Added two more doors.

Leeland

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Well this otta be fun.
 

Leeland

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Wasn't sure how the cooler would turn out, color scheme looked horrible on the table. On the engine though, I think I'm ok with it. What a pita to assemble too. Used plenty of power punch and it was still a ordeal.

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Cleaning bolt holes and about to start pressing on bearings.

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The carrier is about done besides installing and torqueing the new supplied bolts. I read the cool thing to do is use ring gear bolts from a Dana 70 due to keeping torque better because the bolts are shouldered. I didn't budget for that so it's not getting them.
 
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laserjock

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Like the oil cooler. Almost did something like that myself.
 

Leeland

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The upside to it is it may help id a leak.^^


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One last surprise. Shim doesn't do much good not compressed.

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Left bearing cap mating surface in the center chunk. I'm thinking it could be a possible cause or contributor for the side bearing failure. Cap has matching marks. Has some above and below the saddle. Same side that the ship walked.
 

austin92

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Not quite the project you have going on but I'm swapping a 10.25 trutrac and 3.73s in to my 83. I have a thread about setting up axles/gears if you have any pointers or knowledge to share. Like to see some of these pictures over there :)


1983 f350 6.9 zf5 2wd srw single cab long bed. Facet duralift, optima red tops, bfg all terrains, 4" exhaust from y pipe back, autometer z series pyro, pump turned up 2 flats
 

Leeland

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Not quite the project you have going on but I'm swapping a 10.25 trutrac and 3.73s in to my 83. I have a thread about setting up axles/gears if you have any pointers or knowledge to share. Like to see some of these pictures over there :)


1983 f350 6.9 zf5 2wd srw single cab long bed. Facet duralift, optima red tops, bfg all terrains, 4" exhaust from y pipe back, autometer z series pyro, pump turned up 2 flats

I am very rusty at diff work. It's not my thing and have been drawing on the knowledge from a fellow member as well as the book that came with the diff for some refreshers. Here's a link that was passed onto me, there is a chart with torque specs and the pinion bearing preload rotational drag spec.
http://www.differentials.com/technical-help/installation-instructions
And here's a electronic version of the book supplied with the carrier.
http://www.eaton.com/ecm/idcplg?Idc...eased&Rendition=Primary&&dDocName=PCT_1087652
And per a resource I forgot I had that used to be with Randy's Ring and pinion as well as Yukon, carrier bearing preload is .005" per side after backlash. I've been told .002" per side from a good source that's been in these axles. I don't really want to steer you one way or the other so do look into it for your self.
 

austin92

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I am very rusty at diff work. It's not my thing and have been drawing on the knowledge from a fellow member as well as the book that came with the diff for some refreshers. Here's a link that was passed onto me, there is a chart with torque specs and the pinion bearing preload rotational drag spec.
http://www.differentials.com/technical-help/installation-instructions
And here's a electronic version of the book supplied with the carrier.
http://www.eaton.com/ecm/idcplg?Idc...eased&Rendition=Primary&&dDocName=PCT_1087652
And per a resource I forgot I had that used to be with Randy's Ring and pinion as well as Yukon, carrier bearing preload is .005" per side after backlash. I've been told .002" per side from a good source that's been in these axles. I don't really want to steer you one way or the other so do look into it for your self.

I have that website book marked and I got the book with my truetrac :). I've never set up a set of gears before but I'm confident. Are those carrier bearing preload numbers for side to side movement? See, this is why you should post up in my rear axle setup thread lol


1983 f350 6.9 zf5 2wd srw single cab long bed. Facet duralift, optima red tops, bfg all terrains, 4" exhaust from y pipe back, autometer z series pyro, pump turned up 2 flats
 

Leeland

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I'd feel better about it after I work through the stuff I'm dealing with on my junk first.

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Attempted to reinstall the same shims back in the spots I pulled them out of. Ring gear side shim shattered and I don't even consider the amount of force I was using excessive. I don't know if I posted a pic but it did have some damage from the race walking/spinning.


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Quick down and dirty tool to be able to press the inner pinion bearing back on.


