7.3 Fuel Heater Delete Pipe Plug

Status
Not open for further replies.

Stang65fst

Registered User
Joined
Dec 27, 2013
Posts
15
Reaction score
1
Location
Charlotte, NC
Not sure if this has been covered but I have an 1989 Ford FSuperduty wrecker. Which is the same motor as any F250 or F350.

Have put new injectors, glow plugs, Facet fuel pump, fuel filter, battery cables also deleted the hard return line running up the drivers side valley as well as rebuild the steering box.

I have rewired the glow plugs to a manual switch and ohm and metered each glow plug to verify it is working. I have been having a hard start issue, truck runs great with a puff a starting fluid. No smoke at higher RPM, or at start up. It will just purrrrr and runs smooth.

I found I had a leak at the heater connection so I used some epoxy from the shop let it sit 24 hrs, yet no start. I kicked pump on to notice I still had a leak around where the fuel heater comes out of the filter head I was just done at this point, we live in a mild climate. I used a 1 1/4" socket and removed the threaded nut that holds the metal piece and heater into the top of the filter head. I separated them and threw the heater out. I reused the silver metal piece to act as a spacer when I threaded the nut back in.

I went to Lowes and bought a 1/2" NPT Brass Pipe Plug and Northern Tool I bought a 1/2 NPT Tap. I tapped the filter housing, which does not need drilled before tapping as the 1/2" tap fits perfectly, and threaded the brass pipe plug in to test fit. Once fit was ensured I coated the threads in JB Weld and put it back in for final assembly and let it sit 24hrs. There are no leaks out of the filter house anymore. And yes I removed the dog hair before the filter went on along with brake clean.

I hope this helps someone.
First day I got it
You must be registered for see images attach


Almost finished making road worthy and cleaning up. Need to get all the wheel covers on it.
You must be registered for see images attach


Metal Piece and Fuel Filter when first removed, I had to break the plug off to get it out due to previous epoxy
You must be registered for see images attach


Metal Piece and Fuel Heater Separated
You must be registered for see images attach


Bottom of Filter Head with Brass Plug
You must be registered for see images attach


Top of Filter Head with Brass Plug
You must be registered for see images attach


Bottom of Filter Head with Metal Piece as Spacer and threaded nut back in for final assembly
You must be registered for see images attach


Bottom of Filter Head with Metal Piece as Spacer and threaded nut back in for final assembly
You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach
 
Last edited:

drinkypoo

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2009
Posts
259
Reaction score
1
Location
California
FWIW if you wanted a slightly less permanent plug, there's a loctite for fuel connections. Still, good to see this documented.
 

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
673
Location
West coast
To use the fuel heater as designed we have to turn on the ignition switch for 5 minutes before we start the engine. this is to allow the heater to warm up the fuel. Ford neglected to explain this is any owners hand books so what good is this heater if nobody uses it correctly. and BTW what good is a heater on top of the fuel. At least the 99 to 06 psd fuel canisters have the heater on the bottom of the can so those may work but still not sure we need any of them. We have members in the frigid colder areas running fine without fuel heaters. I believe we should remove them and plug em off. that right there does away with a fuel leak area. Next is to get rid of the filter to injection pump hard line with the olive seals in both ends. After thats done we really have a leak free fuel system for our rigs. Thanks for the great writeup and the pics too.
 

Stang65fst

Registered User
Joined
Dec 27, 2013
Posts
15
Reaction score
1
Location
Charlotte, NC
True, Loctite is a less permanent solution.

Interesting, was unaware that it was it had to be on for 5 minutes to heat the fuel.

Is there a solution out there for hard line from IP to Filter? If not I'll have to see what I can come up with.

Thank you guys for the kind words. I spent a lot of time trying to find a solution, I figured if it will help someone out in the future it was worth the pictures.
 

Dieselcrawler

Professional wrench holder
Staff member
Joined
Jun 4, 2010
Posts
5,284
Reaction score
617
Location
Quakertown Pa
instead of a plug, I but a bushing in then a pressure gauge. now I can see what fuel pressure ihave.
 

gonecrazyi

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2008
Posts
3,270
Reaction score
3
Location
florida
We used a freeze plug on the last leaker we had. Drove right in with no leaks
 

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
673
Location
West coast
Definitely tech article worthy.. Easy to follow directions with pics.. Can't be any easier than this..
 

Agnem

Using the Force!
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Posts
17,067
Reaction score
374
Location
Delta, PA
The masses have spoken. Off to the tech articles....
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
91,280
Posts
1,129,764
Members
24,098
Latest member
William88

Members online

Top