7.3 idi injection pump air lock, Or something worse?

ConstantVigilance

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Hello and Happy New Year! I am the new owner of my first truck. It’s a 1992, 93, 94 F350 extended cab, with regular cab frame, 7.3idi 4x4 with a sidewinder turbo.

I have searched the forums and have in-deed found many owners who have had this same problem. Unfortunately, I haven’t read a follow up as to what the problem ended up being.

I bought the truck and it ran just fine (just needed a tranny), and after I removed the injector lines (swapped an extended cab and swapped a larger rear tank) to replace the glow plugs (the wrong brand was installed by PO), the truck wouldn’t start.

The problem: The injector pump will not move fuel into the injectors.

What I’ve tried: I made sure the fuel filter was topped off. Made sure the FSS solenoid is getting power. Disconnected the glow plug relay. Have the throttle pegged. I bleed the lines until I see no bubbles. But there were so many bubbles it was like a straw was inserted and someone blowing into it. Tons and tons of forceful air and I ran the batteries down 5 or 6 times… I thought no way fuel line had that much air.

The bubbles came in a pattern, as if following the motors revolutions: I isolate the mechanical pump (remove tank feeder line from mechanical pump and draw from a 5 gallon jug, than insert outgoing line into clear bottle, not even going into the filter) from the rest of the system: Same bubbles – same forcefulness. I THINK I have my culprit, and indeed, after replacing the mechanical pump, no more bubbles or air. Just a hard stream of fuel.

I bleed the injection pump FEED line and then hook it up. I crack one injector line and I run my batteries down 5 or 6 more times (I crank for about 25 seconds and wait 2 minutes while I have it on a 40 amp charger).

I DO GET fuel out of the top of the IP. When I have this line (bleed line?) running into a clear wine bottle, I get a hard stream of fuel that fills the bottle up at least 2 times before the starter starts losing steam.

I tried to force fuel through the IP via a hand pump (read this in a thread), but no luck. I would still get fuel out the top bleed line, but I decided to block off that line and I broke the hand pump (diesel everywhere – including my face – yuck).

I’ve spent 4 days trying every way and everything I can find online or think of. I have a feeling that I may have broken the original pump by trying too much, and may bust the new one. Now that the new pump is on, I have small amounts of bumbles escaping the fuel heater connector located on top of the filter housing. Only happens when I have the IP bleed line hooked plugged into were its suppose to go - otherwise, when i bleed into a bottle, no bubbles. I wasn’t seeing this before. Sorta makes me think I’ve broken something already.

The only thing I haven’t tried is a line bypassing the fuel filter.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for reading this post – and if you can point me to a thread that helps, it would be awesome.

Happy new year everyone!
 

Macrobb

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If you are getting fuel out of the IP return line, good. That takes care of that.
Do NOT block this line. It needs to flow freely, or the IP cannot actually inject; there needs to be a pressure differential inside the housing to actually work properly.

Now, crack /all/ the injector lines at the injector. Are you getting bubbles or fuel when cranked?
See this for my bleeding guide:
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

If you /are/, once you get fuel at each injector, you may have a problem starting due to other things.
I'd probably just disconnect the glow plugs and use a 1/2 second shot of ether into the air cleaner. It's safe enough AS LONG AS THE GLOW PLUGS ARE DISABLED.

If you are /not/ getting fuel at each injector, the IP may be stuck or something. Remove the IP lid(three screws/bolts on the top), and pull upwards; be really careful of the O-ring set into a groove in the lid.

Make sure that the metering valve moves freely. This video will show you what the parts are inside the IP:
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
(Note: you are /not/ modding the governor. Just making sure everything moves freely).


Post what you find.
 

ConstantVigilance

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Ok, I've removed the top cover and inspected the insides. It was full of fuel (don't know if that helps). The metering valve moves back and forth freely. I don't know what exactly it should look like or feel like, but there's no ugly stuff lol.
 

Macrobb

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OK, good.
Now, what's happening with the bleeding? No fuel or air, or fuel and air?
You might even try removing one injector line completely, to see if fuel is coming out of the IP where the line attaches.
 

