Accurate diesel injectors, turbo vs non.

furfishgame

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I am looking at accurate doesels reman injectors for my 90 IDI, i recently put a turbo on it, and with 220000 on my stock injectors its time for some fresh ones and a IP as well. (Going witm a baby moose for that tho)

My question is what is the difference between the turbo and non turbo injectors? I know from the factory turbod trucks came with g code injectors, and those injectors were set to pop at around 2100, but ive heard not so great things about them. bb code injectors is what everyone is telling me to get, and those pop around 1900?
The guy at accurate didnt seem to know what code his injectors are.

Im looking for reliability and a good running truck. We also dont have any emissions tests where i live.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

cpdenton

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So, here is the thing. We have found over time that the only reputable injectors come from only a few sources. Please do yourself a favor and purchase from on of these. More money up front, but you won't need to replace them again in 3 months.

Mel at www.conestogadiesel.com

Justin at. Www.idiperformance.com

And I am not sure if typ4, a user on here, still has injectors.

Here is the reason why. You have to pop test these injectors and match up a set to all pop around the same number. This is important for the engine to run right. These sellers have all proven to give you good pop matched sets. Other retailers have not provided quality in these areas.

To your question, the codes don't really mean much anymore because most people rebuild them to BB code specs. It doesn't really matter a lot as long as they are all popping at the same pressure.
 

Hydro-idi

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BB's are the most popular injector code that many idi owners go with.
As for any type of reman injector, especially from accurate diesel, I would steer clear. Been there done that, and wasted lots of additional $ because I didn't want to shell out the cash for new ones many years ago.
I would personally go with stanadyne injectors. I have even had problems with new Delphi BB codes in the past. They don't seem to hold their pop pressure very well, and spray patterns are all over the place after about 10k miles. Delphi quality has definitely tanked over the years. Just my experience with them.

Russ aka typ4 sells quality injectors & pumps, along with many other things
Mel Agnem owns conestoga diesel and is another member that offers quality engine parts for our idi's.

FYI, here is a killer price for stanadyne injectors. They will serve you well.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/6-9L-7-3L-For...%3A7a9c8ee71590a787308234ddffc39709%7Ciid%3A5
 

furfishgame

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Thank you guys. Now, i am taking a look at idiperformance, he has stock and also stage 1 injectors. What difference am i looking at here? Im more than likely going with stock anyway so it prolly doesnt matter
 

cahner

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Mel's injectors from Conestoga Diesel will not disappoint. I went with the junior moose pump and moose misters and am extremely satisfied with the quality. They are everything promised.
 

typ4

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Buy the stanadynes. I have sold hundreds of them. Ignore all the crap you may have heard about needing "turbo" injectors. The turbo nor the engine cares.
R&D has a good product as do others.
I would love to sell you a set but if those stanadynes are on ebay tomorrow Im getting them all.
That seller is a good ebayer also. Ive dealt with him several times.
 

Macrobb

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I'm pretty happy with the ones I've gotten from R&D - effectively, he's got new injector nozzles from China.

Most of the other sellers just use old nozzles... which are the wear piece. So you'll buy a set that's probably decently pressure matched... 5K down the road, and the balance will be off, or you might even have a completely dead one.

The chinese reverse-engineered nozzles, well, they are actually new. And they work exactly as advertized.
I rebuild my own injectors these days, and there's a massive difference between a worn nozzle and a new one - Much tighter opening and closing pressures, as well as a lack of leaking.

The stage 1 nozzles are basically drilled out a bit, such that there's less seating surface near the tip. I wasn't sure about whether it would stay clean like that, but they seem to do just fine. I pulled my first set after like 20K or so miles, and they were all consistent to each other with no leaking.
 
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