300 Hp!

Late_99_psd

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Alright. My brother has a 91 7.3 IDI zf-5 with a banks turbo. I would estimate my PSD at right around 300 hp, so my question is, what would it take to get to that mark on and IDI?

I VERY much realize that it is much more difficult on a IDI than on my PSD to reach this number, I'm just toying the idea around in my head.

So this is my list so far.
-Injectors (either DPS or Moose)
-Turbo (looking at an HX35 right now)
-Head studs
-Intercooler

What else would be necessary to reach this goal (cam, pump, valve springs)

BTW I normally hate these threads because they just show peoples ignorance, but I am new to IDI's so I have to ask, Thanks!
 

NMB2

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pump, injectors, a good turbo, not the turbo kits that are sold for them. big intake, big exhaust 4" on each end. Studs and intercooler. 20+psi should easily hit 300hp.
 

FordGuy100

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300hp requires roughly 135cc/1000 strokes of fuel.

Its all a guessing game at that point. Nobody with a 6.9/7.3 IDI that I know of or have seen has dyno'ed that high. Its all speculation.
 

92F350CC

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1. remove 7.3
2. insert 5.9 P-pump
3. turn a screw

I'm sorry, the IDI is an absolutely amazing engine that can pull anything and run forever, but it's very difficult and $$$ to get 300. It may be possible, Heath was getting 202 RWHP on his with Moose pump and moose misters. Maybe with an intercooler and a better turbo, he could hit it.
 

Alex S

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1. remove 7.3
2. insert 5.9 P-pump
3. turn a screw

I'm sorry, the IDI is an absolutely amazing engine that can pull anything and run forever, but it's very difficult and $$$ to get 300. It may be possible, Heath was getting 202 RWHP on his with Moose pump and moose misters. Maybe with an intercooler and a better turbo, he could hit it.

ditto!

and i highly doubt you can find another 100 HP with just the IC and turbo

can a moose pump even deliver 300 HP worth of fuel?
 

Knuckledragger

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Add propane injection too, for another few hp. These engines were specifically designed for grunt, not zoom, so don't expect smoky burnouts. The real interesting numbers for these engines are torque values. If you want to drag a house around all day, they will do it. Not fast, but all day.
 

Diesel JD

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I think 300 HP is probably attainable, how streetable it will be and how much $$ will have to be invested is the more interesting question. We know Ken did it, and way beyond that but that truck was not streetable nor intended to be. I will not believe 202 RWHP is the limit however. I think we already have one of not two or more other trucks already making 200+ here and very few people have experimented with better turbos, lowering compression, anything internal at all really. For some reason I'm more interested in cracking 300 with a 6.9 or 7.3 than a 6BT. Anyone can hit 300 with a 6BT, easy cheap, it's been done to death and it's great. Ditto the OBS PSD. This is new territory.
 

88beast

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ok heres my 300 hp plan just to give out a little secerete
7.3turbo sleeved to 6.9
turbo wrist pins on modded ceremic coated 6.9 pistons
hc1 turbo spinning like a sob (not giving that away yet)
huge ic
big ole air filter
4 inch dp off turbo
propane
supermoose or other built pump
or if the pump wont flow
2 4 cylinder p pumps with custom gear train to run one per cylinder
 

92F350CC

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yeah, heath's 204 rwhp translates to 291 at the flywheel. He's almost there. remember, he hasn't decompressed or intercooled his engine. Think of the boost he could still be stuffing in. I'm just saying that it's not easy.
 

racer30

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late_99_ psd You didn't say RWHP or crankshaft HP most people talk about RWHP from putting there truck on a wheel dyno. Then there are guys like me that think in crankshaft HP Because most race engines are sold with a dyno card with info about the tune up. so thats what i am used to thinking. there is some debate over mathmatical calculations for drive train, gear ratio, drive train weight and such. then there is the synthetic lube debate. thats why I like a engine dyno. bolt her in and run the **** out of it. tweek it, run it again. I have never ran a car on a chassis dyno but it basicly is the same thing you just dont get the same numbers. just my 3 cents. 300 rwhp would be expensive, lower compression, bigger turbo. head studs would be a must, injectors, pump and intercooler and a new cam.... I have been working with a camshaft grinder hear in WA to come up with a performance Turbo specific cam profile that will wake up the power in the IDI . I have some good results on a computer dyno and I am in the final stages of testing, soon I will have the profile reground on a cam and fit it into a engine. I will need to calculate the new pushrod length and check piston clearance before I make the new profile public. All my testing has been done on a sim so I wont be happy untill I see it fit and clearance tested myself. I hope this might be another key to unlocking the hidden power in this engine.
 