ConstantVigilance

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I have fuel, but no air coming from the top of the Injection pump. I haven't tried sense I removed the top... Maybe feeling around in there made some sort of difference. ??

Assuming I get the same flow, what could I look at next?
 

Macrobb

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Pull one injector line off the IP, completely. Watch the IP port as you crank with the throttle floored.

What do you see?
 

ConstantVigilance

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Silly question, probably, but I'm gonna assume I have to put the cap back on. I was thinking for a second that maybe I was supposed to watch the IP while the cap was off and I was cranking.
 

ConstantVigilance

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I have the cap back on and the bleeder line going into a glass wine bottle. I removed one of the injector lines and started cranking with the throttle wide open.

Nothing came out of the IP.

I got fuel out of the top of IP, but no air after some cranking.

I did notice that the return line that the IP plugs into has fuel coming out of it when I crank. Sense I have it disconnected (to bleed into bottle) fuel really comes out.

I've noticed this on the other occasions but assumed it's normal.

I watched a video about the functionality of the IP, and the guy said if the return line is blocked, it will cause too much back pressure and shutdown the IP.

But why still am I not getting fuel, when I have that bleeding line disconnected from the return line?
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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doesn't sound promising.

ensure you put the cover back on properly.incorrectly,and she does fire up,she'll rev sky high and 'runaway' on you!
video/youtube search: 'diesel runaway' and see the danger.:D
 

ConstantVigilance

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Yup, I was carful about that. Double checked the clicking was there. Read about it in the forums and looked at a few pics that showed you how it had to go back on...

"Doesn't sound promising", for sure. I don't know how it could have had problems like this just sitting there, but I also realize that these are high tolerance gadgets.

Perhaps someone will come along with another idea. I'll wait and see... Have the flat bed to fabricate and the front bumper to modify for a new winch.

Perhaps I can pull one off a truck in the junkyard and just slap it in and off I go!!

Thanks for all your help - have a great year!
 

icanfixall

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Sounds like the injection pump has a blocked metering valve. Mi8ght try removing the filter and filling it with atf fluid. Try cranking till you see red fuel out the return on top. then let it sit over night. Possibly this will soften the stuck internals. This sometimes works on a pump that has sticky internals but those are running engines. you run the engine till you hear the sound change and shut down. Let sit over night and run the tires off it the next day. That usually cleans out the varnish on the internals.
 

ConstantVigilance

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Just out of curiosity:. Could there be a circumstance where the IP isn't turning?

Could something go wrong... Something simple... That would prevent it from rotating.

I don't think so, but I don't know much of anything. Is there a way I can check?
 

Macrobb

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I don't think so, but I don't know much of anything. Is there a way I can check?
If you pull the lid off and crank, you can watch the flyweights at the back of the IP spin as you crank.

At this point, I'd pull the IP. Just remove it and start playing with it.
Here's a guide detailing how it works and disassembly/reassembly:
http://www.stanadyne.com/docs/misc/99009 DB2 Manual.PDF

One thing I've done in the past was:
1. grab a spare battery, Find a cheap electric fuel pump, get a plastic tray/basin/container to catch spilled fuel.
2. Get a can of diesel, and run a hose from there to your electric pump, and then into the inlet of the IP
3. Connect power to the electric fuel pump, fuel shut off solenoid, and cold advance on the IP.
4. Move the throttle lever to 'floored' position.
5. Spin the IP shaft by hand clockwise when looking at the end, just as it spins in the truck.

You can now test/play with it without draining your battery. Fuel should come out of all 8 injector ports as you spin it, but that's what the tray is for.

You may also want to disassemble the rear center portion of the IP, where the fuel inlet is. There's a filter screen in there which could be clogged.
You can also remove and check the metering valve, etc. See the PDF for instructions.


If you can't fix it and need to get a new pump, I suggest http://idiperformance.com
They are a little more expensive than some other vendors, but they do good work, and you don't need to worry about your 'new' IP having a new set of problems like hot starting issues.
 
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