6.0 questions

dyoung14

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Buddy of mine just traded his 03 4x2 6.0 for an 07 4x4 6.0 f350 SRW

He wants me to completely service the truck front to back

He wants the following done:

Change engine oil and filter- thats no problem

Change trans fluid and filter- this i have never done to a 5R100 what should i expect? is it hard to do?

change front and rear end gear oil, this i have never done to a super duty all tho i dont figure its any different on a super duty, is there a drain plug or do i just pull the axle covers?

Next he wants a 4 inch turbo back exhuast installed- what am i getting myself into?

and finally he wants a cold air intake intalled- once again what am i getting myself into?

And what should i charge to do this job, he just told me to make him a quote? im not sure what to charge?:dunno
 

dyoung14

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I would tell him that he should do an EGR delete and head studs as well....

He wont do that, he is the dont fix it till it breaks kinda guy,

he isnt looking to make this one as powerful, he just wants it serviced and then exhuast and intake
 

dsltech83

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Axles- Just pull covers, like any other rig
Trans- drain plug in bottom of pan, change cartridge filter under rad. on pass framerail, there is a filter in the pan but its just a screen, don't ever change them at work, Use only Mercon SP fluid, other stuff makes em act funny.
Cold Air Intake-Not hard, but I always try to steer people away, its hard to beat the filtration and capacity the factory filter offers
I would reccomend to change the fuel filters as well, one on top and one on frame under drivers seat, cant change them too often, 6.0's don't like low fuel pressure.
Don't Know bout the exhaust- never done one
 

dyoung14

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Axles- Just pull covers, like any other rig
Trans- drain plug in bottom of pan, change cartridge filter under rad. on pass framerail, there is a filter in the pan but its just a screen, don't ever change them at work, Use only Mercon SP fluid, other stuff makes em act funny.
Cold Air Intake-Not hard, but I always try to steer people away, its hard to beat the filtration and capacity the factory filter offers
I would reccomend to change the fuel filters as well, one on top and one on frame under drivers seat, cant change them too often, 6.0's don't like low fuel pressure.
Don't Know bout the exhaust- never done one

On another site i was told to not try to replace the trans filter why?
 

dyoung14

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He is not gonna steer away from the aftermarket intake, he has money and he is gonna buy what he wants so im gonna have to do that, im gonna try my best to get him to do the 3.5 inch downpipe, i would really hate to get stuck doing the 4 inch
 

Silver91Hatch

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Use only MOTORCRAFT filters. THe aftermarket is making garbage for these trucks. If the PO used a junk filter you will need to buy an oil filter cap(3c3z-6766-CA). Don't change the in pan filter, change the inline tranny filter, BTW get a new o-ring when you get the filter, it doesn't come with one.

Head studs and EGR cooler delete are good ideas but heads studs require cab removal and EGR cooler delete isn't a walk in the park either, but good ideas when the time comes. I agree though, don't fix it unless its broke on those two items.
 

2 stroker

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as already said the air intake is good to 500HP about as good as you can get some of the others may dust your motor. If he is out of warranty do a coolant flush to remove the Ford Gold cxxp coolant and install some ELC coolant here is the coolant flush outlined by PGreen, Mitch over at PowerStroke.org
Flushing and cleaning the 6.0

Restore is for cleaning out any silicate goo. VC-9 is for cleaning out iron and scale. Restore Plus is the same as VC-9 and cheaper.

To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one. You can skip the block drains if you want except for the final drain before adding fresh coolant. You will just have to flush a few more times to get the block clear.

I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.

Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.

Fill the cooling system with tap water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.

Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with tap water. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times.

Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with tap water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water if you are draining the block or 5 times if not. This is to replace any tap water in the cooling system with distilled water and very important.

After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in. I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point. They are only $20 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so. Fill with 3.5 or 4 gals of ELC concentrated coolant and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out.

Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.

Hope this helps
2 stroker
 

dsltech83

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I'd just like to add that the passenger block drain can be accessed without removing the starter, use a ball end hex wrench and break loose with a pair of channellocks. Be careful where you put the hex wrench, first time you might want to disconnect the batteries(ask me how I know:sly)
 

dyoung14

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I was told on another site not to change trany fluid, is this correct why cant i?
 

Brianedwardss

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An easy way to keep exhaust gasses out of the intake is just get an $80 Billet EGR valve delete plug. Remove the EGR valve, ziptie it out of the way, clean out the chunks of black soot in the intake hole, and install the plug. Did this on a fella's truck 6 months ago and he is yet to throw a code, and his mpg and power went up. Obviously studs and a full delete is better, but this is the easy/cheapest way out.
 

snicklas

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David,

You do need to change the Trans Fluid. Just make sure you use the correct fluid. It MUST be the Mercon V Synthetic, anything else will **** it off!! I would pull the drain plug in the pan, and change the filter on the pass side frame rail right behind the bumper. Looking a the manual, it shows to change the trans filter at each 30k interval to change the transmission fluid and external filter.

One side note.... I have heard, never had it substantiated, but looking at it, the Torqshift 5 speed auto (5R110) was actually produced for Ford by Allison. But due to the agreement between GMC and Allison they could not provide Allison transmissions to Ford. Ford spec'ed out what they wanted, and a Ford transmission was built, by Allison. Again, this is just what I have heard, but have not seen it in writing. But if you look at a 5R110, it does not look like any Ford auto that I have seen...... but it looks just like a Allison.
 

dsltech83

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David,

You do need to change the Trans Fluid. Just make sure you use the correct fluid. It MUST be the Mercon V Synthetic, anything else will **** it off!!

TorqShift Transmissions use Mercon SP transmission fluid- nothing else
 

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