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Drove new races in. Reinstalled the pinion temporarily back in the case. No seal, old crush sleeve and nut. Torqued until I got a drag I was happy with.

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Remaining old shim on the ring gear side, shimmed up the right side until I had no side to side play.

So here's where I'm at with this thing. In a previous posted pic you can see a gap between the inner pinion bearing and the pinion gear. This caused damage to the shim by allowing it to spin. The best measurement I could get from it was .026". I went with .030" because of the fact the shim was missing some material and felt it was as close as I'll get for now. And since I didn't crush a new sleeve or install the seal it's pretty easy to change later if need be and won't cost any more money in additional parts. How ever depending on what kind of pattern I get I may bite the bullet and buy a pinion depth gauge.
And as seen in this post, I completely fawked a shim up. About the 3rd tap and it desentigrated. Wasn't tapping on it directly, was using a brass drift and just moderate force. Walked away from it for a couple days after that. Both the old shims were in the .270+ range. And it was super tight. After the second tap I was pretty much committed, on the one that shattered the shim I changed direction because I did not like how tight it was. Pretty much locked the carrier up from turning. I inspected the bearings and races after, didn't see anything to suggest they wouldn't live. So with this it's obvious the new carrier is wider. With the pinion in and with a drag I'm ok with I set the carrier back in with the remaining old shimon the ring gear side. It only took .220 to take up the slack on the right side. With out caps it's stiff one way and starts binding the other direction. I got no back lash after snugging caps which were marked while pulling it down. From here I'm just going to swap the shims side to side to shift the ring gear over the .050" and see what that gets me.



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Edit: finished swapping shims around. Netted a backlash of .028" with the caps on. Kinda looking like I won't be using the remaining old shim. Not running a pattern at this point. Carrier needs to get shimmed more to the right and it's Jack and Coke O'clock.
 
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austin92

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How did you set up the press to press on the inner pinion bearing? On mine, it looks like I'm going to have to use some sort of pipe the diameter of the bearing because if I just use arbor plates like I did on the carrier bearings, it will touch the cage before the inner part of the bearing I need to be applying the force to


1983 f350 6.9 zf5 2wd srw single cab long bed. Facet duralift, optima red tops, bfg all terrains, 4" exhaust from y pipe back, autometer z series pyro, pump turned up 2 flats
 

Leeland

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Second pic down is the inner race to the old inner pinion bearing. I cut the cage off, took a grinder to the inside to prevent it from attaching it's self to the shaft of the pinion. Not much of the shoulder on the shaft is exposed when the new bearing is fully seated so the whole race doesn't need to be hogged out. Maybe .25-5" or so. Stuck the pinion in the press face up/shaft down. Worked great.
 

austin92

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Second pic down is the inner race to the old inner pinion bearing. I cut the cage off, took a grinder to the inside to prevent it from attaching it's self to the shaft of the pinion. Not much of the shoulder on the shaft is exposed when the new bearing is fully seated so the whole race doesn't need to be hogged out. Maybe .25-5" or so. Stuck the pinion in the press face up/shaft down. Worked great.

Oh so you just used the inner race as the "driver" for the new bearing? That's genius, thanks man lol. I already honed out the entire old bearing so I can slide it off and on by hand while making shim adjustments setting pinion depth. After its set, I'll cut the cage off the set up bearing


1983 f350 6.9 zf5 2wd srw single cab long bed. Facet duralift, optima red tops, bfg all terrains, 4" exhaust from y pipe back, autometer z series pyro, pump turned up 2 flats
 

Leeland

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Polished some what. Spooned on a 315.
 
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Leeland

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Pretty beat subject. Just finally had to do them. The other week had a no start. Light came on, no audible click from the relay. Had couple known good relays on the shelf so wasn't worried about a failed relay. Put beru's on order just in case. Welp, ended up needing them today when I finally had time to look into it. After doing checks and finding voltage where I needed to I pulled the old gp's to find my engine had AC delco's in it. Every single one was open circuit. I guess if there was a preferred failure mode that would be it. None really swoll up except the one on the far right. It started to blow out a little near the tip. I've been running these since 2011, unknown install date as they where in the regular cab when I bought it.
 

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