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Late_99_psd

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I think 300 HP is probably attainable, how streetable it will be and how much $$ will have to be invested is the more interesting question.... For some reason I'm more interested in cracking 300 with a 6.9 or 7.3 than a 6BT. Anyone can hit 300 with a 6BT, easy cheap, it's been done to death and it's great. Ditto the OBS PSD. This is new territory.

^^^^^ I agree. Making 300 hp with an IDI means much more then making 500 hp with a cummins. Don't get me wrong, fianancialy it makes sence, but I love a challange!

I was looking for 300 RWHP.:sly I know that it would be difficult, and expensive.

Where could you get lower compression pistons? I know this wouldn't work but could you put PSD pistons in? I'm guessing the mexican hat design of the PSD pistons would probably not work but IDK
 

hesutton

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The biggest issuse is fuel and air. Getting the DB2 to put out that kind of fuel will be a bit harder than finding a turbo to support it. Plus you'll likely need larger injection lines as well. The super Moose is close in fuel at 120cc, but I don't think that will be enough for 300 at the wheels.


Again, it's really a guessing game as it's not been done. Why not? There is not anyone really supporting these in the diesel aftermarket with parts or R&D.

Heath
 
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Darrin Tosh

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Here are my Rear wheel dyno numbers, Just a stock pump, turned up, big intake and Exhaust, with and without propane.

I Dynoed Big Ed today, here are the results..


First pull, no LPG
HP 183.15 Torque 325.45

2nd and 3rd pull with LPG

HP 205.35 Torque 362.64
HP 205.51 Torque 361.55

So 22.96 increase in HP
and 37.19 increase in Torque.

There has been a lot of these "I want 300HP out of my IDI" threads but they all seem to fizzle and die. I have yet to see anyone actually build it, put it on a dyno and show numbers. Let alone, make it work in the real world.

But I will watch this one as well and see what happens,....

Also, Don't buy any DPS Stuff,..Stick with the Moose products! (long damn story,..)

1. remove 7.3
2. insert 5.9 P-pump
3. turn a screw

LOL
Worked for me,...
 

icanfixall

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Add porting the heads enough to clean up all the mess in them. Actually the exhaust port has an area thats very important. Its the curve just after the valve. You need to smooth out that right angle cruve to a smoother flowing graduale curve. Its kinda tricky trying to explain it here. It also requires a special type of burr to reach in and grind on this back side slope. In Mels many pictures he has a head thats been cut down by typ4 so all the ports are shown and how they flow thru the heads. Very good items to look at too. Mahle offers a low compression piston. What they do is machine the wrist pin 10 thousands higher up in the piston. That drops the piston that much in the cylinder. Then you can mill off 15 thousands. Not any more or you may end up burning the top ring because its too close to the fire. These na and turbo pistons are all the same dome thicknes at around .560 to .580 so they have the meat to hold up to what we throw at them. Now if the block is aligne honed or bored so the main webs are true to the crank you will reduce internal drag. Thats wasted hp that is esy to get back. also decking the block tures up the height so all the pistons are the same height. That evens out the power produced in each cylinder. Boreing the sleeves straight and square to the crank frees up more lost hp due to drag and internal scuffing. This machine work used to be called blueprinting an engine.... That term kinda fell off the wagon years ago. Just getting everything true so its not dragging while its spinning increases the hp possible in any engines. No real reason to create an intake manifold. When your running a turbo you have and endless air supply built up on the intake valves at all times. Lets say you boost to 18 lbs. Every time that intake valve opens 18 lbs of air plus what was normally there is sucked and forced into the cylinder. As the piston reaches the bottom of the intake stroke it closes. Now all the extra air starts to compress from about 4.110 inches into around 42 thousands in the area between the piston and the flat head. We don't have compression areas in these heads. All this stroke creates one hell of a lot of bang when the air that been heated up from just the compressing of it.... Inject enough diesel and off you go for another round. Find a really good balancing shop and have the rotating parts from the dampner to the flywheel or flexplate balanced. Make sure each piston is at least 1/4 to 1/3 gram in weight form each other. I know we only trun these engines up around 3500 rpm but some like to push that to 4500rpm. It can be done but for how long. These rods and pistons are big and heavy.... Finally the psd pistons will fit but they will not work because of the "mexican hat" design. Also the psd rods actually are the same as what we use but they are arouns 130 too wide at the bottom ends. We could grind down both sides equally but its cheaper and easier just to buy an idi turbo set of rods. Ford and International still offer them. So did a shop called Diesel Direct in Florida. Around 4 years ago they told me they had two pallets full of them and the cost was $42.00 each.... No core charge either. So I bought some....:angel: Everyone knows how much I like spare parts at a cheap price..... I'm always a buyer when I can get spares at a deal I feel is worth sitting on my shelf for a few years. Parts like these are not going to be around forever. So I have a "few spare" of what I feel are important items....:angel:
 
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