that service. I'll shoot him a PM.
And I did the same thing as you had for the last few weeks, watching mileage and would drive it at a steady speed/rpm while cold advance was on to monitor the change in clatter as it disengages. It's unessecarly frustrating when like you said people on here have offered a helping hand with timing equipment.
I'm going to get some gauges to, don't trust the needle "idiot gauges"

Fortunately my wife has been very positive about me throwing money at this old rig as it was my late granddad's truck.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Cold start RPM should be 950 to 1000, Idle RPM should be 650 to 700. Truck sounds good to me in difference from cold to warm. You can adjust the cold idle on the solenoid plunger with a 1/4" open end wrench

 

[Trevtron]

Appreciate you watching the videos and commenting.
I had adjusted the plunger and when trucks warm I had left about a credit card's thickness between the throttle lever and the plunger head, I need to get a tach installed eventually

 

[IDIoit]

do you have the tach sensor in your IP housing?

http://www.oilburners.net/threads/aftermarket-vdo-tachometer.76123/

 

[Trevtron]

I sure don't, good looking tach though. I've read people have swapped for a 7.3 Injection Pump housing for that tach sensor

 

[IDIoit]

late 6.9's have them too

http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-94-Ford-...ash=item2efaa06014:g:-R4AAOSwnbZYGYjm&vxp=mtr

 

[icanfixall]

Yes I continue to rent the kent moore J33300-A timing meter. It comes with all the tools required to adjust the pump. I give my cell number and you can call me any time day or night with timing questions. Fee is $70.00 with free shipping to you for a 5 day rental.
I start the 5 day count on the day after you receive the meter cause I do not know what time you get the meter. I ship thru USPS flat rate. When you are done you pay the one way shipping of the meter back to me. Ebay has these meters regulary. Just do a search there to see what the meter looks like. They do appear very complex because they can time 4 different ways most any engine. I send them out set for the clamp magnetic probe plus timing method. That way you have no need to shoot a light at timing marks. the meter does all the rpm and timing for you thru its microprocessor. Just connect 2 probes. Power up the meter and press one rocker switch. then start the engine and rev it to 2000 by hand watching the rpm and the timing. Its that simple. If you find a kent moore or other timing meter and want my opinion on it I will tell you if its a good deal and a complete meter. Beware because some on ebay are not complete. New these are $800.00 meters. Probes like the magnetic probe will cost around $375.00 if its missing or broken. Hope this helps you understand what timing is from my point.

 

[Macrobb]

If you do get the timing meter, I'm curious where you ended up by ear, and then what the meter shows and how she 'feels' after you adjust per the meter.

Also, for the OP - as you have it timed right now, what does it sound like when on the highway at 60-ish in top gear? No clatter? Little clatter? Lots of clatter?